I've used the search function on several sites and I cannot find out what size bolts I need for these two.

I'm pretty sure I can use some bolts off the truck - but I'd rather go purchase new grade 8 bolts.

It's a 360 - I'll attach the hoist to the threads on the heads.

Thanks!

Also - on the hoist there are four settings 1/2 ton 3/4 ton 1 ton etc.

Which should I use for this motor?

 

If I get an answer on this topic - we should add it to the FAQ?

 

I usually use the top bellhousing holes on the block and the ones on the front of the heads. All usually have an existing bolt that will suffice. If you already have the exhaust off the lower exhaust work well too but place something between the chain and valve covers. Another choice is to get a carb plate, they work well and run about 18.00 at the local auto parts. Also the intake bolts will suffice, but I prefer not to untighten these unless going into the engine later

The motor wet weighs about 780lbs, I have lifted many FE's with mine set to 1/2 ton and his gives you more lift. You planning to go over the grill or have you removed the front clip ? I'll strongly suggest the extra 2 hours for 1rst time clip removal.

 

You will probably need longer bolts than what came off the truck for your engine stand. Buy Grade 8. Probably overkill, but there's a lot of tension in those upper bolts since the engine is hanging in a single shear application, so better safe than sorry. And...I'm sorry I can't remember the size, but take one of your bellhousing-to-block bolts with you to the hardware store and find Grade 8 in that size at the length you need. Better to long than too short, you can build up the difference with washers under the bolt heads.

Now, against what I just said, 750 lbs (or as above, 780) is a lot for a man to lift, but nothing for a steel bolt. That's why carb plates work, sometimes with only four 1/4" bolts holding the weight of the engine. But me being extra-ordinarily cautious, won't use one of those and use larger diameter bolts inserted in the heads, block, wherever you can find a spot. Driver's side front of head and passenger rear of head are good places for bolts for you engine hoist. Put another chain along the other diagnol, and use what you can find. I frequently install without intake installed so I can use those bolts holes in the head.

Redmanbob makes a good point...it's easy to run out of lift with a short hoist. Also, it is easy to run out of ceiling room with a hoist, so keep the chains bolted to the block tight and a minimum distance between the hoist end and the engine.

PS: don't use a 3-legged stand

 

Half ton is 1000lbs, the engine is much less than that, divide your total weight by the lift points and any bolt stronger than a nail should be fine, grade 5 is plenty. Bet carb bolts aren't grade 8.

Everybody seems to be in serious overkill mode these days.





John

 

7/16-14 (standard NC) is the thread size in the back if the block for the engine stand mounting
any garden variety bolt, when using four, is plenty strong to safely hold the engine

 

Thanks a lot for the responses - I'm headed out to the garage to pull this pig out! Wish me luck

 

I would most certainly use grade 8 hardware when bolting the engine to the stand. Few years ago I had a fully dressed 406 on my stand with a lesser grade bolts and by the next morning the bolts were bent and the engine was drooping. I went right out and bought grade 8 bolts and end of problem.

 

'Zactly what I do! In the boneyard, in the driveway, same-same. Only thing I do different is that I made some hooks out of 1/4" plate to get a stand-off and a little adjustment from the chain.

The hole in the end of the head takes a 3/8-16 bolt.