8.8 Axle
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
Considering the track width for an Explorer 8.8 is approximately 58.5 inches and the same measurement for the Bronco is nearly 64.5 inches it may be possible. This information should be out there somewhere though, have you checked with the guys in the Explorer forum? I'd be willing to bet someone has considered a full-width 8.8 with a few more splines to slap under their Expy. at some point and did this research.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
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I guess I'll get one from a Bronco/150. Would they be all the same? Again, I dont care about bolt pattern.
Yea Kem, One of my flanges cracked on the end of the axle. The full float kit puts a lot of stress on the flange. I had the same kit on my old Bronco for ten years and never had a problem. I did alot more hard wheeling then too. This flange didnt look like it was welded good. I welded it and its holding. But, I'm feeling like I got an axle built on a monday. I want to get disc in the back too.
Yea Kem, One of my flanges cracked on the end of the axle. The full float kit puts a lot of stress on the flange. I had the same kit on my old Bronco for ten years and never had a problem. I did alot more hard wheeling then too. This flange didnt look like it was welded good. I welded it and its holding. But, I'm feeling like I got an axle built on a monday. I want to get disc in the back too.
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I got a lot of money in this. Gears, locker, full float. Also, does the sterling have five lug? One option I have is to weld the spindles instead of bolt to the flanges. I may do that, but had I done that to my first truck, I couldnt have swaped to this one.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend,OR
you can run 9" outers and then run custom shafts that are 5 lug. i friend of mine's F150 is setup just like this.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Phoenix, AZ
I have an extra one
Before I decided to just rebuild my original diff on my '94 Bronco, I bought one from some guy off of his '90 Bronco to build and just swap. He said that he went to a 9", so he didn't need it anymore, and sold it to me for $150. I don't know anything about it, so I'll have to pop the cover to get the gear ratio for you, if you're interested. It doesn't have a tag and someone went nuts with gasket maker, so it's defeinitely been opened. It could have a locker, for all I know.
It's complete, has brakes (drum to drum), with speed sensor and e-brake cables. You could probably bolt it right up and drive it, assuming it doesn't need to be rebuilt.
I just want my $150 back! Anyone in Phoenix, AZ looking for one?
My other idea (if my wife would go for it) is to completely rebuild it and sell it. I mean, I have all the tools, equipment, and knowledge from rebuilding the one in my Bronco. I just wonder if it would be worth the effort and money for what I could get for it. How much could I get for a freshly-rebuilt 8.8?!?
-Derek
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I dont think it would practical to rebuild it on spec and try to sell. Most people would want to change gears and you wouldnt know what they want. On stock trucks, the 8.8 is indestructable. Even with moderatly oversize tires they are pretty stout. So there arnt going to be many people looking for a rebuild. I would buy it if you were close. But there fairly common here and I'm just going to swap my stuff in.
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 38
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From: Phoenix, AZ
I dont think it would practical to rebuild it on spec and try to sell. Most people would want to change gears and you wouldnt know what they want. On stock trucks, the 8.8 is indestructable. Even with moderatly oversize tires they are pretty stout. So there arnt going to be many people looking for a rebuild. I would buy it if you were close. But there fairly common here and I'm just going to swap my stuff in.
As for stout, the reason I rebuilt mine is because the pinion cross-shaft lock-pin fell out, which let the cross-shaft fall out, which wedged on the housing and snapped, letting my right wheel start to walk away from the truck. I think that having a lock pin as the only thing to keep your alxes in is a stupid idea. Each axle should have a snap ring, or something to hold the C-clip on the end. It killed the carrier and cut a deep groove in the cover, but I couldn't even see where it hit the housing! ...Definitely a tough housing.
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Sorry to hear that. I thought they should safty wire that lockpin. I dont like relying on locktight. That is one of the good things the full float kit did. Elinonate the c-clips. But they usally hold up in stock applications.
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