The overhead console in my non-moonroof 2002 Expedition XLT has started acting up lately. The outside temperature reading will come on when the truck is started, but will go out soon afterwards. If I bang on the console, sometimes it will come back on. If I push the button which changes between degrees F, degrees C or Off, sometimes the display will re-appear, but it then disappears again. Any ideas what may be causing this? It's getting annoying, because I like to know what the temp is outside. Something I have gotten used to having available to me, and now it's not working. Ideas?

 

Keep spanking it, until it stops acting up. Sometimes a harder slap gets their attention.

just kidding...

My 99 had a similar problem on the instrument panel, and I fixed it by re-soldering....

also, this is from an old post........

You can either pay for the POSSIBLE fix at the site below (I say possible because your display is NOT completely blank).

http://www.anyonecanfixit.com/auto.htm

***EDITED**** Here is another FREE site that may help!

http://www.forgotton.net/diesel/trip...ndexframe.html

Or you can read what this guy says. (note: he says not to use a soldering GUN, (it looks like a GUN with a large P shaped soldering tip)....the site above says to use a 30 watt soldering iron, get one with a small tip.)

First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.

Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.

Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.

Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harness on the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tilt the unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).

Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are T10 but I can't recall).

Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 resistors on the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The 680's are 68ohms. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose resistors are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.

Now test the display by plugging in just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!

 

Thanks for this tip. I'm very good when it comes to soldering electrical items, so should be easy. I spent countless hours building HeathKit kits as a kid, and never gave up on the soldering gun. When something needs soldered at work, everyone comes to me. Going to go out and pull it apart now and see what I find. I'll let you know. Thanks again!

 

Just fixed one on my 2002SD last night 5 68ohm resisters 1.06 @radio shack I lost one on the way to the kitchen table radio shack also sells a cool little AA battery soldering pen.Used the same web site as above.

 

Ok, well, I got my console all apart and have the display out of the black case. My circuit board does not have any 620 or 680 resistors. I have a ton of small ones with 106, 123, 127. The larger ones similar looking to the link pics above are 181 and 520. I also have a 911 in a far corner away from the display. I inspected all the connections and the ones which are soldered in place are all nice and secure. The 181, 520 and 911 resistors are a part of the circuit board and do not have any pins soldered to the circuit board. Is there a chance I have an older or upgraded circuit board here? Only numbers I can get off the board are VB6859 Rev A, and PSW1.1 5001. There is a sticker on the bottom of the circuit board with a barcode which reads P7C0QQ1J. The black case the circuit board sits in has a sticker with a barcode reading VE6496COTUTJ. Help!!!

 

Bump - still need help!

 

Did you ever fix the overhead display ?
I have the same issue..

 

Yes, I got it fixed. I ended up getting a new display module through work from Ford and it works beautifully now! Wasn't as expensive as I thought it would be, either.

 

I'll bet your wife is a happy wife.

 

Lol@alloro

 

hello, do you have a ford part number for the module ? ford wants to replace the whole console ? or does anyone rebuild the boards ?
rus

 

Has anyone fixed one of these lately ? I have re-soldered the 501 resistors in my Sportrac 3 times now. Has anyone ever tried holding you finger on one of these resisters while the unit was plugged in ? Seems that the 501 resisters get very hot, I noticed that the 2 501 resisters are in parallel. Probably to try to get rid of some heat, but there still running very hot, thought I burned myself at first. Wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to relocate these resisters off the board and substitute in some 1 - 2 watt resisters ?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

What about adding a small heat sink to them?

 

Those resistors are so small already, how would I get a heat-sink to attach and stay put. Seems there is a lot more room in the cavity outside of the white plastic enclosure to dissipate some heat.
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