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hey everybody got some decent numbers out of the mustang last weekend 14.1@ 99.8. still working on som carb issues,think i have it a little under cammed. basically its a 351C .030" over, flat tops compression is 10.7:1 with 4v closed chamber heads. torker intake. cam is .530/.530...247*/252* @.050" 108 lsa. pulls 2500-6500. thinkin about going to a .608/.608... 252*/261* @.050" 102 lsa pulls 3000-7500. im runnin a 4 speed manual, with 4.56's. i have the compression and gear to support the bigger cam. open to any input or info... thanks
sounds like an awesome build......just wondering is the cam hydrolic or mech. flat tappet........I had the same set up in my 78 mustang cobra......the cam I used was a comp. 589-615 256-266@50 ( 108 ) mech flat tappet the car ran 11.70's all day long and I drove it on the street everyday to work I had a 5spd in mine and 4:62 gears with spool.....
dragon-squire...cam i have now is hydraulic. the one i want is solid flat. posi is worn is the sppol pretty streetable? i drive this one everyday as well thanks again
mr.mischief...have not done a desktop dyno how would i go about doing that? posi is weak and the clutch is slipping a bit. the cam is 4* advanced if im not mistaken, and i run 10.5* adv at idle and a total adv of 34*. thanks for the help
i downloaded the program from a file sharing network, but you put in the important information, (head flow rates are very helpful, as well as valve opening/closing degrees) & basically 'build' your engine in a computer program.
i wouldn't get too hung up on the horsepower numbers, they're a little exaggerated, but it can help with cam/ignition timing & lets you tweak things like compression ratio or whatever on the fly...
do you have the valvesprings/bottom end to pull off 7500rpm runs?
what's 'streetable' varies from one person to another, spools are for going straight. maybe a locker style center is what you need? there are true Detroit locker carriers and then there are retrofit center kits that you can install into your Trac-Loc carrier. the retrofit kits are said to hold up very well.
as far as the cam swap, there's a lot to look at. you can try a set of 1.8 rockers to see if more lift actually helps at all before biting the bullet. chances are the heads will need to be checked for spring bind, retainer/guide interference, piston clearance and all that good stuff.
i'd work out the known issues like the carb you mentioned before sidestepping them and possibly creating more
You can play around with cams but the fact remains the ex port is crap in them. Back in their day you couldn't find a prostocker without ex port plates. I'd be just as concerened with opening and closing points as lift, dur, ctr line. It would help in selecting a cam if you had your heads flowed. Did you degree in the cam ?
What carb is on it ?
dragon-squire...cam i have now is hydraulic. the one i want is solid flat. posi is worn is the sppol pretty streetable? i drive this one everyday as well thanks again
Well boss351 Spools are fun in all but a good posi is the best way to go....I was younger and I didn't care about ride quality back then but in todays tech stuff a spool is very old school for the street....nice conversation piece when you pull into a hangout or show but not as fun to drive today.....my heads were pretty much stock....just a little bowl work stock valves no porting....the heads do flow 300 intake. 170-180 ex. out of the box.. The heads I have now frow 357 intake and 220 ex. with very mild clean up and bowl work.....mainly just unshrouding. run a good distributor......good wires and make sure you're not loosing volts as rpm start getting up there that would cause missfire top end. check valve springs and binding.........installed hight with clev. are mim, 1.850 - 1.900 with just about anything up to 650 lift. match springs to cam and it all should be good.....run about 12-14 in. timing and no more that 36 total.....
i downloaded the program from a file sharing network, but you put in the important information, (head flow rates are very helpful, as well as valve opening/closing degrees) & basically 'build' your engine in a computer program.
i wouldn't get too hung up on the horsepower numbers, they're a little exaggerated, but it can help with cam/ignition timing & lets you tweak things like compression ratio or whatever on the fly...
do you have the valvesprings/bottom end to pull off 7500rpm runs?
bottom end will hold the block was an original 4 bolt i have arp bolts on the mains. the heads will have to be re springed for the new cam though a few people i talked to said the closed chamber heads arent worth a damn on the big end, i figured cause of the bigger valves they would be better, also it seems to pull real nice on the top end.
You can play around with cams but the fact remains the ex port is crap in them. Back in their day you couldn't find a prostocker without ex port plates. I'd be just as concerened with opening and closing points as lift, dur, ctr line. It would help in selecting a cam if you had your heads flowed. Did you degree in the cam ?
What carb is on it ?
yeah the cam was degreed the carb is a holley 830 double pumper
Why the 4 speed ? I know they are fun on the street but in a race car they are a waste of time, literally.
just what came with the car. i drive it every other day or so, so its not just a track car. not really looking for consistency just a quick street car and weekend racer
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