I have a 10.25 full floating rear end, axle code 39, and had to acquire some automatic brake adjuster cables and guides at the wrecking yard.

I was lucky and found 2 code 39's and one was in rather decent shape as the axle seal was leaking and the parts were well lubed, not rusted badly like the other one was.

I was unwilling to crawl under the shaky trucks there so I pried the outer washer like plate off the end of the anchor.

My first question is, how do the anchors come off to reinstall them?
I assume there are threads on the end and a nut on the inside of the plate? (By inside I'm referring to the opposite side of the backing plate from where the shoes mount to)

After I pulled the "washer" off and the related parts including the cables that I needed, the anchors felt loose.

I have to put the brake job off until the weekend of the 17th, and I'm hoping the temp is reasonable that weekend.


The second question is about the nut socket for the full floating rear end.
Is anyone willing to measure the socket for me as unless they go for $10, I will have to fab/weld one up.

It has been so long that I forgot the rear hub nut was special and not a normal double nut lock washer set up.

So.

I failed to bring my calipers to the wrecking yard with me and now think I could have just snatched a nut to measure the pin measurements at home, and also could have used a sheet of scrap paper pressed to the end of the housing to get the ID impression.

If I could get.
1: The snout OD of the round part that fits into the axle end hole.
2: The ID and OD of the round part that the 4 pins are on.
3: The width of the individual pin itself.
4: The over all length of the tool from the 1/2 drive face to the end that the pins are mounted to.
5: The over all length of the tool from the 1/2 drive face to the end of the pins.
6: The over all length of the tool from the 1/2 drive face to the end that reaches into the axle hole.

 

Anyone?

Bueller?

Anyone?

Bueller?

 

I start tomorrow and without the funds to buy one that leaves me little time to fabricate the socket.

Can someone please measure one for me?

 

I typically throw the backing plate away, so I am of little help for your drum brake question. Typically I use disc brakes in the back.

For your socket question, the hub retaining nut on a Visteon axle is a ratchet type fastener, and can be removed with long needle nose pliers. I have a set that have a 90 degree bend in the end and work perfect. Standard straight ones will suffice.
This retaining nut does not have so much tension that it really requires any special gadgets to remove. YOu may have to depress the locking portion (spring loaded) slightly to get the teeth to disengage, but this is simple and once this is free, or even a little bit free, the nut spins right off.

Maybe this will provide a little insight.



You can see what the actual socket looks like at the bottom of the page, but this is not required.

 

I used a small chisel at the wrecking yard to get the others off but want to fabricate one at home.
What I need the dimensions of the pins, the diameter that they are mounted, and the ID of the guide that goes into the axle end.

 

And now that I have thought of it for a minute or two.

How about a little insight on the disc brake conversion.

The rear brake disc, caliper and the caliper mounts part numbers would be extremely insightful.

 

I did make a big score today!

Advance auto parts had a wheel bearing socket kit for use with a $60 deposit that was 100% refundable with return.
So I took my old socket I used on my 72 F100 4X4 to id it and rent the bearing kit.

While looking at the sockets on the peg board I saw one that looked like the one I need and it was listed for $4.95.

Funny it is called a FWD Bearing locknut tool.

On line I saw it from Ford for $70 something
Napa had them for a little over $50.

The price was not a misprint.
AmPro Part number T72041 was on clearance @ $4.95 and a grand total of $5.36 after taxes!

It says it fits 1985 to late F250 and F350 rear axles with hi-shear rotating lock nuts & Dana 80 ford rear axles.

I'll see tomorrow if it's the right one!

 

It's pressed together with an internal collar and also lightly pressed into the backing plate.

The main bolt goes through from the inside where the shoes are and the nut from behind.

After the bolt is tapped out of the backing plate all the related pieces stay together until the collar is pressed off the bolt.