In-Tank Mods....
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Thanks Andrew,
Looks like I will drive it around for today, and see if it clears up.. If not, it looks like I will be taking the bed off this time, because dropping the tank was a pain in the @$$...
The kit comes with everything you need for pre-pump... if you have wetness on your lines from the pump to the engine then you might want to by some extra fuel line and replace all those fittings too.
Here is a link:
Diesel Innovations - Products
Looks like I will drive it around for today, and see if it clears up.. If not, it looks like I will be taking the bed off this time, because dropping the tank was a pain in the @$$...
Not trying to hijack... Does the kit come with new clamps for the fuel line after the in-line fuel pump? Mine has those junk quick connects and they appear to be wet. I want to do the in-tank mods, but want to eliminate all of those junk quick connects in the process.
Here is a link:
Diesel Innovations - Products
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem, NC
I used the rubber hose that was already attached to the stainless line and just cut it and added my in-line filter there..... Could that be where I am getting my air?? the original rubber hose that was on the line was VERY VERY tight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,392
Likes: 0
From: NW Arkansas
I looked at it as why not.. I mean that line has been on for thousands of miles and is all plastic-y (sp??)... I would rather replace it with a new line and hose clamps then I know i'm not getting any air in through there
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I guess I'm not clear on what you did. You should replace the entire steel line from pump to tank with the supplied rubber fuel line. That's where the air gets in.
The other source is the mixing chamber where bubbly fuel returning from the fuel bowl gets sucked right back into the pump. Also, the aux fuel pickup (duck-bill) on the side of the umbrella. That's why the return is extended away from the the pickup and the aux pick-up is plugged off with piece of fuel line that gets shoved in there.
EDIT: Here's what my pre-pump filter looks like:
The other source is the mixing chamber where bubbly fuel returning from the fuel bowl gets sucked right back into the pump. Also, the aux fuel pickup (duck-bill) on the side of the umbrella. That's why the return is extended away from the the pickup and the aux pick-up is plugged off with piece of fuel line that gets shoved in there.
EDIT: Here's what my pre-pump filter looks like:
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,392
Likes: 0
From: NW Arkansas
I guess I'm not clear on what you did. You should replace the entire steel line from pump to tank with the supplied rubber fuel line. That's where the air gets in.
The other source is the mixing chamber where bubbly fuel returning from the fuel bowl gets sucked right back into the pump. Also, the aux fuel pickup (duck-bill) on the side of the umbrella. That's why the return is extended away from the the pickup and the aux pick-up is plugged off with piece of fuel line that gets shoved in there.
The other source is the mixing chamber where bubbly fuel returning from the fuel bowl gets sucked right back into the pump. Also, the aux fuel pickup (duck-bill) on the side of the umbrella. That's why the return is extended away from the the pickup and the aux pick-up is plugged off with piece of fuel line that gets shoved in there.
http://67.19.132.3/dieselinnovations...k-pump-kit.pdf
It does not replace the SS piece of fuel line. It removes the white mixing chamber and you drill a hole in the black pickup foot and put in a piece of SS tube and clamp it all together.
I did notice it quiet down a bit. I'm doing a RR soon so i'm not to concerned about it..
I will replace it all soon enough. But I fully understand what you mean. Truth be told if I have known what I paid $60.50 shipped I would not have bought it. You get seriously $20 worth of parts.. if that..
But I had no idea what was included so i'm not that upset.. however my other 2 7.3's will have homemade kits...
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,392
Likes: 0
From: NW Arkansas
I guess I'm not clear on what you did. You should replace the entire steel line from pump to tank with the supplied rubber fuel line. That's where the air gets in.
The other source is the mixing chamber where bubbly fuel returning from the fuel bowl gets sucked right back into the pump. Also, the aux fuel pickup (duck-bill) on the side of the umbrella. That's why the return is extended away from the the pickup and the aux pick-up is plugged off with piece of fuel line that gets shoved in there.
EDIT: Here's what my pre-pump filter looks like:
The other source is the mixing chamber where bubbly fuel returning from the fuel bowl gets sucked right back into the pump. Also, the aux fuel pickup (duck-bill) on the side of the umbrella. That's why the return is extended away from the the pickup and the aux pick-up is plugged off with piece of fuel line that gets shoved in there.
EDIT: Here's what my pre-pump filter looks like:
Props to a man who is not afraid to utilize zip-ties! Like a Boss!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
hhmmm... I doesn't get rid of the quick-disconnects in the steel line?? That's where a lot of the air gets in!
EDIT: LOL -- I have quite a few under there!!
EDIT: LOL -- I have quite a few under there!!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,392
Likes: 0
From: NW Arkansas
As a guy who loves marketing I will tell you why it is what it is.
It is an "In-Tank Kit", this is why you get the stuff to do just what's inside the tank.
It wouldn't be that difficult to get some hose and remove the SS line and replace it with a new piece. Heck you could request it from your company of choice.
Anyone with an ITP kit care to chime in as to if the ITP kit replaces the SS line??
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Yes it does. That's the kit I used. Without the filter.
Here's link to it (with complete instructions linked off the page):
http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php/products/73L_TankKit
Here's link to it (with complete instructions linked off the page):
http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php/products/73L_TankKit
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Yes it does. That's the kit I used. Without the filter.
Here's link to it (with complete instructions linked off the page):
ITP 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit
Here's link to it (with complete instructions linked off the page):
ITP 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit
The whole idea behind is that the quick connects are great when they are pressurized (AFTER the pump), but suck (literally) when put under suction (vacuum), which is what is happening from the tank to the pump. This kit gets rid of anywhere that air can get sucked into the line up to the pump (in-tank pickup and fuel line connections). I just bagged and taped off my lines in place (in case I need them) and installed the ITP setup. It's been working like a champ and have had no leakage after almost 2 years and countless off-roading/camping adventures. I would highly recommend it, plus Dennis is a really good guy and sells top-notch products to boot.
Which reminds me, it's about time to change the pre-pump filter...
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
The DI kit uses the SS tube as part of the line you remove the existing lines that connect to it and then use the supplied hose along with the SS tube. It still gets rid of the quick connects. Personally, when I installed the DI kit on my truck I didn't like that it used the existing SS line, so I just used a piece of 3/8" hose and ran it like the ITP kit does, it's much easier and quicker to do it that way anyway. The DI kit also does not modify the return inside the tank like the ITP kit does. If I had to do it over again, I would have gone with the ITP kit.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
As a guy who loves marketing I will tell you why it is what it is.
It is an "In-Tank Kit", this is why you get the stuff to do just what's inside the tank.
It wouldn't be that difficult to get some hose and remove the SS line and replace it with a new piece. Heck you could request it from your company of choice.
It is an "In-Tank Kit", this is why you get the stuff to do just what's inside the tank.
It wouldn't be that difficult to get some hose and remove the SS line and replace it with a new piece. Heck you could request it from your company of choice.
I guess I think getting rid of all those Ford connections to eliminate all possibilities of air intrusion and leaks is the way to go. I understand you can go out and get more hose/line and clamps. You could probably do that for the entire job too. The kit is pure convenience and from everything I've read, high quality.
Is rubber fuel hose the way to go instead of using a hard SS line?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
This one isn't convenience -- that's the Harpoon which allows a complete fill-up to the neck. This one (Hutch) is to keep air out of the fuel system. Think about what's happening here: You're sucking air into the system, pre-pump, sending it into the fuel bowl and eventually to the heads, if it makes it that far. Any air returned gets pushed back down the return line, but it's fed into the mixing chamber in the tank. That air is sucked right back up into the system. Then, then the tank gets low, it can suck even more air. I wouldn't be surprised if the truck isn't running on foam, when the tank gets low. Fixing the aerated fuel problem I would think helps the truck run better, and keeps the injectors quieter and happier, so they live a longer life. More than convenience, IMHO. 