I don't know what these are but then why the positive wear on the lab test.

 

Brian, you won't get oil in the coolant with EGR cooler failures unless the oil cooler itself failed. If that happened you'd get sludge in your coolant.

The coolant flow path goes through the oil cooler and then on to the EGR cooler. EGR cooler failures are typically caused when the coolant passages in the oil cooler become restricted and flow of coolant to the EGR cooler is reduced. This allows the EGR cooler to overheat causing the braze joints to fail. Bis is right on target with the oil cooler needing to be changed (or recored) when the EGR cooler is changed. This is pretty much standard practice these days at the dealership because I think there is a TSB that directs the oil cooler be replaced (or recored) when replacing a failed EGR cooler. I also agree with Bis in deleting the EGR cooler if that's an option for you because it's not a matter of if but when the EGR cooler fails again. However, if you do delete the EGR cooler, you also should invest in a tuner (SCT) that will allow you to turn off the EGR valve and prevent a CEL from being set.

 

You are running rough. This could easily be an injector issue also. Your oil MUST remain clean for your injectors to have a long and healthy life.

With a CCV, you have oil being burned. This oil will contribute to EGR valve problems if you use the wrong oil.

Also, the newer oils are more effective at suspending (and ultimately removing) soot.

Ask yourself - WHY does Ford SPECIFICALLY state to use a CI4 or CJ4 oil.

I do not know if you can do mechanical wear damage over the long term w/ the oil you are using. But why would you risk it?? There are countless people across all the forums that post negative things about the 6.0L. Many of them are because they do not follow strict maintenance routines. Even if the 6.0L had a reputation as bulletproof AND only cost an "arm" (rather than an arm AND a leg), I would not risk using an oil that is NOT recommended and that few (if any) people have data on.

I guess it all depends on how many miles you want out of the truck and whether or not the cost of the truck is significant when looking at your overall net worth!

p.s. - your viscosity is low IMO. It is in the MIDDLE of the 30 wt classification.

 

Now that i look I have been buying 15w 40 penzoil but the report says it is 10 weight I cannot remember if I gave them the info or that is what the test said but it makes me wonder if I am getting taken on the oil changes.

What brand should i be using? Dealership or independent?

 

Many people do not want to pay for synthetic oil. At 14 to 15 quarts, it is expensive.

I personally like synthetic. Some of the favorites are Rotella T 5W40 and Mobil 1 5W40. I am currentoly using Valvole Premium Blue Extreme and it (not on sale) is too expensive to justify IMO.

The NON-synthetic 15W40's are good also - Fords is very good. I do not see many recommendtaions for any others.

 

I will have to check my oil change paperwork tomorrow because I am sure I have been asking for and paying for an oil that was recommended by Ford. At least that is what I was told by the techs who were changing the oil.

 

Sorry Brian, but not trying to hijack your thread. But after reading bismic´s (Marks) reply I have a oil question for him. Mark do you know if CF rated oil is approved for the 6,0 Powerstroke? I´m currently running on shell helix diesel ultra 5w 30, and it´s only CF rated. Was trying to google info about it and couldn´t get a concrete answer.

Thanks in advance, Eiki

ps. this type of oil is euro spec oil, not sure if it´s available in the USA