Switching out the Switch
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 591
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From: Pennsylvania
Sorry for not clarifying; It's a non-tilt wheel, and the switch I got does have the gray plastic plug. Hopefully it will be able to plug in somewhere, I'm going to have a tough time if I have to wire them all in individually thanks to a slight dose of colorblindness... 
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 591
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From: Pennsylvania
ALSO, the puller is really getting on my nerves. I keep popping the screws out of the holes, and I'm too scared to really use tons of force since I've heard all about how easy it is to thread those holes. I ended up screwing them in pretty deep, lining it up so it was all straight, and even after getting the main "pusher" bolt around a couple times, the wheel was still exactly where it had been. I am not making any progress. Help?
EDIT: WOW.... well that was dumb on my part. I didn't even take that big nut off of the inside of the wheel. That explains why that wasn't coming off, then. Geez. Now I guess I have to go find something to get that off...
EDIT SOME MORE!: It's tough reaching up under around near the brake pedal to disconnect that old wire plug. Any hints or tips? I have to go leave for work at about 3:30, and if I could get it done before then, I'd be thrilled. If not, I can still hitch a ride, but the sooner I get this out of the way, the better.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 591
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From: Pennsylvania
EVERYTHING IS BACK TOGETHER!!!
But....
The turn signals worked for about a minute, but then they stopped. Now, I have no turn signals at all. Horn works, brake lights work, the cam auto-corrects the turn signal stalk, the dash lights work (well, when the signals were on).... but no turn signals. What could have caused this?
But....
The turn signals worked for about a minute, but then they stopped. Now, I have no turn signals at all. Horn works, brake lights work, the cam auto-corrects the turn signal stalk, the dash lights work (well, when the signals were on).... but no turn signals. What could have caused this?
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Check your brake lights. If they are out as well, you probably blew a fuse. IIRC, the brake lights/turn signals have a fuse totally or nearly dedicated to them. If your brake lights work, but not your signals, (they don't flash, but come on, it is probably one of the flasher units. Everything is in the same place on the left hand kick panel. There is one flasher at the front, (the little round thing sticking out) and one in the back of the fuse panel that you have to pull the panel to get to.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Pennsylvania
Well it's sort of interesting. My brake lights are fine, but my turn signals don't work at all (no lights, no dash indicators, nothing). But, my hazards work! If I turn my hazards on and then off again, my turn signals WILL work for about 5 blinks-worth, and then they are back to dead. I'm considering the possibility that I missed an electrical ground screw at some point? Would that cause this?
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Damnitt- Here we go- This is the probably the weakest part of my expertise concerning any vehicle , much less one nearly 30 years old.
I think this is why there are 2 flasher units? One controls the turn signals the other the the emergency flashers. I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area, so follow my logic here-. These flashers work by detecting a short -so to speak. Basically there is no difference between a short or a connection to a bulb. That's basically what makes a bulb light up. But a true short, a single bulb or 2 would all have a different current draw which is why there are 2 different flashers.
So- I would try replacing your flashers first and then facing the nightmare of tracking down bad wiring. Does that make sense?
I think this is why there are 2 flasher units? One controls the turn signals the other the the emergency flashers. I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area, so follow my logic here-. These flashers work by detecting a short -so to speak. Basically there is no difference between a short or a connection to a bulb. That's basically what makes a bulb light up. But a true short, a single bulb or 2 would all have a different current draw which is why there are 2 different flashers.
So- I would try replacing your flashers first and then facing the nightmare of tracking down bad wiring. Does that make sense?
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 591
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From: Pennsylvania
Yup, I believe I understand what you are saying. Hopefully, it's just the flashers. The wiring was either original (has had no problems, I didn't touch it at all, let alone change it) or brand new (came attached to the new switch, plugged right in). Maybe the new switch operates on a slightly different current level than the old one, overloading (maybe underloading?) the flashers? I'll check tomorrow. Also... where can you buy flashers? 
I'll have to know by 3 pm tomorrow, so I can make inspection... or maybe I'll just call and cancel?
I'll have to know by 3 pm tomorrow, so I can make inspection... or maybe I'll just call and cancel?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
They are also different Ford part numbers.
Mine has a horseshoe connector right down low by the brake pedal. Non-Tilt-Column.
Also of note, check the fuse for the turn signals. If I remember rightly, brake and turn signals use two seperate fuses, even though they share the same wires from the switch out to the taillamps. Will confirm tomorrow when I can check my wire diagrams more closely.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Pennsylvania
Do they tend to be one-size-fit-all, or are there specific ones to get? Electrical systems are one thing that I have about 0 experience with 
While I'm down there, I'll look at the fusebox too. Same question there, are they easy to obtain?
While I'm down there, I'll look at the fusebox too. Same question there, are they easy to obtain?
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Pennsylvania
As an update, I went and got some fuses and two flasher units from the local autoparts store. I got home and put in a new turn signal fuse (the old one wasn't blown, so that wasn't the problem) and both new flasher units. Still the same result. The good news is that my cam finally "snapped" into place so the new switch auto-corrects now... even if it is dead. Also I scored some spare fuses out of the deal, they may come in handy some day.
What's the next step? Could the wiring in my brand new switch be faulty or something? I have about three more hours before the deadline, when I take it in to get it inspected. They will probably repair it without asking me, and run up my charge for it, so that's why I'd like to see if there's anything more I can do.
What's the next step? Could the wiring in my brand new switch be faulty or something? I have about three more hours before the deadline, when I take it in to get it inspected. They will probably repair it without asking me, and run up my charge for it, so that's why I'd like to see if there's anything more I can do.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 591
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From: Pennsylvania
Here's a picture of the switch I got, and there is one thing I can't figure out:
The light bulb.
The old switch didn't have anything like it, and there was no prong for the hole that the wire was attached to on the horseshoe plug, so I cut it off because it seemed to serve no purpose (not to mention that the bulb was BROKEN during shipping!!). Like I said, I don't know what it is, but it wouldn't have made a difference (just out of curiousity I reattached the wires and still no effect). Does anyone know?
As for the inspection, if they plan on having it inspected before they close today, I may stay around to see what is going on (and to explain to them what I've already done so they do redo it and charge me!). Hopefully it's a simple fix.