been lookin' for a valve spring compressor, but have yet to find one so far. i would actually rather just buy one and always have it just in case i ever need it or one of my friends needs it. probably an expensive buy though.. so really all i can think of is the break-out box..

A double reverse, left handed w/ a right handed option, swivel headed ratchet should be the OFFICIAL ratchet of the 7.3L psd. codys is a life saver. they are available at harbor freight pretty cheap too. LoL

how does everyone get the rear oil gallery plugs outta their trucks??? the ones that face the firewall.. i know cody had HELL with that one and ended up having to cut a hole in the firewall to get it out i believe. there should be a tool made specifically for these plugs!!! LoL.

 

Jim, I custom built my fuel filter lid tool. I just used pieces of 1/2 sqare stock. Made a tee handle and on the lid end, I put pieces of 1/2 strap across the ends of the tee so it won't slip off the lid.

A guy is actually selling breakout boxes for $150 in the classifieds on the Nation.

For the stock turbo removal, a cut 11/16 box end for that one collector nut.

For SD HPOP lines I custom made a release tool

I also custom made a "tuning" tool that allows me to bend the flow separator in the Y of the stack setups I build so the smoke flows evenly. LOL even though mine seriously need tuning. LOL

 

Good call on that plug tool Travis. Yeah, I don't want to have to do that EVER again.

 

Is the fuel filter lid really that hard to get off? I've alwasy just laid a larger screwdriver on it's side across it and push.

I've never had to replace an Oil Rail plug with the motor still in the truck. A flex head ratchet won't work? I bet if there was a way to make a tool for it Cody would have tried something. ???

Thanks for all the input.

 

Autoparts places doesn't always have a lot of rental tools unfortunatly. And never the ones I need.
[/QUOTE]
A picture of something like this would be helpfull for members. I'm going to be doing that soon and will need to figure out WTF to do.
Lets raid IH and steal a few.
Unfortuantly, they dont always have them.
I had 3 of these for my last truck. You always need them when you are away from home. Keep it in your truck!
I'm with cody, if you want one, make it. Otherwise I use a ratchet wrench. I don't have a compatible screw driver. haha.
So handy when you have a friend with one of these.
Picture?
If you buy one of these things, Buy a high quality one. I bought a mid range, and the thing pinches my fingers so much. You really don't need the fancy parts on these for our trucks. Just the hooked pliar type end.
It's called "a good socket array" haha. Find a socket that fits.
If not, find something else that fits. Friend has 1" impact set. He's used the sockets for seals more then he has used them on his 1" impact. haha. Hell, I've used them also.
I dont get why you need a "special" socket for a pinion nut.
You don't know what a Wiggly Pin Wrench is? It's the wrench that takes the wiggly pin outa the wobble shaft.


The most useful tools for any shop, no matter what you are working on.
And this list is most likely incomplete.
But are;
1: Bench Vise.
2: Welder.
3: Press.
4: Common Sense.
5: Imagination
6: Determination.

With these 6 things, you can work on just about anything.
Now, I'm ignoring the standard 'wrenches' and such, cause you aughta have those.

but if you have a press, a vice and a welder, and the other things listed. You can use cheap harbor freight or TSC tools to make whatever tool you need in whatever configuration.

Sometimes these tools are just not available to make though.

So, think of the tools you cannot make.
Like. valve spring compressor.
Cup removal/installation tool.

 

Please elaborate on this. A youtube vid would be even better. It just so happens that I have a dead-blow hammer and a bent prybar, but when I imagine that process in my head it doesnt look good for the injector..............


I second the fan wrench.

 

Injector removal:
1) Remove valve cover, gasket and all wire harnasses.
2) Remove lower injector hold-down bolt only.
3) Slide injector hold-down upward to clear the upper bolt, and place bent prybar under the hold down clamp somewhere and pry up.
Done.

Injector Install:
1) Oil o-rings really well.
2) Tap on top of injector with dead blow till you hear the distinct metal to metal CLINK. Watch not to strike the plug part fo the solenoid, but you can beat on the thing anywhere else.
Done.

 

I dont have a bent prybar, does this mean i'm not going to be able to do my injectors?

Not really sure what a bent prybar is.
Crowbar?

 

I used a large straight reg 'ole screwdriver for years, but the bent prybar works much better, gives more leverage. Picture a larger screwdriver with the end bent up at maybe 45*?
Yes, crow bar will do same thing.

 

Jim, you are right about that. I heated and bent pry bars, welded extra handles to it, tried various ratchets, even tried completely making a tool out of square stock.....no dice. But hind site is 20/20.

Let me tell yall about this, so listen up. I fought this truck for a good day and a half before cutting the firewall to get to it.

Drivers side rear oil rail plug is leaking. I think to myself "THIS WILL BE A WALK IN THE PARK!!!!" Pleanty of room from the firewall, no down pipe.

We drain the HPOP rez and drivers side rail. I grab my favorite, unfailing 1/2 flex head ratchet. (the one that pivots on the Y of the handle, not flex 1 1/2 down the handle from the ratchet head) I stick it back there and quickly realize that the handle hits the head before you can get the ratchet in the hole completely. But STUPIDLY I try to force it and make it work. FAIL, FAIL, FAIL!!!!

This was the beginning of the end. I have now rounded out the square socket hole. This is bad. Next I try a breaker bar, but the handle hits the head too. No problem, I heat and bend it 1 1/2 down from the head. Now it fits in there like a dream.....BUT now that it's bent, and you can't put any leverage on it cuz it cams out. DAM IT!!!

Now I weld a bar on the side of it, so I can control it with 2 hands. That was a joke, same thing, cams out.

So now we try using various implements to put pressure against the firewall to hold it in there. Nothing. Next, I realize that the head isn't going in the hole all the way. So I grind down the face of the breaker bar head (the square part that goes in the hole) So now it's sharp, and sure to get a bite.
It does, and further rounds out the plug. At this point, the sun came up, and Death Row closed it's doors. Truck still leaked.

A few weeks later, time for round two. This time, I'm prepared to cut the cab, remove the head, whatever it takes. So we go through all the same tools with the same result just to make sure we weren't just frustrated. So finally I cut the firewall, and come from inside the cab with a half inch impact and extention. It came out. Whew!!!!!!!

LESSON THAT I LEARNED.......YOU FAVORITE RATCHET IS NOT ALWAYS THE RIGHT TOOL. AND FOR THESE PLUGS, IF IT AINT IN THERE PERFECT, DON'T PULL!!!!!

In hind site, I should have used a 1/2 flex head rachet that flexes 1 1/2 down the handle (the ones I scoff at with my ratchet) and it would have come right out. Lesson learned!!! Hope yall get a laugh out of that.

 

I really have no clue what you are talking about between ratchets.

I think your saying your's is like my nice snap on, but i'm not 100% sure... =\

 

I really have no clue what you are talking about between ratchets.

I think your saying your's is like my nice snap on, but i'm not 100% sure... =\

 

Tool I used except long handle

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Tool I should have used.

SHF80, Ratchet, Dual 80, Flex Head, Standard Handle, Comfort Grip, 1/2" drive, 17 21/32"

 

I went to NAPA and bought one of their sockets that hang on the wall. It was plenty long enough to use even with the ratchet in it.

It is like a shorter crowbar with a screwdriver handle on it.
Like one of these:
http://www.directbuildingproducts.co...0bar%20set.jpg
Sears has them pretty cheap in a set of three.

 

Cody,
You think you messed the hole up with your first attempts at it? Or do you think that 'correct' flex head ratchet would have worked spot-on from the get-go?
My ratchet is like the pic of the 'correct' ratchet, I didn't know they made the other style.

Neal,
My socket was long enough, but the hole inside was too small for the IPR shaft to go into. This sounds waaaay more perverted than it really is.
I remember I had to cut the end of the socket off and make the hole larger, then weld the socket back together. Maybe different sockets go right on?

Also I have seen some guys weld a piece of flat stock to the socket so you don't need a ratchet, gets in there w/o taking out the fuel bowl, I think.