arp head studs
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
arp head studs
I got my arp studs today and was reading the paperwork with them. It says to torque them to 85 ft lbs. but Chilton says to go in four stages, 40, 65in numbered sequence, then inline sequence to 75 twice. Do I just go in the numbered sequence once with the studs or follow the sequence in the book?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 962
Likes: 89
From: upstate ny
normally you go with what the studs say, i called arp when o got the ones for my 347 and they said go with there specs because of the way they are designed. id call them and double check just to be safe
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 94
From: So. Jersey
Torque in the sequence and values written in the book ending with the final torque value of ARP's spec.
This is where it gets crazy. You need to "untorque" in the reversal sequence and retorque them all over again IIRC 5 times. The reason for this is to pre stretch the new studs.
Learn from my mistakes as I didn't know this at first and replaced the gaskets again after a few hundred miles because the studs stretched just enough to weep pressure into the water jackets. Also I ended up torquing my studs to 106 ftlbs with no issues since.
This is where it gets crazy. You need to "untorque" in the reversal sequence and retorque them all over again IIRC 5 times. The reason for this is to pre stretch the new studs.
Learn from my mistakes as I didn't know this at first and replaced the gaskets again after a few hundred miles because the studs stretched just enough to weep pressure into the water jackets. Also I ended up torquing my studs to 106 ftlbs with no issues since.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
When you install the studs, do use the pattern in the engine manual, starting in the center of the head and working out in a circle.
Also do it in steps like the engine manual specifies.
When you read the ARP paper, torque to spec and then remove a minimum of four times.
Then on the fifth install, you are good to go.
The install and remove four times helps the nuts and stud threads wear to each other.
And I payed rather close attention to how many turns it took to get to torque each time I installed mine.
The fifth time each nut turned about 1 turn farther than it did the first time I installed them.
Be sparing with the moly assembly lube, you don't want to contaminate the head gasket or mating surfaces with lube.
I wiped the head and block surface with acetone to remove all traces of oil before I dropped the gaskets and heads on.
Also do it in steps like the engine manual specifies.
When you read the ARP paper, torque to spec and then remove a minimum of four times.
Then on the fifth install, you are good to go.
The install and remove four times helps the nuts and stud threads wear to each other.
And I payed rather close attention to how many turns it took to get to torque each time I installed mine.
The fifth time each nut turned about 1 turn farther than it did the first time I installed them.
Be sparing with the moly assembly lube, you don't want to contaminate the head gasket or mating surfaces with lube.
I wiped the head and block surface with acetone to remove all traces of oil before I dropped the gaskets and heads on.
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Cargo Master
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Marianna, Florida USA
I believe that you are collapsing the gasket and seating it. The way metallurgy works, bolts are not rigid. Nothing is totally rigid. The bolts are like real tough springs. They normally stretch. The trick is to stretch them enough to hold the gasket in place under the highest pressures possible while leaving a safety margin for possible anomalies.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Warozz the ones for the 6.9 are actually for a different application(Iforget what it is)
but are more popular and the price USED to be around 290, not sure these days.
Iirc the ones for the 7.3 were also for a different application but worked on our engines but not as high a seller were in the 500 buck range.
but are more popular and the price USED to be around 290, not sure these days.
Iirc the ones for the 7.3 were also for a different application but worked on our engines but not as high a seller were in the 500 buck range.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 2
From: Dairy, OR
Sounds like I need to search old threads for part numbers. 
If I find a turbo for a good deal I will for sure upgrade to ARP. Until then I got brand new heads that PO put on so I am good to go for a while I hope.
If I find a turbo for a good deal I will for sure upgrade to ARP. Until then I got brand new heads that PO put on so I am good to go for a while I hope.