Start problem
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
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From: South Jordan, Ut
Start problem
When starting after it hasn't been run for a few hours, my 2004 F350 with 6.0 sound like it is only running on 4 cylinders---knocking and not wanting to idle. But as soon as it warms up it runs fine. It has 133000 miles on it and is stock. it does have a slow spool up on the turbo when you step on it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
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From: South Jordan, Ut
Just got it in April,(so don't know on update) Changed the oil and filter 1000 miles ago. Rotella 15w-40, fram filter. I have only put 4000 miles on it total. But now thinking back it did start acting funny shortly after the oil change.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2006
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From: Edmonton, AB.
I really hate that word "stiction" We might be hearing from "you know who" in the next couple of posts.
But I aggree with the other guys, sounds like injectors. How cold does it get where you are? You might switch to 10w30 during the colder months if it goes down below 0 or go to the synthetics. Do you know if your getting any codes. It may give you some answers on the injector issue.
But I aggree with the other guys, sounds like injectors. How cold does it get where you are? You might switch to 10w30 during the colder months if it goes down below 0 or go to the synthetics. Do you know if your getting any codes. It may give you some answers on the injector issue.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,923
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For slow starts or hard starts check the following:
1. Do batteries load test good (individually)?
2. Does alternater test good?
3. Do you have fuel flowing to your secondary fuel filter (this includes do you have a fairly new OEM fuel filter)
4. Drain fuel out of the water removal plug in your HFCM and see if it looks bad or if there is a lot of water.
5. Try 5W40 weight synthetic oil (this includes are you using a fairly new OEM style filter and you have the proper oil level)
6. Try your block heater to see if it helps (if it does, it tells us something)
7. Do you have the updated flash from the dealership (get it if you don't)
If none of these help, we can get into more detailed (and maybe more expensive) troubleshooting.
1. Do batteries load test good (individually)?
2. Does alternater test good?
3. Do you have fuel flowing to your secondary fuel filter (this includes do you have a fairly new OEM fuel filter)
4. Drain fuel out of the water removal plug in your HFCM and see if it looks bad or if there is a lot of water.
5. Try 5W40 weight synthetic oil (this includes are you using a fairly new OEM style filter and you have the proper oil level)
6. Try your block heater to see if it helps (if it does, it tells us something)
7. Do you have the updated flash from the dealership (get it if you don't)
If none of these help, we can get into more detailed (and maybe more expensive) troubleshooting.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
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From: South Jordan, Ut
Plugged 3 different OBDII readers in and got nothing...Blank...zelch... no reading... woundn't even turn readers on. could there be a connection problem with the PCM ?
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
I bet your cigar lighter isn't working either, so check the fuse panel under the steering wheel. I don't know the number off hand. If the fuse is good there then check the OBDII plug for a cut wire. There have been reports of tech's cutting a wire there to keep people from installing tuners. That's an outside shot, but hopefully it's just a fuse.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: South Jordan, Ut
thanks NPCCPARTSMAN, there was no fuse in it. replaced fuse--no codes came up.
thanks BISMIC,
changed oil and filter, used fram filter and motorcraft 15w-40 oil, batteries and alternator are good. changed both fuel filters as per you pictorial. had some trouble starting it, after ten minutes finally did, let it warm up a little and unpluged the EGR and took it for a spin. Ran great seems to have more power and runs smoother. Going to let it sit over night and see how it starts tomorrow.
thanks to every one so far!!
thanks BISMIC,
changed oil and filter, used fram filter and motorcraft 15w-40 oil, batteries and alternator are good. changed both fuel filters as per you pictorial. had some trouble starting it, after ten minutes finally did, let it warm up a little and unpluged the EGR and took it for a spin. Ran great seems to have more power and runs smoother. Going to let it sit over night and see how it starts tomorrow.
thanks to every one so far!!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,923
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I know you said it isn't cold there (ie 50 degrees), but get a cord for your block heater and plug it in overnight. If it helps, it is one indication that it could be your FICM getting weak.
The Autoenginuity is the best (ie in the affordable category anyway) code reader. Maybe you know someone that has one w/ the Ford software package??
Be careful about too many cranks and ruining a battery (or two).
The Autoenginuity is the best (ie in the affordable category anyway) code reader. Maybe you know someone that has one w/ the Ford software package??
Be careful about too many cranks and ruining a battery (or two).
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: South Jordan, Ut
[quote=bismic;7999192]I know you said it isn't cold there (ie 50 degrees), but get a cord for your block heater and plug it in overnight. If it helps, it is one indication that it could be your FICM getting weak.
quote]
plugged it in for about 4 hours and it started right up. Where is the FICM? and what is it?
quote]
plugged it in for about 4 hours and it started right up. Where is the FICM? and what is it?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,923
Likes: 3,640
Fuel Injection Control Module
It is the silver box on the drivers side back towards the firewall.
Your symptoms sound very much like the FICM or an injector (more likely the FICM in my opinion).
They are expensive though - $800 or so and they then have to be programmed by Ford (for more $$'s).
Edit -
sometimes I lose track of what was said in a post .............
npccpartsman suggested getting the updated flash (at the dealership). I would also highly recommend this. Have them read the codes before flashing it (their code reader will pick up codes yours can't). If they do not get any codes, have them test your FICM before applying the flash (program update).
If they do not see anything wrong w/ yopur FICM, then have them do the flash update.
It is the silver box on the drivers side back towards the firewall.
Your symptoms sound very much like the FICM or an injector (more likely the FICM in my opinion).
They are expensive though - $800 or so and they then have to be programmed by Ford (for more $$'s).
Edit -
sometimes I lose track of what was said in a post .............
npccpartsman suggested getting the updated flash (at the dealership). I would also highly recommend this. Have them read the codes before flashing it (their code reader will pick up codes yours can't). If they do not get any codes, have them test your FICM before applying the flash (program update).
If they do not see anything wrong w/ yopur FICM, then have them do the flash update.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
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From: South Jordan, Ut
Took it to the dealership yesterday, got a call today and they said injectors 5,6,7,8 are bad.
Do they all go bad together at the same time?
they checked the FICM first, and said it was good.
Can the injectors cause it to be hard to start, but as soon as it warms up it runs fine?
Do they all go bad together at the same time?
they checked the FICM first, and said it was good.
Can the injectors cause it to be hard to start, but as soon as it warms up it runs fine?