06 350 with 130,000 blowing white smoke and running rough for 5 mins. Shut it down and trying again 10 mins later runs fine. Dealer said tow it in so it is on the way.

My funds are limited what do i do? Find shop to delete egr if that is it or just go stock. I don't have any modifications and don't plan on any.

What is cost of new head gasket? Would I be wise to purchase extended warranty to cover if head goes out eventually since in ready this site it most likely will.

Thank you

 

might just be a failing EGG Cooler, small leak that is cleared out after you first run it? (still leaking but not enough to matter after it is warmed up)

Just hoping it is not a HG for you.

 

is small leak repairable? had oil changed last week they had to add coolant. I am praying not HG as well.

 

Chances are very good that it is just the EGR cooler .... HOWEVER, that also means the oil cooler needs to be replaced.

Considering the EGR delete is wise IMO. I personally will not delete the EGR system until I get a cooler leak. If / when I do, I will delete the EGR system.

I also am not TOO worried about head gasket leaks. I am not tuned, I will soon be monitoring EGTs and ECT / EOT, as well as boost. Watching the gaudes, keeping the EGR system healthy, not running tunes ...... I am comfortable that I have a good shot at reliable head gaskets. If I get a head gasket leak, I will stud it. If I get studs, then "Phalynx - here I come"!

The only problem w/ my theory is that I will be responsible for the bill. I am not terribly hung-up on that though. I know some VERY capable mechanics and I will get a fair price and good work! I happen to think that the 6.0L is a very good engine (yes, I do know MANY folks have had big issues even when being meticuous w/ maintenance). I just think that the LARGE majority of stock engines with good preventative maintenance applied are very reliable (or at least the things that do go wrong are not too major and I can handle most of them).

Good luck w/ your truck.

BTW - you can check for EGR cooler leaks yourself - not hard at all. It is always good to know the details BEFORE it is in the shop!

 

The dealer tells me they are pretty sure it is the egr cooler, they are telling me about $1000 depending on if the coolant contaminated the oil which they would have to do a very extensive flush of the system.

Does this sound correct?

 

I had my oil tested by Blackstone labs and got the results today. They said there was a elevated amount of sodium which could be coolant leak but they did not think that was the case. Too bad for me they were wrong.

Another question is a leak that is obviously very new since the oil was changed last week repairable and should i stop driving completely or is it safe to drive very limited to another shop or do I have to tow it from place to place.

 

It does not sound like they are including the cost of replacing the oil cooler. You really should replace this too. They can install a repaceable core that is cheaper than the whole oil cooler. You should also have them replace the EGR cooler hose - just because they are in there!

If $1000 is for everything, it is a very good price IMO.

 

I would be willing to make a bet that you do NOT have coolant in your oil. It just doesn't happen that way from EGR cooler leaks (I guess it COULD, but I haven't heard of it).

What is the water content in your oil analysis?
Also - what did Blackstone say your sodium levels were?

 

Water level was 0 and sodium was 77 ppm. They stated the wear on the oil compared to oil at 5000 miles were I had 13,500 miles so that was interesting.

 

Sorry, but you haven't changed your oil for 13,500 miles?

 

Yeah - if your water is zero, then the sodium did NOT come from the coolant.

 

I don't usually go near that long but took long trip and drive for work and didn't realize how long but at least the test said the oil was still good. the lab actually recommended not getting another oil change for 15,000 miles

 

What was your viscosity? What oil are you running.

Also, it really is not adviseable to go past 7500 miles for an OCI. Most folks here (including me) will say 5000 is max. Lots of "hard to diagnose" issues can result from it.

p.s. - send me a pm w/ your email address for the spreadsheets.

 

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 63.9
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 11.32

Usually Pennzoil 10 - 40 1/2 synthetic

I try to stay around 7500 - 8000.

I cannot send you a message as I don't know where to do that.

my email is brianjphillips_cmu@yahoo.com

 

Brian .....

You are using the wrong oil - it must be CI-4 or CJ-4 rated!

I believe that the Penzoil is API classification SG/CD. This would work w/ older diesels, but not so good for the 6.0L!

Edit:
spreadsheets sent.