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Ignition Module Q's

Old Nov 5, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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Question Ignition Module Q's

Im posting this thread as I dont want to hijack another about a similar issue. As I stated in the other thread, I have swapped ignition modules cuz the old Duraspark unit finally gave out. So I pull out my spare NAPA (Echelin) brand that I've had for quite awhile and plug it in. Boom bada bing........problem solved, right??
Well....almost. Yes it runs and starts, doesn't shut itself off, but it doesn't feel the same. Just doesn't seem to have the extra oomph it had and I've also noticed its abit more cold blooded in the morning as it seems to take a little more throttle-age to keep it running. So....is it possible there is an internal difference between the two brands??
IIRC.....I found the Duraspark box at the local Pull-A-Part some years ago. I had the NAPA box from when I was having my ignition problems on a road trip up in the mounains on a cold wet November weekend looking for a %#$@
X-mas tree, I remember shelling out $60 for the module. So maybe a more up-to-date Ignition mod. is in my future?????
 
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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I just priced a module at Napa for $26, then they had another brand for $64. I never heard of anyone noticing a performance difference in the modules before as you mention, but I guess it is possible(?). I know my spare is going behind the seat so I don't get stranded.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 10:44 PM
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Thanks. My local NAPA sold me one for $26 plus tax. I finally got the new one plugged in last Sunday and I'm happy to report all is better. No weird starting issues, so there was some sort of internal difference. I'm throwing the old one in the trash and getting a new one to keep as a spare.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 11:57 PM
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Get a genuine MOTORCRAFT and you'll never look back, seriously.

Price them at Rock Auto before heading to the local dealer.



Josh
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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I bought an aftermarket unit from CarQuest and the plug locking fingers broke off the first time it was plugged intl the wiring harness. It otherwise worked fine. The plastic connectors were too Brittle.

Shawn
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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Bullitt390,Thanks for the info on Rock Auto. I know better than to go to the dealer unless I absolutely have to. I've seen other members refer to it as the
"stealer" haha Nice pic of your inner fender and module.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Most autoparts stores sell ignition modules that are made in China and are unmitigated CRAP!

They oughtta call them miracle modules, because...if they last a year, it's a miracle.

Your best bet is to install a genuine Motorcraft DuraSpark ignition module.

There is a colored plastic square on the module just above where the wires fed out which is an EZ way to ID which is which.

1977/79: There are THREE different DuraSpark ignition modules.

The most common is the following:

1U2Z12A199AA .. DuraSpark Ignition Module - BLUE (Motorcraft DY893) / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $130.60 // FTE sponsor Y2KFORDPARTS.COM price: $70.52.

1U2Z12199AA replaced D9VZ12A199A & D6AZ12A199A / Marked: D6AE-12A199-A1A or -AIB, or -A2A, or -A2B / Marked: D8VE-12A199-A1B, or -A1C, or -A2B, or -A2C.

This module was used from 1976 into the 1990's, except on some 1977/79 vehicles sold new in CA.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CA vehicles only

D7AZ12A199A .. DuraSpark Ignition Module - RED (Motorcraft DY204) / Obsolete / Used on some 1977/79 CA vehicles only.

D9AZ12A199B .. DuraSpark Ignition Module - BROWN (Motorcraft DY249A) / Obsolete / Used on some 1979 CA vehicles only.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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Thanks for the info Bill, when mine dies, I'll throw my freebie on and make sure I get a good one because I know me and aggravation dont get along very well!!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 09:58 PM
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I don't know why you guys don't get rid of the box and just use a normal distributer problem solved forever.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 90taz
I don't know why you guys don't get rid of the box and just use a normal distributer problem solved forever.
What is a NORMAL distributor? I had more problems running a Mallory Unilite than I ever had with the Durspark. At the very least, if a module or pick-up goes out and you're in the middle of tin-buck-too it shouldn't be a big deal to pick up something, even a Chinese made unit, to get from point A to point B.

Try that with a Mallory, MSD or Accell. I see just as many horror stories on those techno-wonders as I do with the Duraspark.

On top of all that, most of the problems are attributed to TWO things: An ORIGINAL module or pick-up gives up the ghost (which were to known to be defective) or an aftermarket POS quits.

You don't hear too many problems once the defective junk is replaced with quality Motorcraft parts.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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before i rebuilt my motor i used a points distributer, back in the day that was the norm and never had problem. when i rebuilt the motor i used a unilite never touched it again.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 90taz
when i rebuilt the motor i used a unilite never touched it again.
It helps to start the engine, then it will fail.

Josh
 
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