Uplifting Experience (long post)
The 2.5" leveling spacers I installed were a product that was pretty much a mimic of the Readylift spacers. I didn't purchase the Readylift spacers because i didn't need the shock extensions as i purchased the Bilstein 5100 front shocks and couldn't justify the cost for the kit. The spacers i got did not come with the polyurethane doughnuts that the Readylift comes with so instead i purchased two 6"x6"x 3/8" poly sheets from McMasterCarr. I traced them with the spacers and cut them out with a band saw. I then used a hydraulic punch to punch out the centers "Wala" perfect doughnuts.
I then started with two 24" 6 ton jack stands. Purchase yourself some higher ones (30+"). these can be had from harbor tool or others. you will thank me later. I also have two hydraulic floor jacks. One, a larger high lift jack and another smaller one that was barely adequate. I also cut up a few pieces (6" and 8") of 4x4 pressure treated post with a miter saw (to keep nice straight cuts) i had lying around.
Using the two hydraulic floor jacks located under the front axle tubes (dont lift from the differential) i lifted one side and removed one wheel and then the other. I continued to lift in unisen until the frame was high enough for the two jack stands with each having a piece of 6" wood blocks on them. I decided to place the stands on the frame just behind the front bumper as there is a nice flat spot for them to sit stable. There didn't seem to be a prime frame location for these toward the front of the truck without going to a much higher jack, so this is were i chose.
I first removed the track bar bolt (30mm). Note: I highly recommend using an impact wrench with some extensions and a swivel socket when doing this entire job. It saved me some serious time. I did purchase the Readylift drop track bar bracket kit. This comes with the bump stop extensions and the carrier bearing spacer. I removed the stock track bar bracket. These have flagnuts on the top side of the frame and one of them is a little tricky getting back on. Once the new drop bracket was in i proceeded to remove the swaybar end links, brake line bracket (at the spring cage location) and last the shocks.
Once the axle was free i lowered it low enough to remove the springs. I took the time to clean, degrease and paint the springs as well as the spring seats, spring cage, front axle, shock mounts etc.. I continued to drop the axle as low as i could to get the springs, OEM rubber spring caps, 2.5" spacers and 3/8" poly doughnuts on. This was a little tight but got them on without too much problem. I installed the bump stop extensions. I then got the upper mount of the bilstein mounted and raised the axle to meet the lower shock mount, ditto on the other side. Then bolted everything else in the reverse order.
Sunday i started on the rear. I removed the spare tire from the carrier. This gave me a little more clearance and a chance to inspect, clean and grease the hoist winch. I raised the rear axle by the tubes (not the differential) and placed the jack stands just behind the front leaf mounts. These i only used the length of the 24" stands but realized i could have used another couple inches here also. I removed and discarded the axle u-bolts, lowered the axle, removed the 2" blocks, cleaned and painted the u-bolt plates, leaf springs and rear axle. I installed the 4" blocks. The axle tends to want to rotate (front or carrier downward) and may tend to float from side to side while positioning the blocks and locating the blocks upper locator pin. I used a small bottle jack with a small piece of wood under the carrier to rotate it back so the block locator pin would seat properly. There is no real weight here so there is no excessive force on the carrier front.
I raised the axle, installed the "new" u-bolts and sequentially lightly torqued the bolts. I Removed the junk POS Ford Rancho's and installed the Bilstein upper mounts first. The rear shocks had the plastic band. I cut them and they extended slightly beyond the mount. I used the bottle jack here and jacked the bottom of the shock to meet the mount as the axle was as low as i could get it. Installed the bolts/nuts, put the wheels/tires back on dropped the truck and torqued the u-bolts fully.
Last but not least was the carrier bearing spacer. This was easy except for the bolts that have to be removed. I haven't yet figured what assenine Ford engineer designed this bolt/nut bracket set-up but i cursed him for an hour. These bolts were pretty rusted so i soaked with WD-40 and figured my impact would drive them right out. NOT. The bolts go thru the bracket with a nut on the top side that is integrated into another hex bracket designed to hold the nut. Well the impact rounded the hex nut bracket making the job 3 times longer than it should have been.
All in all the result is i have a truck that measures almost exactly 42" from ground to the wheel well lips on all four corners. The truck drives as straight or straighter than it did before, no pull, no vibration. Just my steering wheel is off about a 1/4 turn. I am scheduled to have my 285/75 17 E Nitto Terra Grapplers installed and alignment this coming weekend.
I hope you enjoyed my "uplifting experience" and hope i may have enlightened a few. I also wan't to thank all of those who's help and info i received here on FTE on my parts selection and tech advise. Ohh and sorry for the long,long post.
PS- I will post pictures of the "finished" ( or not) product in the near future.
Thanks again
The tires and alignment are being done now. They had to wait to receive caster shims. Will be a little pricey alignment but it should be done right. They have a good rep for doing the alignments correctly.
Once i get the truck back and cleaned up i'll take some pics then work on getting them downloaded here.



