Subford, again your wealth of knowledge is great.
With regard to your reply, that's what I thought and I knew this was a speed density system and also did not have a MASS flo. When Quicklook2 said it didn't know what air temp was hot or cold, I was a bit confused. We too work in a speed density format @ HD and they also have IAT's. They are more for fine tuning as the MAP sensor is the main/dominant sensor in fuel correction. It's all a symphony working together as the engineers designed. (OH, no, engineers...there's the problem. LOL)
So, to just get in the same book, the IAT in my 1994 5.8L does read the intake air temp and thus uses it's signal to inform the EEC and that uses the info (with others) to calculate density and for cold start enrichment. Do I have that right?

 

Yes you have it right but cold air from in front of the truck will still give more performance than the hot air inside the engine compartment. So you will lose with the system you bought that is taking inside engine compartment air.
I do not think that 230 degree days are in the look up tables in the PCM.

 

and that is what i said.

 

LOL, you are so right on the look up tables in the PCM. Not quite up to the NASA shot to Mercury. LOL

Well, I guess I'll have to keep you informed as to what my results are. Yesterdays quick run felt good and a bit more responsive. This morning was my first refill after running off the front tank from full. (keeping the rear tank full for traction if needed) Got about 12mpg with the OD off in town with about 10 miles of highway and 10 miles of surface streets each day. No more than about 50-55 mph driving. This morning, again the throttle response even driving with a light foot felt better and the aceleration felt quicker. After this tank, I'll post MPG and let you know how it goes. This thing, with the HD cooling pkg, cools like a mother. The temp stays in the 1/3 guage reading range all the time with occasional drop to 1/4 and occasional rise to 1/2, but consistantly happy right at the 1/3 range. I've opened the hood after a 20 mile highway run and it amazed me how cool it is compared to most late model vehicles with all the plumbing/etc. in the bay.
Oh, I also left the cold air intake hose/pipe connected and run to the heat shield, plus put some flexable heat resistant rubber around the intake tube where it enters the heat shield box to mitigate the intrustion of heat.....mainly at idle/slow, crawl speeds.
Subford, thanks again. You are teaching this ol' bowtie guy a thing or two.

 

Again, thanks to both of you for your help and we'll put this one to bed until I get some stats to share after a tank or two thru it.

Subford,
I have another and hopefully not stupid question on the parking brake. I've looked thru wiring diagrams that I could find and don't find a switch associated with the parking brake. Do these trucks have a switch/circuit to illuminate the brake light denoting the parking brake is set? I do see a red brake light and yellow ABS lights upon key on/starting then they extingush. As if they do their self diagnostics and then go out.

Quicklook2,
No harm, no foul. I was just confused by the IAT not knowing hot or cold air. Remember, they built us old bowtie guys back in the day of carbs, points & condensers. LOL

 

Yes there is a switch on the parking brake and it does illuminate the red brake light on the cluster when the parking brake is down.



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It isnt unusual for the character lines of the box and the cab not to line up. I have seen this in new trucks and you can see it in used trucks on EBAY.

Look at the truck from the rear-about 10 feet away. Is the bumper horizonal or is it also high on one side?? If the bumper is level but the box isnt--it is possible to shim the box--if the difference is 1/4 inch or more-if I remember what the shop manual stated .

To determine if the springs are the cause-measure the distance from the top of the rear axle to the frame directly above on both sides on level surface with no load in the box.

The shop manual goes into this in detail. I will check it after work and give you some of the details. It is very common for the box and the cab not to line up.

I had a Ranger at work that was only 10 months old and both the cab and box had to be shimmed by the dealer-the bumpers were level-but the cab and box was both off by about 1/2 inch or so-drove me nuts looking at it. I had it fixed under warranty.

 

Subford,

Outstanding. You're the MAN! I've got to find out where to get the info you have. (Factory manual?)

Knowing that there is one, now I need to find it's physical location to see what's happening. I get no continued illumination with the pkg brake on and in the start/run mode. Maybe a loose wire/connector or bad switch.
Thanks a million again. I think I'm slowly turning "blue" LOL

 

You may go here to order:
1994 Bronco/Light Truck/Super Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual - Helm Incorporated

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Thanks Subford...will do!

Also, at lunch, I went out and looked for the switch/wire. Found it unplugged due to a wire wrapped around it from some aftermarket box under the dash by the column. My guess is it's some old aftermarket security system. gonna have to research that one. At first I thought is was the trailer brake. Nope. Found the wires to the trailer brake and they are much larger guage and factory labeled. That one surprised me. Subford, have you ever seen a factory installed trialer brake set up? I followed those wires and they have factory tags just like the other harnesses. The plastic, thin type label with circuit name and #'s. Weird, didn't know that would have been an option...maybe it was since this has the HD set up with towing pkg. Even the reciever hitch and plug socket is labeled FORD.
Anyway, back to the pkg brake switch. It works...well sort of. it worked when plugged in and then when I released the brake and reapplied it, it didn't work. Wiggled the wire connector and lights on again. The pkg brake release is very hard...."THUD" and I'm wondering if this is either effecting the connection or switch. The connector to the spade on the switch feels real solid and the wire to the female conn. is solid....so maybe the switch.
Thank you so much for your time and the info. I'll let you know on the brake switch/wire/conn. when I work that issue. I'll also let you know what the little "black box" is if I find out. (I'b betting on the aftermarket considering the small guage wiring and what looks like an antenna lead for transmitting to a pager.) I'm **** about good clean wiring and harnesses and hate to see hacked up stuff like this. I'll be "sanitizing" this stuff immediately! I've seen more problems with vehicles because of hacked up wiring and wiring mods than just about any other issue.

 

Yes



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Again, you have an amazing access to docs and diagrams.
This looks exactly like the system.....at least as much as I found/followed so far. The in cab controller is a Kelsey unit and now the additional relays make perfect sense. I guess I never imagined this set up on a 150 4x4...at least to this extent. A 250 0r 350 dually yes, but a heavy 1/2 ton. All the terminals activate as shown in your schematic on the hitch socket. Now I'm even more impressed with this rig. I'm guessing this was a special order by the original purchaser.

Oh, just fyi, the little black box was infact some sort of aftermarket security system that was not active. Stopped by a local stereo shop we work with and showed them the box. As suspected, a cheap accessory no name cheapy! I'm guessing they didn't know about the theft system or wanted an added system. Siren not there, so must just be the remains. LOL Will remove the rats nest from under the dash and file it in the round file! Clean and sanitary is the name of the game here.
Oh, and the pkg brake switch/light worked flawlessly on the way home. Thanks for the help there.
I'm still hoping to get some pics, but the Mrs. and I are leaving tommorrow night for CA to attend her 30th reunion. About a 12 hour drive over the Siskious and down to the central valley. I'm looking forward to seeing how many still have hair. LOL I'm a Grandpa twice and still got it all up top.....must be clean livin. LOL Will get some pics when we get home and get em' posted......got to before Elk season ya know.

 

That sucks that your air box was in such bad shape.

In my opinion the K&N filters are not that great. I have thrown several of them away because the either deformed, or ripped, or have small holes in the filter media or something along these lines. They do not keep as much dirt out as a good OE style filter. I also didn't want to have to worry about the KN oil gettin on the mass air sensor either. Cleaning them is a pain as well.

 

Ya, it did kinda suck. But, it gave me an excuse to clean the area up, check out, clean and lube the thottle body and verify all components were functioning properly.
I have neve had a K&N filter tear or get holes. They'd replace it free of charge if that happened. We are a dealer for Harley's with K&N and up till 2004, HD used K&N in all their hiflow aircleaner kits. Then, some bean counter got cheap and went to a dry type washable element and those came apart and pin holed miserably! They are no on their 2nd Gen. of filter and still they suck! We build our own kit with all the same components except the filter....we put in K&N's in. These last forever when maintained. And trust me, if there were issues, these guys would Bitc* after spending 20k on a bike. LOL
As for maintenance, that's easy....at leas to me. The inexpensive charger kits make it easy. The cleaner goes quick, but you can buy a larger quart spray bottle. The filter oil (red) that comes in the kit is a small can and will last years. Mine typically last about 5 years and that's with doing a cleaning every 2500-3000 miles. Most people spray way to much oil on them. Think of it as a light spray like doing guide coat for blocking. We see them dripping with oil even after being run for hundreds of miles. This is the biggest mistake on these.....people "soak" them with the spray oil. The biggest problem in the post cleaning dry time before oiling. But, there's a trick. Shake out the water like shaking off a paint brush and then set it in from of a fan. I have a box fan and a hanger that allows me to place the filter in front of it. Dries real quick with no adverse effect. I'll usually start with the filter when doing a tune/oil change. That way, when I'm done with the rest I just do a light reoil spray and back on it goes.
For me, K&N's have out lasted the cars/bikes and I've never had a problem. But I understand there are things that happen and these are man made, so stuff happens. LOL
This is the 3rd day with this kit on and I can say there is an improvement in accelleration and throttle response. After a couple of tanks of gas, I'll let you all know about economy +/-.
At least it's better than the cracking/brittle twin hoses......there would be no filtering there. LOL