Body Molding
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 648
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From: Saskatoon
if it's a clip on, find if there's a bolt at either end and remove it, then usie a trim tool to snap it off the rest of the clips.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 690
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From: Madison Ohio
Yes my Project truck was a custom and I picked up a front clip that was a lot cleaner ( Less NE Ohio Orange ) then my original. However the clip was off a two tone truck and theirs the molding strip on the bottom. I need to remove so I can clean up some small rust areas and start prep for paint. I'll see if I can post a few Pictures a little later on tonight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,066
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From: Rogue River, Oregon
I've had good results using a heat gun. It doesn't ruin the molding and all the stickie residue comes off. If you're gonna re-use the molding you can buy that 3M double-sided tape in rolls and it's better than OEM stuff.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 690
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From: Madison Ohio
Dumb Question but have to ask.... Do you heat the backside of the body or just heat the molding its self? I have a pretty powerful heat gun.... It will melt lead!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Rogue River, Oregon
Here's my method: use a putty knife and GENTLY wiggle it under the trim piece and put a little pressure on it while you put a little heat on the trim, aiming kinda where the trim meets paint. If you remember nothing else, remember this, if you don't keep the heat gun moving, you will not only ruin the trim, but you can remove paint. Anyway, it really is simple, keep the gun moving, keep pressre on the trim and you'll feel the adhesive "give" and the trim will practically fall off. I took all the trim off a brand new truck I had in under 20 minutes and could've re-used all of it except the first piece that I ruined by keeping the heat on too long. Having said that, start with a small, inconspicous piece and go from there. Hope this helps! Jim
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I use a old , long serrated kitchen knife , holding both ends away from the paint surface , gently saw back & forth (carefully) tipping the edge of the knife slightly away from the finish . The reason I asked if you are going to re finish it , was I was concerned about the W D 40 silicone contamination , if you use it ,make sure you get it all off before prepping for refinish ...
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 648
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From: Saskatoon
I use a old , long serrated kitchen knife , holding both ends away from the paint surface , gently saw back & forth (carefully) tipping the edge of the knife slightly away from the finish . The reason I asked if you are going to re finish it , was I was concerned about the W D 40 silicone contamination , if you use it ,make sure you get it all off before prepping for refinish ...
I'd use WD-40 way before heat or a knife. It won't scratch, won't cut and won't warp - either the metal OR the moulding.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Saskatoon
I was gonna mention that in my post above. WD-40 is better than 3M's stuff as well!!
Here's a woodgrain decal - 40 years old. I was going to use 3M's releaser on...used WD-40 instead. Hardly needed the scraper!
Here's a woodgrain decal - 40 years old. I was going to use 3M's releaser on...used WD-40 instead. Hardly needed the scraper!
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