95 F-150, 185k, 4x4.

The brakes let out on the truck last week, no pedal pressure at all. Leaking at/near the tee fitting between the master cylinder line and hard line to front corners. The lines are pretty rusty and last month my wife ran over a piece of leaf spring that probably didn't help.

I was told that if I just replaced those hard lines the system would leak somewhere else. He claimed he has a lot of experience where it causes the next weakest part of the system to pop and he always ends up replacing the whole set of brake piping. True? (It makes no sense to me, since line pressure won't change at all if I'm replacing a hard line)

BTW I'm selling this truck and while I want a quality repair I don't want to get carried away with it. If I were keeping it I'd rebuild/replace everything that touches brake fluid.

Dave

 

I can't say that I agree 100% with what your mechanic said, but he could be right. I would say it depends on what the rest of the lines look like. If it were my truck, I would probalby replace them all.

 

By rusty I think it's not the rust that caused the failure. It just means they're going to be a b**ch to work on because the fittings are just a wad of rust.

The line failed probably due to be struck by a heavy piece of metal at 30mph. She was towing and could not avoid hitting it, and banged hard under the left side of the truck.

Dave

 

repair the one that failed only.

look at the others but if they look ok leave them alone.

 

As a mechanic that has replaced lines on many different old fords myself, heres what my experiance has always been

While trying to remove the line that has the rust hole in it, the next line back ends up popping a rust hole due to the movement of me with my wrenches. I usually end up having to replace all line between 2 fixed points (ie: M/C to proportioning valve, valve to rear hose, valve to front hoses) You dont need to replace them all, but if 2 lines connect, they normally will both need to be done.

 

That makes sense.

Dave

 

i strongly disagree.

here in ohio i have had to replace many brake lines for different vehicles and i never had 'the next one' break or leak while working on replacing a brake line.

look at it this way: you replace one then the next one leaks so you replace that one and the next one leaks and you replace that one and the next one leaks until all are replaced.

that does not make sense and has never happened to me, ever.

 

that is tough, especialy with you selling the truck. But for me I have not had to much trouble doing brakes and brake lines. On a ford at least, i have on forein vehicles. If I have a leak I take a look at it. If its one line I will replace it and inspect others as well. If the other lines are quite rusty I will replace them automaticaly. It can be kinda fun bending the lines and all. And straight lines don't cost that much. You can gravity bleed, or manualy bleed with someones help, and be in pretty good shape. But, in your case you may have two or three lines that are bad. Not the worst, but, in your case you are selling the truck and all. So, how much money do you want to put into it? Its not that much and will pay you back in the near future. But, if you have brake hoses going to that will be a problem I think a brake hose is a least 20$ usualy. Plus they are not fun to replace. If you have a lot of rust like you say you do, it may be a lot of work, and not be fun but a big chore. Like you said, you may replace the bad brake line, but another could start leaking later as well. It is a hard position you are in but, i hope you can figure it out.

 

Then I guess they dont use as much salt or something down there in OH, because this happens every time I replace a line that has rusted through. And when i say "line" I mean the hard metal lines, this does not apply to the rubber hoses. And on these ford trucks, there is only 1 spot on the truck where they connect a line to another line, and not to a fitting or a hose. So I have no idea how your "example" is even relevent

 

i just can't follow what you are trying to say.

in one post you say one thing and in this one you say another.

it must be different where you live because your posts are not clear here in northern ohio.

 

Where did I say something contradicting? just reread both my posts, and I see nothing.

 

i belive he is saying like when two lines connect on different ends of a proportioning valve. That makes perfect sense to me. Thats like when I said to inspect all the lines. Majorly the ones near the one that has the leak and all.

 

I had a look at the prices for parts, and it looks like I can get all new brake components for under $200. (On our other vehicles these parts would cost double that, and things like fittings would not be available down the street.) That's good for the next owner and good for me because it will be the least difficult.

I've changed and rebuilt a few brake calipers and master cylinders before but some of this is very new to me.

Questions:
1) I see several options for master cylinders. Should I get the 1-1/8" or 1-1/16" bore? 7/16 and 9/16" fittings or M18 fittings?

2) What tools will I need for forming the brake lines? (Maybe I can carefully bend around a piece of bar or broom handle) I think there is some kind of flaring tool?

3) Those wire springs wrapped around some of the hard lines - is it important to replace those?

4) What about that coil shape in the hoses dropping from the MC - should I duplicate those?

5) Will I need one of those drum brake tools to replace the wheel cylinders?

6) My "full" list is: 2 wheel cylinders, 2 calipers, 4 brake hoses, master cylinder, and a bunch of metal tubing and fittings. I plan to cut apart the old tubing, drain the lines, and head to the parts store for all new tubing and fittings. I figure it's a one-day job since I'm a slowpoke and it's my first time. If you can think of anything else please suggest it.

7) Rockauto has Dorman, Wagner, Raybestos, and A-1 Cardone brands for these parts. If any of these brand parts is particularly good or bad that would be nice to know.

David

 

the wire springs are not needed, they are easy bend for production time saving.

buy the lines with fittings on them, use connectors.

double flaring lines is a pain in the ***.

get a bending tool.

take out the old line and bend to match.

i really see no need to replace all lines but it seems that no matter what you are determined to do all of them.

good luck and this will be more then a one day job.

you will run into problems getting the brake lines out and sometimes back in depending on how rusty things are and how many tools you have and your mechanical know how.

match the coil shape but it does not have to be perfect.

do not use a bar or broom handle.

you need a few brake tools for the rear brakes.

i would replace the line that is leaking first and optionaly all the brake lines that you insist on changing.

then get everything bled and working.

then replace the back brakes and cylinders as another job.

why are you replacing the master cylinder?

why replacing the calipers?

you left out pads and shoes.

this will be well over 200 bucks in parts if you get master, calipers, cylinders, pads and shoes, all lines and fittings and brake fluid and tools.

one long line in my f150 was around 60 to 80 bucks alone to do.

if it is not leaking leave it alone.

buy good brake fluid.

get a can of rust buster.

get a can of brake clean.

read old post for tips and problems in doing this job.

advanced search is your friend.

good planning will save you.

again, good luck.

 

Thank you for your input.

One reason i'm considering all new hydraulics is because the fittings are very rusted and I'd rather cut/replace than get angry when a fitting won't budge and strips off. 3 of the 4 bleeder screws were not willing to budge last year when I wanted to do a brake bleed. If I have replacements I only need to unbolt things, cut the hard lines and replace. The other factor is that all the calipers and cylinders are original, and on a high mileage vehicle brand new brakes are arguably a selling point.

Tonight I'll dig into the parts diagrams and depending on how many pieces there are I may change my mind again.

David