compression on '65 f100
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compression on '65 f100
just finished a partial rebuild on my new 65 f100 and am having trouble getting it running again. the engine cranks and i'm getting a spark, but it doesn't seem to get proper compression. i tightened the rockers to the 27 ft/lbs called for by chilton, and then readjusted them so they were just tight enough not to shake, but i'm still not getting the engine to catch. any suggestions? supposed to move in a couple of weeks and it would be nice to not have to tow it to the new place...
thanks!
thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Concord, CA
Kind of vague. By proper compression do you mean you checked the compression of the cylinders and they aren't correct? Or is that just a comment to go along with the fact that the engine cranks, has spark, but just doesn't catch? If that is the case then did you remove the distributor when you did your work on the engine? If you did are you sure it is exactly in the right place once again? One tooth off and that could be enough not to start. I known from experience on my engines that is true as each one has done it after R&R of the distributor.
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re: distributor
no, i didn't move the distributor. sorry for not being more specific, i'm still relatively new at this. even though i didn't move it, is there a chance that it could still have become misaligned?
thanks,
elijah
thanks,
elijah
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
If I have not already done so, let me take the opportunity to welcome you to FTE. 
For those occasions when I want to make a quick check of the timing I use an inline park plug tester, and remote starter button, type that connects to start relay and battery, so it can be done from under the hood. Crank engine until #1 just fires on the compression stroke then check the position of the rotor, and timing marks. If don't have a spark plug tester, remove #1 plug and place finger in hole and turn engine, as soon a compression forces finger out check the position of rotor and timing marks. If within limits should be able to get engine running enough to fine tune.
For those occasions when I want to make a quick check of the timing I use an inline park plug tester, and remote starter button, type that connects to start relay and battery, so it can be done from under the hood. Crank engine until #1 just fires on the compression stroke then check the position of the rotor, and timing marks. If don't have a spark plug tester, remove #1 plug and place finger in hole and turn engine, as soon a compression forces finger out check the position of rotor and timing marks. If within limits should be able to get engine running enough to fine tune.
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i only rebuilt the head, cleaned it of 40 years of sludge, that's why i originally pointed to the rockers as the issue because they're the only thing that i think could be improperly tightened at this point. I replaced the head gasket, as well as all those related to the intake/exaust. when i crank the engine by hand, i hear pressure building up then escaping only when the rockers are too loose, when i tighten them just to the point where they don't shake, i still feel pressure building when turning it by hand, but no longer hear it leaking out. the 27 ft/lbs suggested by chilton seemed incorrect, because they were so tight that the springs were compressed all the way whenever a valve was open in the rotation, which led me to tighten them just past the point where they seem secure. I shouldn't have altered the timing because i didn't remove the pistons, or anything past the head for that matter, but i've never adjusted rockers before so i feel like it must be something in relation to that. I'l try the finger test, see where that leaves me. thanks for the direction.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Concord, CA
What Ford engine is this? Since you said head I am assuming you are now referring to a 6 cylinder...?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Concord, CA
Th 240 six cylinder. The way to adjust those valves is by first getting #1 at TDC then make two marks on the damper 120 degrees apart from #1. Now loosen the rocker arm stud nut until there is end clearance (play) in the push rod. Next tighten the nut as you rotate the push rod with your fingers. When play has just been eliminated, in both intake and exhaust, tighten the nuts another 1 1/2 turns only. You are not torquing any nuts here. Then turn the crankshaft in the correct direction to the next mark and adjust cylinder #5, then next mark # 3, back to first position and do # 6, then #2 and last # 4 using your marks. If you torqued those nuts to 27 ft-lbs then I can bet those springs are fully compressed right now.
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