Cam selection
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
Yes, I would like to pop someone...but who? The mechanic says he mic ed the crank and rods, etc. I thought that by the looks of the bearings that some pollutant had gotten into the oil, but never found evidence in the filter, never found from where it could of come. It's a pisser!! The only thing I can think of is that I had the valve cover professionally polished, and that maybe some of the polishing compound was hidden inside, around the edges of the baffle. Now it has been washed clean...ouch!
Other possibility: During assembly one of the cam journals was found to be out of alignment, and the cam could not be put through the bearing. The machine shop 'sanded' the bearing with like 600 grit w/d sand paper. That freaked me out.
So, I'm hoping to find out what the heck went wrong when I break down the engine. Thanks for the word about your cam.
Other possibility: During assembly one of the cam journals was found to be out of alignment, and the cam could not be put through the bearing. The machine shop 'sanded' the bearing with like 600 grit w/d sand paper. That freaked me out.
So, I'm hoping to find out what the heck went wrong when I break down the engine. Thanks for the word about your cam.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 2
From: Wahpeton ND
Sanding or cutting a cam bearing is fairly common practice. Ususaly they cut a few grooves in an old cam core and use that but hand sanding works also. Normaly you would use emery cloth over 600 grid wood paper but............
I realy think that oil starvation is the cause. A cut cam bearing shouldent cause starvation of the mains and rods as they are oiled indipendently of the cam and lifters.
My theory is that there was either a bad job done on turning the mains or a clogged oil pasage. Mic the mains when you tear her down. Do you own a mic or dial caliper?
Also pull the oil galley plugs and see if they are clogged. A bore scope can sometimes be borrowed from an autozone or machine shop. Ask your friends and parts stores they may borrow you one. If not a good flashlight and some squinting will get the job done.
Lastly, I assume you used a melling HV oil pump. If everything else is in spec I would call them. They may be willing to test it. If its bad they will most likely give you a free oil pump and an appology.
Oil starvation is a heck of an issue. Did you cut open any oil filters? See if there was grit?
I realy think that oil starvation is the cause. A cut cam bearing shouldent cause starvation of the mains and rods as they are oiled indipendently of the cam and lifters.
My theory is that there was either a bad job done on turning the mains or a clogged oil pasage. Mic the mains when you tear her down. Do you own a mic or dial caliper?
Also pull the oil galley plugs and see if they are clogged. A bore scope can sometimes be borrowed from an autozone or machine shop. Ask your friends and parts stores they may borrow you one. If not a good flashlight and some squinting will get the job done.
Lastly, I assume you used a melling HV oil pump. If everything else is in spec I would call them. They may be willing to test it. If its bad they will most likely give you a free oil pump and an appology.
Oil starvation is a heck of an issue. Did you cut open any oil filters? See if there was grit?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 480
Likes: 0
From: Hudson,Michigan
I think I would really pay close attention to the crank finish and clearance on this one also.The effect of too much clearance can cause bearing failure also,and no matter how much oil you put to it,it won't make up for it.I would ask for all journals and mains to be torqued and checked with plastigage.I know you said the mechanic miked the crank and everything,but plastigage will show you what is there.The radius of the grind is also important,and,they have to be round.Taper should show up on the plastigage also,as it would be wider at one end.As to the 1 1/2 days to switch engines and the head,I would have another ride available,after all the trouble and expense you have been through,I sure as h*** would not rush to finish the job.PS check and recon the rods.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
Flipklos and Buster300, thanks for the tips. Let me see if I can address all of your concerns.
The second day of running the engine I changed the oil and filter. At that point I could not detect any problem, so the filter went in the trash, unfortunately. After the problem showed in dropping oil psi, I pulled the pan and plasti gauged a couple of the rod and mains. They were already larger than the book called for, and showed striations. (I should mention that within the first few days of driving, I noticed the smell of gas in the oil, but the level was not visibly increasing. I changed the new fuel pump, and because of that and other reasons, I bought a new Edelbrock 500. No more gas in the oil.)
Then I checked the filter. Inside it looked like someone had dashed the oil with a pepper shaker. But the flecks were soft, like babet material. There were very few hard bits of metal, and I assumed that was from the new gear drive.
After two weeks, and continued psi drop, I again pulled the pan and changed the mains and rod bearings with Clevite 77, 10 under, as was originally installed. They were all within book tolerances. While the pan was off I changed the new melling oil pump with a new hv melling pump. Inside the old pump it looked good, clean and tight. The new pump boosted the psi for a short time.
Anyway, if I find the machine work was at fault, then the machinist and I are definately going to have a talk, and he will need to compensate me. I am going to tear down the engine and find the problem. I will definately let everyone know what is up.
The new block is being bored, magna fluxed, rods reconditioned .010 under with ARP bolts, crank turned, polished, .010 under, everything balanced with new pistons, chromemoly rings, deck shaved .020. I hope I didn't miss anything.
The second day of running the engine I changed the oil and filter. At that point I could not detect any problem, so the filter went in the trash, unfortunately. After the problem showed in dropping oil psi, I pulled the pan and plasti gauged a couple of the rod and mains. They were already larger than the book called for, and showed striations. (I should mention that within the first few days of driving, I noticed the smell of gas in the oil, but the level was not visibly increasing. I changed the new fuel pump, and because of that and other reasons, I bought a new Edelbrock 500. No more gas in the oil.)
Then I checked the filter. Inside it looked like someone had dashed the oil with a pepper shaker. But the flecks were soft, like babet material. There were very few hard bits of metal, and I assumed that was from the new gear drive.
After two weeks, and continued psi drop, I again pulled the pan and changed the mains and rod bearings with Clevite 77, 10 under, as was originally installed. They were all within book tolerances. While the pan was off I changed the new melling oil pump with a new hv melling pump. Inside the old pump it looked good, clean and tight. The new pump boosted the psi for a short time.
Anyway, if I find the machine work was at fault, then the machinist and I are definately going to have a talk, and he will need to compensate me. I am going to tear down the engine and find the problem. I will definately let everyone know what is up.
The new block is being bored, magna fluxed, rods reconditioned .010 under with ARP bolts, crank turned, polished, .010 under, everything balanced with new pistons, chromemoly rings, deck shaved .020. I hope I didn't miss anything.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 774
Likes: 1
From: East Tennessee
I know the pain of engines failing prematurely. Had a twin turbo 3.0 V6 pushing slightly over 500 horsepower. It never would stay together more than a week. That's why I went to V8's and will never build anything that isn't a V8. Or, in this case, the Ford 300-6 is tough as most any V8.
At least you are starting fresh. Good luck to ya. I hope the problem from your last engine rests on the engine builder's fault.
At least you are starting fresh. Good luck to ya. I hope the problem from your last engine rests on the engine builder's fault.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,165
Likes: 375
From: Near Los Angeles
twin turbo 3.0 V6 pushing slightly over 500 horsepower
A 3.0 over 500 hp...holy cow! That must of hurt to have it fail.
I have built 3 engines myself, years ago, and with this one I thought I would hire it done since so many years had passed. Oh well, I don't know yet where the blame is to be placed.
A 3.0 over 500 hp...holy cow! That must of hurt to have it fail.
I have built 3 engines myself, years ago, and with this one I thought I would hire it done since so many years had passed. Oh well, I don't know yet where the blame is to be placed.
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