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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 09:19 AM
  #1  
1979F350/460's Avatar
1979F350/460
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Frame coating

Hello all,

Just looking for the best suggestion to coat the frame on my truck. I see there is POR 15 and the Eastwood encapsulator. I'm going to do the frame in sections so pwdercoat is probably out.

I'm hearing mixed reviews. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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g0dl355
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I would personally go with linex.

POR15 has the most fluctuating reviews I've ever read.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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1977f150xlt's Avatar
1977f150xlt
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From: London, Ontario Canada
i suggest sandblasting the frame, then spraying it with black Epoxy Primer, its really great stuff, we did about 6 coats on my frame, and coated the entire truck with it as well, then of course we used filler gray primer on the body,

you can see the coating we used in my Youtube video, just click the link in my signature

also welcome 1979F350/460 and g0dl355, can't say i have seen either of you on here yet, so if i haven't already welcome to FTE.com

-Brent
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 10:08 AM
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Customcab
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Heck I'm cheap I guess; I strip my frames and then use (Rustolum) Black Hammer paint; shot it thru my primer gun. And if need to do any touch up; I can revert to the old rattle can version!!

Mitch
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 10:09 AM
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Behemoth
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From: Spokane, WA
Myself, I went with having the frame sandblasted, and then powdercoated. The color is called "silver vein", and I thought it was a good mild contrast to the rest of the truck being black. They say it's a 3 stage process, but I didn't get to watch it being done. Anyway, there are pictures of it in my gallery that you can snoop if you want.

I didn't consider the Line-X possibility, and for longevity, that would be a good option. You could always get it clean, it's tough as hell, and doesn't chip off. My powdercoating is good for longevity, but can be chipped......however, Buford isn't going to be abused too much for quite some time so I'm not worried about that. The only thing I'd be sweating on the Line-X is that if the coating is too thick, it could present fitment problems that you'd have to fix along the way.....(e.g. getting grommets to fit for evaporator line, shackles to slide on, etc).

Regardless, there are options!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 10:48 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Customcab
Heck I'm cheap I guess; I strip my frames and then use (Rustolum) Black Hammer paint; shot it thru my primer gun. And if need to do any touch up; I can revert to the old rattle can version!!

Mitch
What's cheap and how did it look? I'll probably be doing mine this winter as soon as I get my bed off. Can I just wire brush the frame?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 78ford351m
What's cheap and how did it look? I'll probably be doing mine this winter as soon as I get my bed off. Can I just wire brush the frame?
I would get one of those wire wheels you can attach to a drill, maybe a little naval jelly or some aircraft remover and it should take it down to bare metal really quick.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by g0dl355
I would get one of those wire wheels you can attach to a drill, maybe a little naval jelly or some aircraft remover and it should take it down to bare metal really quick.
sounds good. I can only do the rear of my truck for now as well.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 78ford351m
sounds good. I can only do the rear of my truck for now as well.
I'm in the same situation.
I want to pull the bed off and clean and paint from the cab back, but I really don't want to do that until I can upgrade to disc brakes so I can do it all at once.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #10  
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hmm. That bed is a pain to get off.... Are you painting inside the fenders and under the bed with this stuff? Wonder if that would help for rust
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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How is the bed a pain? They are very simple really...
Unplug the tail lights, undo the fuel fill (if applicable) and undo the bed bolts.

Bed can be moved by 2 guys if needed - 4 makes life easier of course. Or, you can be like me and move it by yourself with a cherry picker.

Photo is crappy - and it's a beat up dodge bed - but you get the idea
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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Right if you put it that way. Too bad the damn bed bolts seem to always need to be cut out....time consuming.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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1977f150xlt
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here is our current set up we have the front resting on the frame, to allow us to get behind the cab to paint, the back has a saw horse just in case the crane gave out!!!, we also had the chains going to the 4 corners of the bed floor bolt holes, we used ring anchor bolts, and it worked out fairly well, just be careful your crane doesn't give out, otherwise the arm will run into the tailgate, lets just say that happened, and it dinged up all the tailgate trim! luckily we came across a mint rust free/dent free tailgate, complete with the full trim package, the tailgate was put in a barn for most of the tailgates life, so it was like new! and you can see its perfect lines in the pictures,





-Brent
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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double post,
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 01:35 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 78ford351m
Right if you put it that way. Too bad the damn bed bolts seem to always need to be cut out....time consuming.
Maybe in the land of rust - but not usually here in CA. Took some bolts out of my buddies 76 F-250 yesterday and they came right out.

Still cutting them off isn't super hard and only slightly time consuming. But if you really want to get to the frame to coat/paint it - getting the bed off is the best way...
 
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