2006 at dealer...
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Senior User
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From: buckley WA
2006 at dealer...
Took my 350 into the dealer for a tranny flush at 90,000 miles. Warantee almost up so I made a list of things for them to check. At the bell housing there are drips of oil. When I bought it 3 months ago they said that the seepage that was there is normal.. but it is driping. Is it normal and them deny warantee? I also smell coolant when I get out of the truck after a drive. Seems to me that isn't a good thing either. Also my battery light flickers when I start it, and once in awhile it takes a bit for it to fire off. Two new batteries btw. So am I being unreasonable? The other thing that concerns me is that the dealer said they don't heat the transmission fluid when they flush. On this site it is said that it HAS to be heated to open the t-stat to get all the fluid changed. Any difinitve answer to that? Thanks for the input in advance... great site for info that is for sure! BTW the truck runs great. There is no noticable leakage from the degas bottle cap. I see no white residue anywhere in the engine compartment. I put on the coolant filter about 1000 miles ago.. no leaks there. And I smelt the coolant before adding the fliter.
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A flush machine that is not heated will only remove around 14 quarts - which is leaving 4 quarts or so still in the system. The torque converter is not drainable. A pan drop and fluid re-fill is adding only 8 quarts or so.
IMO - a flush is better than the "pan drop" unless you do the pan drop a few times in a row.
The BEST approach is a heated machine.
The coolant leak could be the EGR cooler hose - it is hard to see (tucked away on the passenger side).
I would probably insist on the oil leak being repaired.
New batteries can fail also. I would have them AND the alternator checked out on the proper machines. Too much $$'s at stake (FICM).
IMO - a flush is better than the "pan drop" unless you do the pan drop a few times in a row.
The BEST approach is a heated machine.
The coolant leak could be the EGR cooler hose - it is hard to see (tucked away on the passenger side).
I would probably insist on the oil leak being repaired.
New batteries can fail also. I would have them AND the alternator checked out on the proper machines. Too much $$'s at stake (FICM).
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From: buckley WA
The dealer called today. They are addressing all my issues very well. The coolant smell is from the cap venting at 5 psi, so they are changing the degas bottle and cap, then doing more trouble shooting to make sure all is good. I mentioned checking the oil cooler and he explained the 10 deg temp diff between engine oil and coolant.. and yes they will be checking that. The long crank time he said is caused by a leaking fitting in the hpop and they will be changing that. (do the dealers take the cab off for this?) The oil leak is the front cover he said and they are changing that. All is good.... except they checked out my rear brakes at my request and one caliper is sticking. And of course the rotors are below min. $905 is the estimate for 2 rotors, and 2 calipers. I will be doing this myself for sure. They also put it on the alignment rack and found the camber to be out. $92 for the camber bushing. Ouch! They are also doing the tranny flush for me. SO my price out the door will still be pretty high at about $600. They are a great dealer and they sell a lot more trucks than cars. I am impressed.
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From: buckley WA
Almost done with the truck. They changed the snap connector on the HPOP and now are going to check the head gaskets and oil cooler. I asked about installing head studs if the head gaskets are blown, and they charge $300 to install if I supply the studs. They said also the guy sometimes does head gaskets with the cab on, and sometimes cab off. Didn't think you could do heads with the cab on... oh well.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
not all dealers pull cabs. at our shop there are 2 racks and 7 certifried diesel techs. we all use flat stall and flat back 99 percent of what we do. the deal is we do bunches of ambulances and bucket trucks neither one is something you want to pull the cab on. we have gotten very good and doing them in the trucks. You can get a 6.0l on the ground by lunch in a stock truck. heads can be done in frame under times. 6.4 also come right out of the rails and can be on the ground in less then 6 hours. just my thoughts
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
may i also suggest that you ask the advisor if you can go with a ride with the tech when he hooks up the pvt to moniter cooling system pressure after the repair.
pvt = pressure transducer. this is installed in line with the degas bottle and hooked to the vmm. the vmm hooks to the same laptop (ids) as the vcm.
make sure that the test was done is my point basicly force the fact that you would like to see it done. Its the best test out there at this time to diag head gaskets.
if all else fails toss a 20 at the tech to pay him for his time to hook it all back up and show you if its to late.
pvt = pressure transducer. this is installed in line with the degas bottle and hooked to the vmm. the vmm hooks to the same laptop (ids) as the vcm.
make sure that the test was done is my point basicly force the fact that you would like to see it done. Its the best test out there at this time to diag head gaskets.
if all else fails toss a 20 at the tech to pay him for his time to hook it all back up and show you if its to late.
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From: buckley WA
thanks for the info. Unfortunatly I work during the day and can't be there when they road test it. I do trust this dealer a lot. They are doing things that I didn't even ask them to do. They even said if they pull the cab that they would let me know when so I can come and take pictures.
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Senior User
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From: buckley WA
got the truck back today. Now the thing takes twice as long to crank as it did before! And the oil smell I hope goes away. I have about 60 miles on it and it hasn't burned off yet. The oily hand prints on my door ledge sucks too. It runs great, the alignment helped a lot too. But the long crank will have me taking it back in a week or two.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
hey for the long crank. its sometimes normal. put the truck in 3rd gear and run the p*ss outta of for 5 miles at 3k. then give it a cool down time befor shuting it off. This works well as it simulates a high load and both the high load and the high rpm make the ipr apply more and incresses the icp thus forcing the air outta the high pressure oil system wich is hopefully what is causing your concern
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From: buckley WA
Thanks cheezit. I will try this soon. I figure that they did things right. I want to give them credit, but not knowing these things that well what I see isn't right. You have reps coming your way.
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From: Seminole, FL
Great info guys. My 2006 has 74k miles and just started having issues. Coolant smell was first. Small amount of white residue on the degas bottle. Never towed more than 7-8k pounds.
Now I hear a hi pitched squeal sometimes just accellerating from a light. I popped the hood with it hot and still running. I see a little bit of bubbling in the coolant. Can this be anything other than HGs?
Taking it in next week for diagnosis. Just want to know as much as possible first.
I assume they can definitively determine if it's HG, oil cooler, EGR cooler, etc. rather than just guessing.
Any of this not covered under warranty?
Why would they not put in better studs when they replace HGs? Makes no sense.
Now I hear a hi pitched squeal sometimes just accellerating from a light. I popped the hood with it hot and still running. I see a little bit of bubbling in the coolant. Can this be anything other than HGs?
Taking it in next week for diagnosis. Just want to know as much as possible first.
I assume they can definitively determine if it's HG, oil cooler, EGR cooler, etc. rather than just guessing.
Any of this not covered under warranty?
Why would they not put in better studs when they replace HGs? Makes no sense.
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yamahonda -
I agree with the fact that not replacing the studs with better ones makes no sense. I don't understand that either. My 05 6.0 is in the shop for HG replacement and I just dropped $400 for ARP's. The tech. suggested not to go back with Ford studs. Said if it were him, he'd suck up the $400 and put in the ARP's. Seems like Ford would stand behind their trucks and warranties a little better than that. They are basically admitting their studs are crap!
I agree with the fact that not replacing the studs with better ones makes no sense. I don't understand that either. My 05 6.0 is in the shop for HG replacement and I just dropped $400 for ARP's. The tech. suggested not to go back with Ford studs. Said if it were him, he'd suck up the $400 and put in the ARP's. Seems like Ford would stand behind their trucks and warranties a little better than that. They are basically admitting their studs are crap!