*Engine swap* few questions
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Junior User
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*Engine swap* few questions
Driving my truck (92' F250 4x4 5.8l) down the freeway today and heard a thump in the motor when i got on the gas and then lost oil pressure.
0 oil pressure at idle, makes pressure at 2500rpm, and the motor developed a knock in the bottom end, must have spun a bearing or something.
Just wondering any tips on the swap, gona put another 351w in it.
Found a long block for an 86 with 0 miles, will it work? using my intake and injectors/rail etc.
thanks
0 oil pressure at idle, makes pressure at 2500rpm, and the motor developed a knock in the bottom end, must have spun a bearing or something.
Just wondering any tips on the swap, gona put another 351w in it.
Found a long block for an 86 with 0 miles, will it work? using my intake and injectors/rail etc.
thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver BC Canada
I just did this with my 94 in the spring. My longblock was out of a 95 Bronco. My swap went very smoothly. The biggest issue was lining up the motor and tranny, but that was because we didn't have an adjustable chain levelled on the cherry picker. The biggest thing from my experience is to do everything to the motor before you put it in. I used a sharpie and masking tape and labelled evry wire, hose, and tube being disconnected. I also used ziplock bags for the bolts and then taped them to the components. Worked out well.
The only difference that I am aware of with the older 5.8 is that the stock cams they had were wimpier than the cams in the later motors.
Good luck.
The only difference that I am aware of with the older 5.8 is that the stock cams they had were wimpier than the cams in the later motors.
Good luck.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
True unless the '86 is a 4bbl 351HO then it has a better cam than the later motors.. basically a flat tappet version of the 5.0HO roller cam.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2009
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Yes it will jus slide out if you unbolt only the bellhousing an starter, but the installation I would install the torque converter to the tranny an then when installing motor you only have to line up the 4 bolts in torque converter as well as the bellhousing, Less chance of damaging the torque converter.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2009
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Yes you have to leave bellhousing on tranny, Yes the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel via 4 nuts. Once you remove the starter, all bellhousing bolt, and any other engine stuff on top plus the mount bolts, then you can remove it, Hope that was a lil more detailed.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
The bellhousing does not detatch from the trans on these automatics so there is only one choice. Better to leave the TC in the trans too, less chance of the seal or pump being damaged.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,724
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From: Vancouver BC Canada
There is an inspection cover at the bottom where the block meets the bellhousing. Remove it (2 or 4 bolts, I think) then remove the flexplate to torque converter bolts. I think I put a ratchet on the crank to turn the the flexplate so that each bolt was accessable.
Two spots that were awkward were the fuel lines and the air injection tube. We had a really hard time disconnecting the fuel lines from the motor. I ended up cutting them on the motor side of the connection and worked the piece out after the motor was out of the engine bay as its hard to get back there. There is a fuel line disconnect tool for this.
There is a metal air injection tube that runs from the back of the motor to the exhaust y-pipe. We had a really hard time getting it to disconnect at the y-pipe and ended up removing the entire y-pipe.
I'm game but not terribly skilled or bright. Took 3 full (8 hour) days working in a garage. One day to pull motor, one day to put back in and line, one day to hook everything back up.
Good luck.
Two spots that were awkward were the fuel lines and the air injection tube. We had a really hard time disconnecting the fuel lines from the motor. I ended up cutting them on the motor side of the connection and worked the piece out after the motor was out of the engine bay as its hard to get back there. There is a fuel line disconnect tool for this.
There is a metal air injection tube that runs from the back of the motor to the exhaust y-pipe. We had a really hard time getting it to disconnect at the y-pipe and ended up removing the entire y-pipe.
I'm game but not terribly skilled or bright. Took 3 full (8 hour) days working in a garage. One day to pull motor, one day to put back in and line, one day to hook everything back up.
Good luck.
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Junior User
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i found another one, out of a 78 thunderbird, goin to look at it tommarow and here it run as its still in the car.
Think i can make it work with my intake, and my timing cover??
any other issues im gona run into?
Think i can make it work with my intake, and my timing cover??
any other issues im gona run into?
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Junior User
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Motor Build
Got a motor, its out of an 89' looks good on the outside, guy said it had 60,000 miles on it.
im gona pull the heads and check the cylinder walls and bore and pistons and what not.
im gona get a cam, timing chain and lifters and water pump.
Just wondering what I can all check to make sure its gona be reliable while i have it on the stand.
Any ideas on a good cam?
i was thinking the comp cam Extreme Energy XE262H which is 262/270 (@50 218/224) .493 .500 lift 110 lobe sep.
would this be good for a everyday driver.
Ill get some pics up tomorrow.
Thanks again for all the help
im gona pull the heads and check the cylinder walls and bore and pistons and what not.
im gona get a cam, timing chain and lifters and water pump.
Just wondering what I can all check to make sure its gona be reliable while i have it on the stand.
Any ideas on a good cam?
i was thinking the comp cam Extreme Energy XE262H which is 262/270 (@50 218/224) .493 .500 lift 110 lobe sep.
would this be good for a everyday driver.
Ill get some pics up tomorrow.
Thanks again for all the help