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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 11:48 AM
  #31  
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saggys
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Great link! Do the Thorley's bolt up to the remainder of the stock exhaust? I am aware that they include the Y pipe. That will render my SPD useless. Just do not want any supprises at time of job.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 01:10 PM
  #32  
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I did this job on mine it was the worse, I installed Ford motorsport headers connected to the stock y-pipe that had the off-road piece in it and ran it thorugh the stock convertor and into a magna-flow muffler and duels out the back it sounds good runs better and doesn't downshift when pulling hills as much. I used a dremel tool as well for cutting the bolts off and a stud remover, the pass. side I had to cut the stock exhaust manifold in two pieces to get it off. I heated them and used PB blaster to remove studs. I also removed the shocks and mounts, tires, starter(ended up having to buy a new one because I broke a bolt on the solinoid. It is a total PIA and the worse job by far I have ever done on a vehicle.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 06:33 PM
  #33  
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And I thought I would be smart!!

After reading about the problems everyone is having with broken studs I decided to be proactive and replace mine before they started breaking.... at least I thought so until I started taking it apart.... had 3 broke and didn't even know it.. decided to go ahead and install Banks headers and exhaust while I was at it... The only thing I would have done different is I would have gone down to the local exhaust shop and paid him to cut off the old exhaust system... That was a challenge without a cutting tourch. I would like to see the toqure wrench you are suppost to use on the header bolts. I could heardly get a 10mm wrench on some let alone a socket.
The best advice I picked up off the forum someplace was the suggestion of getting the right kind of stud puller and useing a little heat on the heads. That was the tip of the day. Thankfully I didn't have any studs break off at the head..just at the nuts.

Really happy with the results but it will be spring before I will be able to put it to the reat test.... 5th wheel put away for the winter.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 07:17 PM
  #34  
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You were wise replacing the studs before you noticed broken studs.

For cutting off old exhaust systems and pipes its hard to beat a sawzall and a tall metal cutting blade. Thats what I use and thats what the local exhaust shops use.

No way your going to get a torque wrench on the bolts and get an accurate torque. I tightened mine down as much as I could with one hand. Just make shure you disconnet the battery before tightening or check the bolts. A wrench just may fall on the starter leads
 
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #35  
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antisieze??

Buying a 2005 with low,11k, miles. Would it do any good to back the studs out and coat them with antisieze?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:32 AM
  #36  
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From: Indiana
Don't think you will ever back them out. The problem isn't always the studs sticking in the heads but the studs breaking at the nuts. If you are going to mess with it, bite the bullet and do it right or it will always be somthing you will be messing with.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 01:13 PM
  #37  
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Old tyme rver what differences have you noticed? I carry a truck camper and pull a boat and am looking for a little more myself. Are the banks headers much louder than stock at idle? Do not want to be too loud in the campgrounds.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 02:15 PM
  #38  
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From: Indiana
I haven't pulled my 5th wheel yet so I don't know the total difference in power but I can tell a big difference just normal driving. The idle sound isn't too loud, just a comfortable rumble, maybe 1/2 as loud as most diesels so you won't get any objections from your neighbors. At cruse you can hear it but not bad, just turn up Willie Nelson a little. Under hard accerlation you do know those 10 babys are working for you.

I should have done this long ago.... of course towing, I have the 5 Star 87 oct towing tune in the computer, but not for dormal running around.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:02 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by saggys
Old tyme rver what differences have you noticed? I carry a truck camper and pull a boat and am looking for a little more myself. Are the banks headers much louder than stock at idle? Do not want to be too loud in the campgrounds.
I have the same setup as Old Tyme Rver, minus the tuner, and it is slightly louder than stock, with a richer note. Not very intrusive unless you are standing on the go pedal, which, in my opinion, makes it sound slightly orgasmic.

I also pull a trailer in the summer 5 days a week, and it definitely made a big difference.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #40  
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Well I got my truck back from the dealer today. They didn't put my headers on as it required notching the frame. The stock logs were planed and reinstalled. It's amazing how quiet it is now. I am pretty disappointed that I don't have the headers on so I will have to consider some other options as I want those restrictive logs off. Until I get that figured out I will get the Y-pipe changed out and have a new exhaust put on it. Eventually I will be calling up Mike for a tune but that won't be until well into next year with having to pay the dealership to handle the manifold job.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 01:51 PM
  #41  
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What kind of headers did you buy and where did you get them. THis is the 1st time I heard of this problem from anybody on all there postings. Sure don't want anybody else to have your problem.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #42  
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I got mine off E-bay like many others. They are branded as Top Speed Pro1's. I know that some have had to notch the frame or dent the tubes to get them to fit. Since I had Ford dealership handle mine they wouldn't do either. I am going to look at picking up some from Ford Racing then as they should have no clearance issues.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #43  
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I know Banks has no clearance issues, plus they supply 2 heat shealds, one to protect the starter and one for the break lines and shift cable on the left side. They are more expensive but have a lifetime warranty and are stainless. The lifetime means something to me, my other truck is a '87 250 with a 460 and in perfect shape.... I keep my stuff a long time so I go for the long range value.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 03:46 AM
  #44  
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I'll be putting the jvt headers on my 01 pretty soon. I has many studs broke off in the head as well as flush with manifolds. Notching the frame isn't an issue with me. I'm not concerned.
I also keep stuff for a long time. My 95 F250 460 has over 235k on original engine and trans was rebuilt at 200k just because. Awesome truck. I hope this v10 is at least half the truck my 460 was.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 05:57 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by UNTAMND
I'll be putting the jvt headers on my 01 pretty soon. I has many studs broke off in the head as well as flush with manifolds. Notching the frame isn't an issue with me. I'm not concerned.
I also keep stuff for a long time. My 95 F250 460 has over 235k on original engine and trans was rebuilt at 200k just because. Awesome truck. I hope this v10 is at least half the truck my 460 was.
Notching the frame wasn't an issue for me either. The dealership wouldn't do it, so if your having someone do it for you check with them to see if they will perform that "mod" to get the passenger side to fit.
 
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