hello everyone,
i got a 1989 351 w with a throttle body thats given me nothing but grief. would like any input on making the change whether pros or cons or opinions. i picked up a msd billet distibutor, as well as an old holly annihalator ignition r they compatible or should i go with msd as well got them both for nothing, distributor still in box. had this truck for about 9 years used it for work painted it and replaced the motor with a 94 motor with 8800 miles on it, now has about 50,000. looking to hop it up some,
..........thanks
nitwit

 

thanks anyway

 

Sorry you didn`t get any replies. If you do a search the swap to carb has been covered many times. I think the general opinion is that overall sticking with EFI is better. You get a quite good self test of faults with EFI and there are some things you can do to increase performance. Hopefully some of the experts will chime in on that.
If you go to fordfuelinjection.com it makes an interesting read.

 

the possibilities are endless if you put a carb on it right now my combo is a 306 with trickflow fast as cast heads victor jr. intake 750 carb msd e-curve dissy custom roller cam comp cams pro gold rockers comp roller lifters (if you want to buy my systemax kit (b351 roller rockers holley valve covers holley systemax heads lunati roller cam (for the systemax kit) and pushrods) let me know it's for sale for $1000 might need new valve guides which arn't that expensive at a machine shop to get installed)

how expensive do you think it would be to get an efi intake + throttle body + mass air + injectors + lower efi intake to support those heads and cam? i'm guessing well over the $600 i paid for my carb and intake

 

How about starting by describing what grief you are having? Many issues with these EFI motors can be traced to things like vacuum leaks or fuel delivery problems, and fixing those will be cheaper and easier than a carb conversion. There have been a lot of people come through here that have sucessfully fixed all sorts of problems with the help of the members here, those that don't succeed often simply refuse follow the advice given for whatever reason.. can't help people that don't want to be helped.

As for upgrading the motor it just depends what your goals are. A simple cam and exhaust upgrade is all that's needed to get quite a bit more power out of the existing motor.. no other changes necessary. If you want double the power then that gets expensive no matter what induction you use because new heads will be necessary. But it is certainly possible with EFI, cost comes down to your resourcefulness and skills, if you can scrounge a junkyard and do some basic wiring you can have a system with almost no limits for very little $$.

 

hope im not comin off as sarcastic , my post stated i had a msd billett dist. with a holly annihalator were they compatable, or should i go with an msd ignition as well, while im impressed with t birds modifacations as i stated i was just lookin to hop it up a bit.
im committed to switchin over and wanted to know if anyone had done it,
if opinions , pros and cons. have a carb already, intake and fuel regulator next already have custom dual exhaust and am considering headers, i dont know not trin to get off to bad start....thanks

nitwit

 

If you are upset that no one replied to your original post, it very well could be because it doesn't make any sense.

If you use some Capitalization at the start of your "sentences," and use some correct punctuation and proper words, it makes it easier for others to understand what you are talking about.

It's called "Effective Communication."

I look at it like this. If the poster doesn't feel it important enough to make his thoughts clear to the reader, why should the reader feel it is important enough to reply back?

 

I somewhat agree with Otto here....
It is not enough to make me not want to offer advice if I can..but, effective communication will go a long way to helping a poster solve their issue(s).
Sentences strung together with no punctuation makes it hard to understand sometimes.
Having said that...
I also agree with Conanski as to you need to be a little...ok, a lot more clear on what you want.
As stated, the efi problems can likely easily be cleared up with help from members here and at lest cost & effort than a carb swap. However, since I'm guessing that is the old engine, so what you what to know is if you can beef up the old engine with the new parts....but you don't state which engine you want to beef up.
I think I'd go with the 94 that has 59000 miles on it.

Again, if you want help here...you'll find it. Sometimes you need to be patient, as members are not always online at all times.

Post some more details and I'm sure you'll find the help you need.

 

what you need to do to swap to a carb is run a bypass fuel pressure regulator and run a 3/8ths or -6an return line back to the tank you want to use then you need to get a carb intake, the dissy you have will work but i'm not sure if it will work with the holley aniliator ignition box (that is an ignition box or is that the bolt on fuel injection system?) i have never used a holley ignition box on anything i have ever built, that's not to say they arn't good but i just don't have any experiance with them so i don't know if they will work with your dissy maybe call msd and ask. you will also need a carb and some braided -6an fuel line to go from the fuel filter on the frame up to the fuel pressure regulator then braided line to go back to the tank or 3/8ths hard line back to the tank, if you are serious i can give you all the fittings you need to connect to the fuel filter and to connect to the fuel tank russell makes them and they are for a lt1 and ls1 i beleive but they work with our trucks. if you just run a dead head regulator you WILL burn out your high pressure fuel pump. you will also need to find the pink? wire that goes into the enertia switch on the firewall right behind the brake pedal inside the cab and run a switched power wire to it to power up the fuel pumps. you should do a smog delete pulley if you do all of this as well and plug the back of your heads, for the carb if you have a basically stock 302 use like a 570-650 carb if you have a 351 use a 650-750 carb anything more will be overcarbed and your throttle response will suffer. the power wire going to your distributor is the white one that has multiple splices on it, i used one for my electric choke and the other went to my dissy and one is just cut with electrical tape wrapped around it

i don't think i forgot anything

ps: you MUST use -an braided hoses since there is around 40lbs of pressure going to the regulator and it's just not safe to run anything else that close to your headers anyway

 

thanks t bird , i think i will just go with msd dist. the annihalater by holly is no longer made, found some reviews both good and bad, but u cant get parts for it. thank you for the other info! nitwit

 

if you havn't bought the dissy yet get an e-curve dissy, that way you don't have springs shooting every which way when you are trying to set your advance curve and it's a lot easier to tune as well and you don't need an ignition box, the dissy + coil is expensive but compare the price of a dissy + coil + ignition box and you'll see where i am coming from i think it saves you like $50 or so

and if you want the part #s for the fuel fittings i can get them for you

 

The MSD dizzy and Holley Annihilator ignition box work fine together. I ran that setup for years until the Holley started to fail, then replaced it with the 6AL.
A 650 carb is all you need for a stock to mild street 351.