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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #16  
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Nice job. What wire you using? I really really like ESAB's Easy-Grind with shielding gas in .025 for sheet metal work. It is significantly softer than standard wires so it is much easier to sand down, less likely to crack should you need to do some hammer and dolly work. Use 40 grit red sanding disks with a rubber backing pad on your angle grinder to grind down the weld bead, not a hard wheel. They are available at Lowes/Home Depot. Be careful to allow the metal to cool regularly, it's almost easier to shrink/warp while grinding than welding.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 01:59 PM
  #17  
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Thanks AX, I used .030 with shielding gas.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 05:17 PM
  #18  
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Do yourself a favor. Find your local ESAB dealer and have them order you a spool of the .025 Spoolarc Easy Grind wire. ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTE! even if it is another ESAB product. If they try to tell you there is no such thing or something else is "the same thing" or is "what everybody uses" or say that it must have an AWS# (it does not!) INSIST they check with their ESAB supplier, it is ESAB sku # 1302F83 and can be found in ESAB's catalog online here:
Spoolarc Easy Grind
Pick up a package of .025 tips for your stinger while you are there.
Once you try it you'll understand why I'm so sold on it, it's well worth whatever hoops you have to jump thru to get it.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #19  
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can't wait to get a welder...I keep searching for a good deal on craigslist on a miller, hobart or lincoln. Boy, that lay away sounds tempting too...

Good tip on the easy grind wire ax.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Huntfamily53
can't wait to get a welder...I keep searching for a good deal on craigslist on a miller, hobart or lincoln. Boy, that lay away sounds tempting too...

Good tip on the easy grind wire ax.
I finally got the deal I wanted.....Lincoln 180. 220V. Will do Flux, MIG, Aluminum to 1/2inch thick (w. .45 wire).

Reg. $749.00 on for $589.00 with a bonus pack (gloves, hammer, wirebrush, soap markers). Now another $200 for the tank and gas....
 
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 01:08 AM
  #21  
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From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by e-tek
I finally got the deal I wanted.....Lincoln 180. 220V. Will do Flux, MIG, Aluminum to 1/2inch thick (w. .45 wire).

Reg. $749.00 on for $589.00 with a bonus pack (gloves, hammer, wirebrush, soap markers). Now another $200 for the tank and gas....
That's a great deal (unless you are talking $C ?) Where did you get it?
Have you checked on leasing a tank rather than buying it? Be sure to get a large enough tank, mine is ~4" tall and ~ 9" in diameter with a round metal shutoff handle rather than requiring a wrench. Don't bother with one of those baby tanks, they are about as expensive to fill as a larger one and will always run out right in the middle of a project at the start of a holiday weekend!
Be sure to get a self darkening welding helmet. Servicable ones can be had for ~ 80.00. Avoid the real cheap ones the reaction time is too slow. A SD helmet makes such a big difference in the learning curve and improves your welds 1000%.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 01:15 AM
  #22  
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From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by Huntfamily53
can't wait to get a welder...I keep searching for a good deal on craigslist on a miller, hobart or lincoln. Boy, that lay away sounds tempting too...

Good tip on the easy grind wire ax.
Go for a new one. The used ones are typically really old clunkers the size of a kitchen range that require a fork lift to move, discontinued models that have no parts support, or have had a very hard life. Then they want a higher price than a new one of the same capacity because they paid a lot more money when they bought it than they cost now with modern tech. Kinda like buying a used computer.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 05:13 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by nordvik72

I used a angle grinder with a cutting wheel and it was a piece of cake.
Did you use the new panel to mark your cut? Are you sure the mounts will line up?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 10:29 PM
  #24  
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From: Glen burnie MD
Originally Posted by Fifty4F100
Did you use the new panel to mark your cut? Are you sure the mounts will line up?
Yeah i marked it off with the new panel to get it close and i cut just before the line and grinded the rest off till it was a perfect fit. I made sure it was the right size by standing it up to my other fender and matched up holes on bed side before i finish welding it up.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 04:27 PM
  #25  
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Here's a tip: When marking panels for cutting, clean the area down to bare metal with a clean and strip wheel first. Then color a wide path where the line will go with a black or blue permanent marker (I use a broad tip Marks-a-lot). Scribe the line with a sharp scribe, an ice pick or even a large darning needle with the eye pushed into a hole in the end of a dowel will work if you don't have a scribe. The line will stand out as a bright thin line against a dark background, and will not wipe or burn off like pencil while cutting/grinding. Should you need to remove the marker, use a paper towel dipped in rubbing alchohol. If you make a mistake just reblacken the wrong line and rescribe.
 
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