Autolite 2bbl carb adjustment??
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Autolite 2bbl carb adjustment??
Just got a 67 ford 360 f250.... Has factory autolite carb.
The truck idles GREAT, but give it any more than 10% gas it falls on its face.
How do i adjust the carb screws? Thanks guys.
PS I Reak of old gas, so im guessing this thing has really old gas in it, and im guessing it need new gas.... but wouldnt it idle bad too? Thanks
The truck idles GREAT, but give it any more than 10% gas it falls on its face.
How do i adjust the carb screws? Thanks guys.
PS I Reak of old gas, so im guessing this thing has really old gas in it, and im guessing it need new gas.... but wouldnt it idle bad too? Thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 3
From: central Alberta
carb
Sounds like it needs a thorough cleaning before anything else. There are different fuel circuits in the carb so while it may idle okay, the transition circuits could be sludged up with varnish and crap or the power valve could be blown. A can of carb cleaner and a new kit are fairly cheap and that is an easy carb to work on. To get the kit, the parts guy may ask for a carb number; this can be found on the front left side of the base or on a tag. Should look like C7TE-A or something along that format. The idle speed and fast idle screws are on the RH side and the mixture screws are under the front of the float bowl. Hope this helps...
mike
mike
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I tried my other 2bbl card from my 68 and the same thing.
Idles great, give it some gas and it falls on its face. Possible fuel pump problem??
I can put fresh gas in a glass bottle and route it to the fuel pump, but im not sure how many lpm or gpm these fuel pumps are
Idles great, give it some gas and it falls on its face. Possible fuel pump problem??
I can put fresh gas in a glass bottle and route it to the fuel pump, but im not sure how many lpm or gpm these fuel pumps are
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Sounds good, what do you time these motors at?
I found that the inlet fuel line going into the pump (about 8 in) was as soft as a vacuum hose. Im guessing it broke apart inside and is clogging the flow.
Think i have to take apart the fuel pump as well or just replace the hoses?
Thanks guys... and is there really a way to tell between a 360 and 390 block?
I found that the inlet fuel line going into the pump (about 8 in) was as soft as a vacuum hose. Im guessing it broke apart inside and is clogging the flow.
Think i have to take apart the fuel pump as well or just replace the hoses?
Thanks guys... and is there really a way to tell between a 360 and 390 block?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 3
From: central Alberta
Just by putting a stick in a spark plug hole and measuring the piston's range of travel (stroke).
mike
mike
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 258
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From: mid-nowhere AZ desert
Sounds good, what do you time these motors at?
I found that the inlet fuel line going into the pump (about 8 in) was as soft as a vacuum hose. Im guessing it broke apart inside and is clogging the flow.
Think i have to take apart the fuel pump as well or just replace the hoses?
Thanks guys... and is there really a way to tell between a 360 and 390 block?
I found that the inlet fuel line going into the pump (about 8 in) was as soft as a vacuum hose. Im guessing it broke apart inside and is clogging the flow.
Think i have to take apart the fuel pump as well or just replace the hoses?
Thanks guys... and is there really a way to tell between a 360 and 390 block?
But be carefull messing with the gas. I would take off the battery cables just to be safe while draining the tank.
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From: Burbank, CA
A quick note about the Autolite 2 barrel carb:
I recently rebuilt mine in my '67 F100 (352 engine), and I found that the float level really needs to be set and checked carefully. I know carbs pretty well, and I set the float level dry on the bench very carefully, to the factory (dry) spec and technique. On the truck, it ran rich and burbled and stumbled. So I checked it wet, by the Ford manual method, and, sure enough, it was running more than 1/8" high. Readjusted it wet, to the spec, and now it's running fine.
The point is that you shouldn't trust the dry float setting if you're having a carb problem. Check it wet by the factory procedure to be sure it's right. I guess there's enough tolerance in the construction of the floats and needles that a fixed height of the top of the float doesn't mean that the fuel is at the right level. The fuel level is what's important.
I recently rebuilt mine in my '67 F100 (352 engine), and I found that the float level really needs to be set and checked carefully. I know carbs pretty well, and I set the float level dry on the bench very carefully, to the factory (dry) spec and technique. On the truck, it ran rich and burbled and stumbled. So I checked it wet, by the Ford manual method, and, sure enough, it was running more than 1/8" high. Readjusted it wet, to the spec, and now it's running fine.
The point is that you shouldn't trust the dry float setting if you're having a carb problem. Check it wet by the factory procedure to be sure it's right. I guess there's enough tolerance in the construction of the floats and needles that a fixed height of the top of the float doesn't mean that the fuel is at the right level. The fuel level is what's important.
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Ok i have a multi fuel tank problem or a fuel pump promlem. I have a clear fuel filter intween the pump and the carb. I can tell its Staving for gas. I have blown out all the fuel lines, replaced the soft lines, and fuel filter. Emptied all of the old gas out of the IN CAB tank and Driver side bed tank.
put 5 gallons of new gas in cab tank, and hard lined (skipped L main R lever) Tank to fuel line. Blew out lines again, still starving for fuel.
So i figured the tank is corroded inside, so i moved on to the Bed tank.
put 5 more gals of gas in bed tank, hardlined tank to fuel line, same thing. The fuel filter barely has gas going through it.
SOOO Either both of my tanks are messed up, or my fuel pump is SHOT. Help me before i loose it
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Pull gas line off at the carb or fuel pump and do a volume test by cracking the motor over for about 20 seconds in to a catch gas,I can can't remember off the top of my head but you should have around a 1/2 cup+- or so if it's good. Most filters get a air bubble in them an looks like it not getting enough gas. If your carb float bowl is full and you can see gas coming out the and down in the carb throat when you move the carb linkage by hand..If no gas then mostly carb accelerator pump check valve if the carb is not leaking gas from the diagram pump cover. Some early model carbs have a ball check-valve later ones have a little red rubber type that always seem to fail after about 6-7 yrs or so NOTE Remember to remove coil wire so you don't get a spark near a open gas lines,FIRES start ez ok.. my 2 cents
orich
orich
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