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4spd shifter question

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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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4spd shifter question

So I was kinda playing with my truck in my driveway and went to shift from 3rd to 4th only to have the shifter flop in my hand. Didn't quite know what to do but eventually found it to be stuck in 3rd.

Pulled shifter boot out and the whole arm came with it.
Going by this post I'm guessing the "ball" being referred to has broken. I dunno what it looked like before but I think it's supposed to have tabs to lock into/under the "rods" on either side of the shift tower to hole the shifter arm in place while this one just has notches. I don't have a camera to take a picture of it, but if someone has a picture of a good one and/or info as to where I can go to get a new one that'd be awesome.

Thank you in advance, and I'm sure my neighbor who's turnaround the truck is currently parked in will thank you too.

Oh, '78 F250 4x4 4spd.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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Alvin in AZ
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I guess it wouldn't hurt for you to know which transmission you got first...
http://classicbroncos.com/img/tn_tranny-t18.jpg
http://classicbroncos.com/img/tn_tranny-np435.jpg

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/t18_t19_parts.htm
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/np435_parts.htm

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by fetchitfido
So I was kinda playing with my truck in my driveway and went to shift from 3rd to 4th only to have the shifter flop in my hand. Didn't quite know what to do but eventually found it to be stuck in 3rd.

Pulled shifter boot out and the whole arm came with it.
So, what else is new? This is a very common problem.

Going by this post I'm guessing the "ball" Shift Lever Retainer Cap being referred to has broken. I dunno what it looked like before but I think it's supposed to have tabs to lock into/under the "rods" on either side of the shift tower to hole the shifter arm in place while this one just has notches.

'78 F250 4x4 4spd.
From your description, you have a New Process 435 4 Speed.

The cap used to retain the shift lever into the shift tower has two notches on it.

Two pins that protrude from the shift tower retain this cap.

What happens: This cap must be pressed down on, and held down when turning it to remove it.

People do not know this, use pliers to remove it...this tears out the two notches.

B8T7220D .. Shift Lever Retainer Cap / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $7.59 // Y2KFORDPARTS.COM price: $4.64.

This part was on national backorder from Ford recently, so...here's some other sources that have it:

G. STONE MOTORS in Middlebury VT has ONE = 802-388-6718.

CLAREMONT FORD L/M in Claremont NH has TWO = 800-659-4152.

MARTIN FORD in Fort Kent ME has TWO = 207-834-3173.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 29 = 800-543-4959.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 06:08 AM
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If it's a common problem should I try to get more then one?

I think the transmission looks more like the T18, it defiantly has a granny gear 1st if that makes a difference. I'll have to look more closely at it before attempting to say NumberDummy is wrong though

Thank you for the selection of sources, it appears to not be a part my local parts store has/can get. The one section (Napaonline.com is all I've checked so far) they have that might show the part in only allows a choice of C4 or C6, kinda annoying.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by fetchitfido
I think the transmission looks more like the T18
(uh huh, yeah right)

it defiantly has a granny gear 1st if that makes a difference.
Both the Warner and the NP435 have granny.
The shift lever retainer cap used with the Warner T-18 is THREADED, so it screws on/off.

IF you have two pins (rods) protruding from the shift tower used to retain the cap, it IS a New Process 435, as no other 4 speed uses this mounting system.

I sold 100's of these caps over the years. B8T7220D was the FIRST part number I typed here on FTE, as a fellow member was stuck along I-80 with the same problemo you have.

I was able to find him one at a local dealer who delivered it to him...for no extra charge.

btw: In 35 + years, I think I sold exactly one 8MTH7220, the THREADED Warner cap.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 07:38 AM
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G.Stone has no record of having that part and claim the # is obsolete. That's a zero D as the last 2 digits right? And it's not supposed to have a Z somewhere in the number (Guy at G.Stone added a Z somewhere saying the original number I/you gave him was incomplete). Suppose he may have misheard me or something but I'm on to try Claremont ford, even though it's almost a 2hr drive one way if the guy on the phone knows what I'm talking about.

Defiantly has the 2 pins on the shift tower. NP435, I'll do my best to remember that. Can I use something like JB Weld to hold the cup in place if I have to have the part shipped from one of the other places?

**Edit/Update**
Ok, problem is the new part's monkey's only know how to deal with an 11 digit number, not the older 8 digit numbers. The guy in Claremont was going to give up, could only search back to 1980 truck's but came around when he capabilities were challenged by a "random guy" online who claims to know more about his inventory then he does Got one in the works to be shipped UPS.

Thank you again for your help.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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From: Gadsden Purchase
http://classicbroncos.com/img/tn_tranny-t18.jpg
http://classicbroncos.com/img/tn_tranny-np435.jpg
Now that Bill's got you knowing what's up. :)
Look under your pickup again and see the difference in the shape of the belly.
The T18 slants up and the rear.

Classic Bronco's drawings are the best "pictures" on the internet, IMO.
ZF 5 speed manual – Transmission Guide | ClassicBroncos.com Tech Articles

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fetchitfido
G.Stone has no record of having that part and claim the # is obsolete. That's a zero D as the last 2 digits right? YES

And it's not supposed to have a Z somewhere in the number NO

(Guy at G.Stone added a Z somewhere saying the original number I/you gave him was incomplete). CACA del TORO!

Suppose he may have misheard me or something but I'm on to try Claremont ford, even though it's almost a 2hr drive one way if the guy on the phone knows what I'm talking about.
B8T7220D (Baker Eight Tango Seven Two Two Zero Delta) is the correct part number, and has been SINCE 1958!

If the part number was wrong, how in the hell could I have found 83 of the puppies at Ford Dealers across the US, another 121 at obsolete parts vendors?

According to the in-house Ford Dealer Parts Locator System, that every Ford dealer uses, G. Stone Ford had B8T7220D in stock as of 10/01/2009.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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No idea how you found it using that number, no idea why the G.Stone guy couldn't and no idea why the guy at Claremont Ford had to search for ~10 minutes _after_ I informed him he had 2. At least he managed to find 'em.

Now to wait for it to arrive and then figure out how to get the shfiter back in and aligned right. Am I correct in thinking that the cap holds it in the right alignment to shift? I played with it for a good 20-30 minutes and it appears to be jammed in 3rd. Transfer case shifts smoothly between 4L, 2H & 4L so I doubt it's the drive-train being jammed up again.

Would it put too much stress on the system to attempt to drive up a decent hill in 4L starting from 3rd?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 02:03 PM
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The shift lever has to be in neutral to install or remove the retainer cap.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 05:47 AM
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How much do I have to take apart to do that?
If I look at the top of the shift tower will it be obvious?

I'd just look at it but the trucks not at the same location as my internet connection is.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 09:20 PM
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Just a quick way to tell, a T18 vers the NP435, the shift housing on a T18 is cast iron and the NP435 is aluminum.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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Well, from underneath the transmission looks like the side view pic of the t18 but the shifter housing looks aluminum, has the two tab's for the NP435 and after convincing parts critters at the dealership(s) that the part number that NumberDummy gave me is vaild got me the right part.

What a pain to put in, ended up using an adjustable wrench wedged between the cap and the underside of the dash to hold it down so I could turn it to lock in place. Could have done it Friday but I didn't think spending 2.5hrs on the road and $5 in gas was worth saving $6 in shipping charges.

On to my next project: Figuring out just how broken the brakes are
 
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