Someone on here the other day told me i should install an electric fuel pump on my truck to help with the starting issues...I want to do this in the next coming weeks but need a little more information on the best way to do this...here are some ?'s i have

1. Where do i mount it?
2. How should i splice it in to the lines?
3. Should i put just one pump on or duals?
4. I want to toggle switch the pump so i can use as necessary...good idea or not?

Any help with this is greatly appreciated as i would like to get this done before snow flies. Thanks Guys...THIS IS THE BEST SITE I"VE BEEN ON IN TERMS OF THE MASS FLOW OF INFORMATION, KNOW HOW/EXPERIENCE, AND QUICK RESPONSES WHEN YOUR IN A BIND!!! THANKS!!!

 

1.on the drivers side frame rail.with a clear view fuel filter between it and the tanks.
2.fuel rated hose.
3.still researching this myself.i think gravity will feed from the rear tank just as fine as it would from the front tank and then the pump can push it from there.
4.you want it to have power at all times when you turn the key forward.
the pump needs to run constant.
these motors have IDI (indirect injectors) and they are cooled by fuel running through the system continually.

you also MUST remove and block off the mechanical lift pump.otherwise the diaphragm could blow out in it,and the electric pump would keep pushing diesel into it,and with a blown diaphragm,this means the fuel fills the base of the motor with diesel!-end off motor quite quickly of course.
(some guys here just put the electric on a devoted switch and use it to solely prime the system,this is why they keep their mechanical lift pumps too.they switch it on.then off.-still kinda risky probably lol.id need to check my oil before i started the motor after doing it.)
they do make pumps that can pull.and you can install them up in the engine bay,so you can watch your filter and get to it easy.but its going to cost more of course.
the "holly red" is commonly liked.im researching others right now as i think this pump is overkill for what we need.

 

I have mine mounted just after the tanks switching valve so it can draw from both tanks. I simply used fuel rated hose to hook the the plastic line, it doesn't collapse under clamps. I did use a Holley red, been working fine for a few years now. I currently have it hooked to the injection pump solenoid wire, but need to get it switched to a relay triggered by the switch. I also would like to put a cut out switch on so that when I am testing turn signals and such, the pump isn't running the whole time. It does depend on the type pump you use as to whether you can pull through them without restriction. The Holleys are vane type, so they wouldn't be good to use as part times, you want a pulse type for that.

 

fellro86, you're drawing power for you pump from the Injector Pump (IP) Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (FSS) line? That's risky as the current draw for a pump is likely to exceed design specs on the solenoid wiring.

What I did when I was short on time and relays was to run the pump power wire up to the battery, have an inline fuse, and alligator clip that I clipped on the battery when I was about to start. This is dangerous as it is always on... if you wreck it'll keep pumping. OK maybe not a huge risk but definitely only a short term fix. Unclip after you've stopped.

The final setup is a power wire from battery through inline fuse to relay (fuse and relay tucked behind road side battery in the E-350 compartment) with a trigger wire going to the FSS on the IP. Obviously the switched power side of relay going to the pump, and ground to ground.

morimoto: you only need one pump to replace the mechanical lift pump. Frame rail under driver's seat worked for me. The chevy BB plate covered the old mech. pump hole perfectly. Specs IIRC are 7 psi, 30 gph.

I don't see the point in going to the trouble of installing a new electric pump, and keeping the old mechanical pump. You know it's going to fail one day, might as well remove it while you're in there working... when it does fail it could cause serious damage if fuel gets in the crankcase. And once the electric pump goes (everything fails eventually LOL) that is a relatively quick and easy change, with virtually no damage as a result of the failure. (not counting the stalling at road speed and crashing or anything like that. )

 

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!! I have a better understanding of what i need to do now...so my final question would be is it okay to take off the mechanical fuel pump and run my electric pump on a toggle on my dashboard with an inline fuse run from the battery, so whenever i jump in the truck i can hit the toggle and let the glow plugs go(giving the pump time to run) and crank it up and just kill the toggle after i shut the truck off? Thanks again everyone!

 

Yeah you can use a manual switch to control the fuel pump. But, it is pretty easy to run one more wire and add a relay to have automatic/don't think about it setup. Your ride, your call.

 

yeah,you should just hook her up so when you turn the key forward,your on and ready to start.easy,cheap and no messing.
they only draw like 2 amps haha.(seriously!)

 

haha, 2 AMPS!! Anyway, yall talked me into the relay switch...lol, I'm gonna start ordering the junk i need to get this pig runnin good again...Thanks for the help once again!

 

The wire is pretty heavy gauge to the injector pump for a simple magnet like the injector pump relay... But yes, I need to get it redone, but has been fine for over 4 years.