86 f250 doesn't energize the starter relay. Suspect the ignition switch. The ignition lock has worked with no key for several years. Now works to start the truck if the relay is jumpered. (glow plugs work etc, just doesn't engage starter)
Given that the lock has quit needing a key, I suspect other stuff not working properly. I have a complete second steering column with switches and keyed lock for parts. I have the steering wheel off, should I replace the ignition lock and switch? How to remove the lock?

 

The lock itself probably isn't the problem, but if you want to replace it to be able to have the key lock function, that would be worthwhile. I suspect that the ignition switch itself has failed or is out of adjustment. It is actually lower on the column than the ignition lock. It is topside below the dash, held on by two screws.

From Autozone.com:
With Key

1. Disconnect the battery ground.

2. On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.

3. Remove the trim shroud halves.

4. Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.

5. Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON.

6. Place a 1 / 8 in. wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.

7. When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the flange casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.

8. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

 

Thanks for the input. I suspect that you are right. The switch itself is probably the culprit. I will drop the column and swap the switch and advise. I checked the casting around the ignition lock and have not found the 1/8" hole to release the lock. Will double check, but is there another alternative on the 86 F250?
Thanks,
Loren

 

Welcome to the site.

 

Thanks Tony, this is a great format that I will recommend to others!
Regards,
Loren

 

You're welcome.This is a great place to hang out.

 

Thanks for the advice. This was a bit interesting and perhaps surprising. The switch turned out to be fine. The culprit was a bad wire between the entry point of the harness into the cab (just under the glove box) and the switch. I didn't pull the harness out to see the bad portion of the wire, but proved this theory by applying voltage to the connector that normally is connected to the starter relay and then finding voltage on the wire as it entered the cab as mentioned, but found none at the wire as it connected the switch plug. Splicing a wire in to route around the bad section,.solved the problem.

 

That would definitely do it. My truck likes to occasionally shut off the injection pump. Hotwire it and it is fine when I disconnect the wire. The 92 has started pulling the same trick...