Bad Injectors?
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Western PA
Bad Injectors?
I went for a drive last week in my new to me 97 Powerstroke that I just got a few weeks ago. Manual Transmission, 270K, 7.3. When I was driving it started knocking and I was losing power...I think its my injectors, I think they would have to have been replaced before because I don't think they would last anywhere near 270K. I don't think it's a rod knock because when I turn it over it doesn't knock. I think it would be best to just replace all the injectors, not just one bad one, what do you guys think about that? I'm low on cash right now so that doesn't help...What injectors would you guys recommend for me to buy and where to buy them?
I found these on ebay but I have heard of people having bad experiences buying from this place...Ford 7.3 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Fuel Injector:eBay Motors (item 170402808426 end time Nov-14-09 06:18:00 PST)
I found these on ebay but I have heard of people having bad experiences buying from this place...Ford 7.3 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Fuel Injector:eBay Motors (item 170402808426 end time Nov-14-09 06:18:00 PST)
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
First welcome to FTE.
By no means am I a Injector expert. That being said I doubt the injectors are the cause of your knock. When you said you took it for a drive did it just happen or has always been there? Loss of power could many thing, including fuel pressure.
Do you know how to check fuel pressure?
Give it some time and the experts will chime in and help out. My suggestion right now is not purchase anything immediately and also give a more detailed description on your observations. Such as does the knock/power loss occur only when engine is up to temp or also when cold.
By no means am I a Injector expert. That being said I doubt the injectors are the cause of your knock. When you said you took it for a drive did it just happen or has always been there? Loss of power could many thing, including fuel pressure.
Do you know how to check fuel pressure?
Give it some time and the experts will chime in and help out. My suggestion right now is not purchase anything immediately and also give a more detailed description on your observations. Such as does the knock/power loss occur only when engine is up to temp or also when cold.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Western PA
The loss of power hasn't always been there. It happened very suddenly when I was cruising along at 40MPH in 4th gear 1800RPM it started making noises (knocking). The RPM's dropped so I downshifted into 3rd, did the same thing so I went into 2nd and it stalled. I could not get it to start again so I had to get it towed home. When it did this the engine was warmed up and I had normal oil pressure. I didn't check fuel pressure yet, where is the test port to plug my gauge into?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Vacaville, Ca
The CPS is quite possibly the problem. This is a 30.00 item from Napa and it takes 10 minutes to replace. Watch the tach to see if it moves while the engine is cranking.
There is a schraeder valve (Tire valve stem) on the side of the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) which is on the drivers side near the front of the engine. There may be a valve cap on it. Using a tire gauge, check the pressure at the schraeder valve while someone else is cranking the engine over.
The oil pressure gauge inside the dash only reads the Low Oil Pressure of the engine internals, not the High Pressure Oil Pump which powers the injectors.
There is a schraeder valve (Tire valve stem) on the side of the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) which is on the drivers side near the front of the engine. There may be a valve cap on it. Using a tire gauge, check the pressure at the schraeder valve while someone else is cranking the engine over.
The oil pressure gauge inside the dash only reads the Low Oil Pressure of the engine internals, not the High Pressure Oil Pump which powers the injectors.
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From: Western PA
One time the tach was moving when I tried to start it. I'll replace that and see what happens, I found out my GPR was bad too so I'll be picking up one of those too and I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks again guys!
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From: Michigan
That gauge isn't a gauge at all. it only tells you that you either have oil pressure or you have no oil pressure. a glorified idiot light IMO. don't believe it? put a volt meter on the sending unit. I was kind of bummed out to find this out. it would be so cool if someone was manufacturing a replacement cluster that really told you exactly what your oil pressure was by using pressure transducers. and what temperature the engine coolant was and actual battery voltage even gallons of fuel left. yeah the pillar gauges are cool but I like the stock look of my dash.
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Crazy,
DO NOT BUY FROM PENSACOLA DIESEL!!!!!!!
It's best to address/replace all injectors if you have to go that route. You won't be doing yourself any favors by only doing one or 2 if they are an issue as the rest will drop one by one too.
Knocking and sudden loss of power could also be a bent push rod or broken rocker arm. I'd pull a valve cover and inspect them and see if anything jumps out at you.
See if you can get it started and check fuel psi just to make sure it's not the pump. I'd probably do this before removing vc.
I have never heard of a CPS causing a knocking sound when it goes out. It just kills the truck, but anything is poosible. Also, hang on to the old CPS until you know for sure what the problem was. The oem CPS is a much better product than any replacement you can buy now. If it turns out to be the CPS, go buy one or 2 spares as they can last an hour, a week, or 5 years. The new ones are junk, you just never know what to expect with them.
DO NOT BUY FROM PENSACOLA DIESEL!!!!!!!
It's best to address/replace all injectors if you have to go that route. You won't be doing yourself any favors by only doing one or 2 if they are an issue as the rest will drop one by one too.
Knocking and sudden loss of power could also be a bent push rod or broken rocker arm. I'd pull a valve cover and inspect them and see if anything jumps out at you.
See if you can get it started and check fuel psi just to make sure it's not the pump. I'd probably do this before removing vc.
I have never heard of a CPS causing a knocking sound when it goes out. It just kills the truck, but anything is poosible. Also, hang on to the old CPS until you know for sure what the problem was. The oem CPS is a much better product than any replacement you can buy now. If it turns out to be the CPS, go buy one or 2 spares as they can last an hour, a week, or 5 years. The new ones are junk, you just never know what to expect with them.
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