Horn?
#1
Horn?
So I think I am missing a piece other than the outside cover horn button on my steering column. Problem is I have no idea what goes to a complete horn assembly on the column as I've never seen on.
Any idea what I'm missing or is it just the button and the problem is possibly else where?
Thanks
Any idea what I'm missing or is it just the button and the problem is possibly else where?
Thanks
#2
It looks to me like the only thing that you're missing beside the button is the spring. It's the round piece with the prongs pointed towards the center at the bottom of this pic:
It's $2.95 from Mac's part#7RC-14479. The horn button is $50.95 part#B6C-3627-A. That's with a red center. It looks like there are a couple others that will fit, too. You'll have to decide. I don't speak more than a few words of 1953-1956. If you short between the bullet in the very center and the rest of the metal ring underneath it, the horn should honk if everything else is working.
It's $2.95 from Mac's part#7RC-14479. The horn button is $50.95 part#B6C-3627-A. That's with a red center. It looks like there are a couple others that will fit, too. You'll have to decide. I don't speak more than a few words of 1953-1956. If you short between the bullet in the very center and the rest of the metal ring underneath it, the horn should honk if everything else is working.
#4
#5
Once they are all assembled, th espring will usually end up staying lodged in the horn button when it is removed.
Just about everyone sells the buttons and the springs. If you want to make the horn sound all you need to do it touch the very center stud to any part of the cap surrounding it (I'd clean up that cap a bit or spend the $5 on a new one). It's very hard to see but they are electrically insulated from one another by a small insulator on the top of the wire - the center stud is actually the end of the horn wire - and it's hot - all the time.
Be careful because the horn - even though powered through a relay to handle the high amperage draw will still pull a few amps at the botton. If you touch those, they are going to spark at you and th ehorn will sound (providing th ehorn and relay are good), and I guarantee eventhoughyouare expecting the spark and sound, you're gonna jump. And if something inadvertantly falls across the two, it will eventually weld itself together. That is is the horn doesn't wake the dead first.
Just about everyone sells the buttons and the springs. If you want to make the horn sound all you need to do it touch the very center stud to any part of the cap surrounding it (I'd clean up that cap a bit or spend the $5 on a new one). It's very hard to see but they are electrically insulated from one another by a small insulator on the top of the wire - the center stud is actually the end of the horn wire - and it's hot - all the time.
Be careful because the horn - even though powered through a relay to handle the high amperage draw will still pull a few amps at the botton. If you touch those, they are going to spark at you and th ehorn will sound (providing th ehorn and relay are good), and I guarantee eventhoughyouare expecting the spark and sound, you're gonna jump. And if something inadvertantly falls across the two, it will eventually weld itself together. That is is the horn doesn't wake the dead first.
#7
Here ya go! and as long as I had the button off I took a nice clean picture of my new contact assembly. Hope this helps:
PS. You can buy a new reproduction button for $45 at C&G. I'm sure the other resto places have them too:
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...g=45&t=330&tn=
PS. You can buy a new reproduction button for $45 at C&G. I'm sure the other resto places have them too:
https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...g=45&t=330&tn=
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