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Sounds funny but I swear my radiator is too big. My 1991 F590F Super Duty will never warm up past 25%. I think the needle should be around the middle or just a bit lower right? Weather its 124 degrees outside or 55 below zero here in MN. Winter is coming and I don't want to be driving a luke warm truck again. It just sucks. I changed the thermostat and last winter I covered most of the radiator and it never changed. Last winter I had the entire radiator covered up and I let the truck idle all day long and nothing, no change. Everything was still luke warm to cool. I am thinking that there is just too much liquid for the diesel to keep nice and hot. I am thinking of maybe downsizing the radiator to a 1 ton radiator instead of my "5 ton" radiator. Anybody have any thoughts on this
In 2 years of owning my f-250 IDI Turbo the only time I saw the temp needle move above the "N" of normal was when the serpentine belt got tossed when the tensioner broke and I lost my water pump dragging *** up a hill.
If your thermostat works I would think you are fine.
Maybe we should trade radiators... I think mine is a little clogged, I get a little over the middle when towing up a large hill, but never too hot.
I had a 1985 Isuzu Trooper with a 1.9 liter engine, woefully underpowered. The water jacket around the engine was too big... After I was at operating temperature while moving, in the cold, when I came to a stop and idled the temperature gauge would drop... It had a lot of window area and even if the engine was at temperature it could not heat the cab. Had to wear gloves and a hat all winter...
My 1985 F250 gets fairly toasty in the winter, it does take a while to get up to temperature.
Perhaps you can buy a hotter thermostat? If the thermostat closes you should be in good shape... Having it sit at an idle does not put it under a load and therefore will be the slowest way to get it to temperature, or maintain temperature.
I wonder if taking some of the water out would help? Maybe just a quarter of the fluid, only enough so that the water pump would not cavitate? Or, would that mess with pressures and cause boil over? (Just thinking out loud)
I would not trust a 20 year old ford gauge. Try installing an aftermarket gauge. If it still reads cold then install a new thermostat. Yours may be stuck open. Only buy one from ford or IH. The thermostat will regulate the coolent temp in the engine, regardless of the radiator being to big.
A diesel at idle makes very little heat, to make heat you have to work the engine.
70 degrees today, if I let the engine idle for 15 minutes, my pyrometer would be sitting on 150 degrees.
The thermocouple is located right in an exhaust port.
However when I am plowing snow at below zero temps, I usually have the window rolled down so I can keep the defroster blowing without getting to hot.
Something is wrong with your thermostat or heater core if the heater won't run you out of the cab.
I would agree with thermostate needing to be changed. Also in winter you can put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to decrease the airflow to help heat the truck. "WARNING" If you do this - keep a close eye on the guages so you don"t overheat.
Yep, I'd say change out the thermostat for the highest temp one they offer stock.
If you do all the work it takes to get to the point of pulling it for testing, why bother putting anything but a new one?
I used some aluminum flashing and covered the front of the grill blocking it off and I still have a hell of a time getting it to warm up in the winter!
I also used the place where the blue oval was to mount my block heater plug.
I put a grille blanket on when it gets around 40s steady. It's more for the trans cooler tho, not so much for the radiator - I have no problem toasting the cab even at low blower fan speed. Yet every time I let off the throttle and start rolling downhill I can see the temp gauge drop from the "R" down to the "O" letter of "Normal", and it's perfectly normal considering that at idle there's very little fuel burned so fairly little heat is produced.