Getting ready to purchase an engine hoist and stand for some engine work I'm planning later this summer. The engine will be the 460 in my '76 F350. I'm planning to pull the engine and C6 as a unit, unless someone recommends otherwise. My question is, will a 1-ton capacity hoist and stand be sufficient, or should I opt for something with a little more capacity. Also, can anyone give me a ballpark "gestimate" for how much clearance I'll need under the truck in order to remove/install the engine and transmission as a unit.

Thanks

 

Fully dressed 460 will weigh in at 625lbs, C6 will roughly be 250lbs. So 875 lbs is well below the one ton limit.

 

clearance under the truck? Zero. The engine comes out of the top.

 

^^^Just caught that...why get a hoist if you're gonna try to pull the engine out the bottom? Which, btw, isn't advisable to try.

 

When I put my 351W and C6 in my '78 I did it with the truck sitting flat...I'm not a big guy, so I could slide under the truck with ease...but I have also helped on vehicles where they had the front end on jack stands or ramps...guess a lot depends on your size...and comfort level. The Transmission support was the toughest part, but still wasn't horrible...

 

I think some of you must have thought I was planning to drop the engine out the bottom--no,no, never. My question re. clearance was because of the extra clearance needed when you remove the engine and trans as a unit. You have to tilt the engine, i.e., lower the trans tailshaft, as you lift and move forward with the engine. You have to do it this way if you don't remove the front clip. So does anyone want to "guesstimate" how many inches, if any, I need to raise the truck to get clearance for the trans tailshaft.

Thanks

 

you will gain a lot of clearance as soon as you pick up the motor as the springs will lift the front when you take the weight off of them I have done a few and never had to raise them

 

As I stated earlier, I did mine with my truck sitting as it was...this is a picture right after the engine and transmission had been placed back in the truck...

As a disclaimer...this may not be the best way to do it, but it worked for me...

The clearance on the tail shaft will possibly be the only main issue, but as you can see from my pics, I put the rear of my truck up on ramps...you will just need to take your time and be patient...make sure you have help when you go to re-install. I think I ended up using a 4x4 block, and a floor jack to get the transmission back up into place...also as you can tell I did mine in the backyard. For sliding in and out I used a tarp, when lifting the transmission back into place with floor jack, I used a piece of plywood...I will also tell you from experience...make sure to have your lift points closer to the front of the engine block...I ended up using a engine hoist, as well as a come-along (attached to the rear of the block, that way I could tighten and loosen it as needed)...and make sure you drain ALL the fluid out of the transmission...when you tilt it up to remove and replace it, it will come pouring out of the tail shaft...and if it hasn't been said before, you will gain extra clearance when you take the weight off the front springs.

And if I am not mistaken, I don't believe the front clips are designed to be removed on our model trucks or recommended to be removed...can't remember where I heard that or read it, but I think that is correct...(please correct me if I am in-correct)

 

Front clips come off easily............

 

Caleb... Thanks for your thorough reply; just what I needed to get ready for my job.

 

No problem. I did pull everything I could off the engine before I pulled it and put it back in...if I remember correctly the starter was the biggest thong in the way. I used duct tape to cover the hole (again, probably better ways, bit it kept it clean). Pull the fan, alternator, carb, power steering pump. I left the manifolds on, didn't have any clearance issues with them. The truck side, I pulled the radiator and hood; also make sure you have a good free rolling engine hoist and surface, I lined under my truck and in front of it with plywood, so the hoist could roll freely; or make sure you can roll the truck...engine and trans together weigh a lot!,take good pics (or have someone that will for you) and let us know how it goes.

 

Yeah...that is what I was thinking...and I've never had to raise a dentside to gain clearance.

 

You should be fine with a 1ton hoist. I have a 1 ton hoist I got at the Harbor Freight store. I use it lift machinery around a lot and lifted well over 1k lbs with the beam all the way out for reach and bent it.(Don't recommend that) Replaced the bent tube with a heavier tube and a larger hook. You'll be fine lifting that 460.

 

1) The engine hoist is probably rated one ton in it's shortest position. When the beam is stretched out to get it where it needs to be, the rating will be much less. It should still be enough to handle both the engine and transmission.
2) I frequently pull the front clip when changing engines. You still need to remove the starter to clear the engine mount, but everything else should be able to remain on the engine. You do not need to lift the engine as high. There will be no damage to the sheet metal. If you are making any modifications the frame, firewall, etc. are all easily accessible.

 

I never jack my truck up,lot's of room for me. I do remove the clip mainly because i don't have enough head room above to make the engine clear. I just stick a old drive shaft yoke in the trany and not drain the fluid. My cherry picker hoist is used only to move the engines around the shop. I use a 1/2 ton chain hoist secured to a big eyebolt from a huge beam in my attic. I have lifted ,400s,351s,292yblocks, inline 6s, and the 460 ,not stripped with a c/6 . If i was buying a chain hoist again,which i won't be doing. I would get a 1 ton one just to make the chain pull with less effort . 1/2 ton will lift ,but i have to throw all my weight on it ,and thats kinda hard on the old hands nowdays.