I have a 92 ford Bronco that currently has 31" reg tires (nothin special)

Was wonderin bout the cheapest setup to clear 33's.

I know that 33x10.50's will clear on the stock setup but I would rather have the 12.50's. (33x10.50's are a rare size to come by)

I have bought a cheap leveling kit and wasted my time. What do y'all suggest I do.

I'm open to any suggestions lift kits, lev kits, body lift kits, anything.

Just wantin to know what would be the best/easiest/cheaper mod would be.

Thanks

 

Check out the red link in my signature or the first thread in the forum. Lots of details.

 

Leaner tyres mean less resistance to mud, i would search for the 10.5

 

Read up on greystreaks link as the info is pertinent to your situation. Are you planning on new rims to accommodate the wider tire?

 

Stock Rims

 

Cheapest route is 2wd f350 coils from a junkyard, I paid $30.00 for mine.The ride is little stiff but I was worried with a 100lb+ custom bumper and an 80lb winch that the 1/2 ton leveling coils would sag.I am running 33x12.5 on 15x8 DC-1 wheels with no issues on an 89 other than usual radius arm rubbing at full turn.

 

Interesting!!! I never woulda thought of that. Is there any specific year i need to look for to put them on a 92 Bronco? or does it matter?

 

Mine were off an 87 supercab with a 351, diesels springs have tighter wraps which i think would make them stiffer.The coils won't be any longer they just have a higher spring rate via slightly thicker coils.

I also used 1/2'' metal washers under the coil towers.I got that idea from the superlift website, they sell 1/4'' spacers and say you can use two per side.

I got about 2.5'' of lift when all was said and done with close to 200 lbs of bumper on the front.I am by no means saying this is the best way but it was cheap and so far I am happy with the outcome.

 

with this said. the heavier duty coils would allow a lift due to they don't sag as much?
or would i also need to buy spacers too?

 

All the talk about changing tire size and the methods to achieve clearance... while I find some to be rather questionable, no one has made mention of the fact that going up nearly 2.25" in tire diameter is going to mess with your performance if you retain the stock axle gearing. Take it from someone who made the mistake of running 33's and 3.55 gears... climb and passing power go right out the window.

Suggestions can only be made, but from a safety and performance standpoint, some deeper research than a shortcut to a rotten ride from a set of insanely stiff springs compared to the Bronco OEM units would be in order.
Right there you have the answer... if the springs are no longer than the OEM Bronco units, then there will be absolutely ZERO lift... just one heck of a lot stiffer ride. So, you may not get tire rub at full articulation but it's doubtful you will ever get full articulation because the spring rate is so high that the suspension simply won't articulate. The solution to tire clearance is not to sacrifice suspension travel to keep them from rubbing. You defeat the purpose of having the suspension there in the first place. I'm just not sure how putting stiffer springs that are no longer than the stock units serves any purpose in gaining tire clearance. Seems like too much money to spend anyway since it won't do what you want it to do. I mean you wouldn't buy a new set of wipers to fix a cracked windshield right? My $0.02... for what it is worth.

 

I know what your saying but do to the higher spring rate the coils don't compress as much creating more wheel well room at ride height.I put a tire on before I did any work and took measurements.Before I started the Bronco had the usual back to front rake and when I was done the front it was a bit higher then the rear.Yes the ride is a bit stiffer but still better than any front leaf sprung truck I have been in.

Keep in mind the original question was what is the cheapest way.This is just what I did, there are tons of options out there.

 

89F1fiddy is correct. The rear springs on my Bronco stock were the same length and nearly same arch as the 8,000# plus rears I used from the donor 250 I used in my conversion. My truck now sits way higher than it did (like putting on a 4" lift or more) in the rear and with the front leaves it is 4" higher. This rear lift came from the higher rate of the springs. When i broke a rear leaf, I called the local spring shop to check on new replacement cost and the guy was surprised it only lifted it as much as it did. The added benifit of the stiffer springs is that even without swaybars (the F250 didn't have them) the truck as nearly no body lean in the corners and handles a lot better than it ever did with the stock suspension. As this is my opinion and personal experiance take it for what it is worth.

 

I understand exactly WHY the heavier coils achieved what you were trying to do. I just would never even consider doing it BECAUSE the springs aren't going to allow the suspension to articulate as it should. That translates to harder hits to the frame and body, less give when tires/wheels hit potholes, ruts, etc. and result in premature wear and failure of other suspension components. I will concede that its a viable option. It is just not something I would subject any truck of mine to. "Cheap" initially usually means a lot more money spent in the long run on components that would last much longer if the job had been done differently in the first place. I would rather spend more to do it better the first time than have to go back a fix what breaks because the method used tore something else up. Just my approach to it ladies and gentlemen. To each his/her own.

 

Thanks yall for all the input.

Change Cheapest to (The Best Way For The Money)

I appreciate the info yall are giving but its still not what im looking for.

The original question is how can i clear 33x12.50's on my 92' Bronc.

I am looking for the best way with the least amount of hurt on my pocket.

Offcourse I dont want to do something thats gonna cost in the future but then im not gonna wanna spend and arm and a leg to do it. Lets go for the best compromise.

My goal is 33" tires and in the future i am going to regear it to turn them 33's better.
and im stickin to the stock rims...

unless i win the lottery then the money would not be an issue



and Greystreak in your opinion what would you suggest to clear the 33's

 

Well lets see. I used every part that Ford used on the 3/4 ton truck I pulled the suspession from and put all under my Bronco. There for all the working parts are made to handle the work out. Unless your saying that the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks need constant suspession work done on them. Just because it is not what you would do on truck doesn't mean it is wrong and or dangerous. If the job is done right it makes for a tougher if some what stiffer riding rig. As far as the frames go, I had both my Bronco and the 86 F250 side by side with the front clips off while I did my diesel swap and the were totally the same therefore I don't see where it would be any extra wear on the truck. This forum is a place people come to for advise and knowledge on Ford trucks not just what one person deems to be the right way.