Synthic oils
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Not sure what your definition of "best" is, but if your not going to use the specified Motorcraft product, that's already been tested, choose a crankcase lube that says it meets or exceeds Fords specifications for the specified lube called out in your owners manual, for your operating conditions & the type of driving you'll be doing.
Maybe on Bitog look up some UOA's of different lube brands used in this engine, in areas similar to yours & under similar operating conditions, to get feel for the average wear numbers you might expect, then do an oil analisis to see how your wear numbes compare against those averages.
Don't forget quality filtration, it's often overlooked in this equation & imo it is as important as the crankcase lube we choose & the OCI we use!!!!
More lube thoughts to ponder.
Let us know how it goes.
Maybe on Bitog look up some UOA's of different lube brands used in this engine, in areas similar to yours & under similar operating conditions, to get feel for the average wear numbers you might expect, then do an oil analisis to see how your wear numbes compare against those averages.
Don't forget quality filtration, it's often overlooked in this equation & imo it is as important as the crankcase lube we choose & the OCI we use!!!!
More lube thoughts to ponder.
Let us know how it goes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 5,228
Likes: 5
From: Running Springs CA
The single most important lube characteristic for the older Powerstrokes is anti-foaming, due to the unique injector design. Therefore, any synthetic MUST be an HDEO, that is, API CI-4 or CJ-4. PCMO's, like API SM, even combned with CF, such as regular Mobil One, can cause problems. I'm sure there are non-API oils from Amsoil, Redline or others that will work fine, but you are taking a risk.
Jim
Jim
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 265
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From: Wisconsin
I also would like to know what synthetic oil would be best for the 2003 7.3 that spends a lot of time in cold wheather but also travels to Florida pulling a camper??? I am currently using Rotella t 15/40 dino oil and would like to go to synthetic.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: East Tennessee
I can't help but keep recommending Rotella-T 5W-40. And there is a new Rotella-T6 5W-40 that's even thinner during start up. Great price and great oil. You can run 5W-40 year round, btw. They both are 40 weight when warm (5W-40 or 15W-40).
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 265
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From: Wisconsin
Thanks for the replies to everyone, I would really like to use the syn 5/40 but you always are wondering if you are doing the right thing.By best pawpaw, I mean what would be the greatest lubricating job out there.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
The best recipe lube & oil filter construction out there, are the one's that'll keep your engine the cleanest & produce the lowest UOA wear numbers, for your engine/drive train combo, doing the type of driving you do, in type of enviorment your operating in, for the OCI you choose!!!!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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The single most important lube characteristic for the older Powerstrokes is anti-foaming, due to the unique injector design. Therefore, any synthetic MUST be an HDEO, that is, API CI-4 or CJ-4. PCMO's, like API SM, even combned with CF, such as regular Mobil One, can cause problems. I'm sure there are non-API oils from Amsoil, Redline or others that will work fine, but you are taking a risk.
Jim
Jim
Why are you not looking at the ACEA E sequences, which are much tougher standards to meet.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: East Tennessee
I thought ACEA was Euro? Not saying it isn't more stringent, just saying, we tend to look at American specs around here.
New User
Joined: Aug 2009
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The single most important lube characteristic for the older Powerstrokes is anti-foaming, due to the unique injector design. Therefore, any synthetic MUST be an HDEO, that is, API CI-4 or CJ-4. PCMO's, like API SM, even combned with CF, such as regular Mobil One, can cause problems. I'm sure there are non-API oils from Amsoil, Redline or others that will work fine, but you are taking a risk.
In order to be API certified, an oil & additive package have to meet Minimum requirements... there are no brownie points awarded for exceeding these requirements.
Remember this every time you walk into a government building - it was built by the lowest bidder.
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