Switching out the Switch
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 2
If I were to guess, I'd say the light bulb would be for the shift indicator.
Other than that, was the switch identical to the old one? One thing occurred to me, I had my truck for a few years before I found out it was a tilt wheel. Other people have been in the same boat. The only way to tell a non-tilt wheel from a tilt wheel is to push forward on the turn signal lever. If it is a tilt wheel it will release the wheel. Just a thought.
Other than that, was the switch identical to the old one? One thing occurred to me, I had my truck for a few years before I found out it was a tilt wheel. Other people have been in the same boat. The only way to tell a non-tilt wheel from a tilt wheel is to push forward on the turn signal lever. If it is a tilt wheel it will release the wheel. Just a thought.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 54
From: Pennsylvania
Yup, identical in every way except that light bulb. It's time for inspection anyway, as much as I dislike other people doing work on my truck, hopefully they will be able to diagnose the problem.
Thanks for all the help anyway, guys! :-)
Thanks for all the help anyway, guys! :-)
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
If you were still working on it, check the Light Blue wire, no tracer, at the horseshoe connector, at the truck side of the harness for power with the key in the run position. You should have 12 volts. If you do not have voltage, then you turn signal switch is not being supplied power.
Also check at the flasher. You can jump the flasher conections together with a jumper wire to check for continutiy in the wires, and to see if the flasher is defective.
Does the hazard lights work? If they do, switch the hazard flasher to the turn signal flasher spot for another check. This will also determin if the problem is with the flasher.
If you have power all the way to the turn signal switch on the Light Blue wire, key in run position, have brake lights, and have hazards, but no turn signals, your new switch is defective.
Also check at the flasher. You can jump the flasher conections together with a jumper wire to check for continutiy in the wires, and to see if the flasher is defective.
Does the hazard lights work? If they do, switch the hazard flasher to the turn signal flasher spot for another check. This will also determin if the problem is with the flasher.
If you have power all the way to the turn signal switch on the Light Blue wire, key in run position, have brake lights, and have hazards, but no turn signals, your new switch is defective.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 54
From: Pennsylvania
I took it in at 3, they already had a car in the garage and two commercial-sized trucks waiting for tires (It is a tire service station, but they do inspection/general work as well). They closed at 5, with my truck still there . It will probably be available to be picked up mid-day tomorrow. Hopefully, if the switch is faulty, they give it back to me so I can get a refund.
. It will probably be available to be picked up mid-day tomorrow. Hopefully, if the switch is faulty, they give it back to me so I can get a refund.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 2
That kinda sucks- Here where I'm at (Texas) you have to take it back to the station it failed at, but you can do it forever at no additional charge. So if a brake light is out, you can take it home, fix it and bring it back.
Also, I just take it up to the local Kwik-Lube and I'm out in under 1/2 an hour, no appointment needed. Of course there are state inspection stations on nearly every corner where I am.
Also, I just take it up to the local Kwik-Lube and I'm out in under 1/2 an hour, no appointment needed. Of course there are state inspection stations on nearly every corner where I am.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 54
From: Pennsylvania
The garage called this morning and left a message with my mom while I was asleep (I'm 18! I swear it's normal to live with your parents at 18! 
). She wrote down what they said:
-It needs new front brake pads and rotors
-There is a "rear cylinder leak" (I already know it to be the passenger side rear bleed screw, but they'll surely check the whole line thoroughly so they can get more of my money)
-They still cannot figure out the problem with the switch. I'm assuming now that it was factory defective, so hopefully I will be able to get a refund on it since it was under warranty. That is, unless the shop throws it out, in which case I'll have to tell them the new switch is on them.
$400 bill.
I gotta move to Oregon or something...
). She wrote down what they said:-It needs new front brake pads and rotors
-There is a "rear cylinder leak" (I already know it to be the passenger side rear bleed screw, but they'll surely check the whole line thoroughly so they can get more of my money)
-They still cannot figure out the problem with the switch. I'm assuming now that it was factory defective, so hopefully I will be able to get a refund on it since it was under warranty. That is, unless the shop throws it out, in which case I'll have to tell them the new switch is on them.
$400 bill.
I gotta move to Oregon or something...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
In California, they have to return your old parts if you ask for them.
California has some crap laws, (most notably anything doing with smog) but some of the laws protect the consumer as well.
California has some crap laws, (most notably anything doing with smog) but some of the laws protect the consumer as well.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 54
From: Pennsylvania
Truck's still in. I drove past and they have it in the actual garage (instead of out on the lot), so hopefully they'll have it done tomorrow. I called them earlier, too, and they told me they would keep the switch; I found the receipt and print out the order form as well, the local Autozone is pretty laid-back about returning parts so I don't think it will be an issue. Plan for next year: Print out a PDF of PA state inspection guidelines, and before I take it in, look my truck over for myself. I could have saved tons of money in labor if I would have known to replace the rotors and pads... oh well. Lesson learned, I guess.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 592
Likes: 54
From: Pennsylvania
Final update, then I can let this thread die. Last night at about 7:30, I finally got a call from the shop, saying my truck was inspected and ready to be picked up. I got there and paid (it was a lot less than the price they had quoted me), and drove it home. The brakes were spongey when I took it in, but they're even worse now. They also knocked the cable that controls the gear select needle in the dash, so now P is R.
I'm not going to bring it up, though, I am just glad to finally have my truck back. That, and looking at my bill, they got me -another- brand new turn signal switch absolutely free. So now I'm just going to rebleed the brakes (once it stops being so cold here) and readjust that cable, and hopefully I'll be good to go!
I'm not going to bring it up, though, I am just glad to finally have my truck back. That, and looking at my bill, they got me -another- brand new turn signal switch absolutely free. So now I'm just going to rebleed the brakes (once it stops being so cold here) and readjust that cable, and hopefully I'll be good to go!
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