Help wont start
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Help wont start
<!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> I just did the 3G Upgrade and now it wont start. I turn the key on and get nothing. I can jump it over at the solenoid and get it to crank but thats it. The green wire with red tracer is not even hot now with the key on but it was before the upgrade. Maybe I cut the wire back to far after the key on power wire split into other wires.....I need my truck tomorrow morning to get to work, I need to hurry and figure it out....I am getting no power into the cab
I have the yellow wire on the 3 wire plug going back into the alternator plug via the B+ Terminal.
The S wire which is white goes to the stator, and the I wire which is green with red tracer going to the key on power.
I was getting power when I turned on the key before the switch, checked it at the green with red tracer wire....
I have the yellow wire on the 3 wire plug going back into the alternator plug via the B+ Terminal.
The S wire which is white goes to the stator, and the I wire which is green with red tracer going to the key on power.
I was getting power when I turned on the key before the switch, checked it at the green with red tracer wire....
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Now power to the cab?
Check out these wires on the passenger side inner fender (mainly this connector). I bypassed the connector and my problem was solved.
Look for signs of melting or corrosion, because they are often time bombs in terms of how they fail after 20 years.
In my case, the problem showed itself when ever there was a slight spike in electrical load like turn signals or head lights turning on. The clock radio would reset everytime and one time it even cut out for a split second while signaling for a lane change at night on the highway. Dave pointed me in the right direction that time and I found the connector warm to the touch next morning.
You will find the connector near the regulator.
Check out these wires on the passenger side inner fender (mainly this connector). I bypassed the connector and my problem was solved.
Look for signs of melting or corrosion, because they are often time bombs in terms of how they fail after 20 years.
In my case, the problem showed itself when ever there was a slight spike in electrical load like turn signals or head lights turning on. The clock radio would reset everytime and one time it even cut out for a split second while signaling for a lane change at night on the highway. Dave pointed me in the right direction that time and I found the connector warm to the touch next morning.
You will find the connector near the regulator.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Well since Im doing the 3G upgrade Im dealing with a JY Alternator, im heading to Autozone to get it tested...Would a bad regulator on the Alternator make it not get power to the cab...I am getting the constant power to the Alternator but its not making its way to the cab...
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
I believe the alternator is parallel wired in our trucks, so no it shouldn't cause that kind of power failure.
A more powerful alternator would put more load on that connector though. Seriously, check that while you still have dailight today. Doesn't take much time to rule that out.
A more powerful alternator would put more load on that connector though. Seriously, check that while you still have dailight today. Doesn't take much time to rule that out.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Got back from Autozone and the Alternator failed all 3 testes, he guy seemed like he knew what he was talking about to, he tested it 3 different times and failed all 3 times...
He said its cause its a bad alternator,I told him I was getting power to the alternator but not coming out of it. I also told him I could jump it over at the solenoid, and along with taking the green/red tracer wire off and hitting it on the hot side of the battery.
They have one in stock for $150 something, I really don't have the extra $150 so I guess its back to the junkyard to try another one, but its getting tested before I even leave the town cause there is an AZ right next to the JY.
He said its cause its a bad alternator,I told him I was getting power to the alternator but not coming out of it. I also told him I could jump it over at the solenoid, and along with taking the green/red tracer wire off and hitting it on the hot side of the battery.
They have one in stock for $150 something, I really don't have the extra $150 so I guess its back to the junkyard to try another one, but its getting tested before I even leave the town cause there is an AZ right next to the JY.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,808
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati Ohio
Now power to the cab?
Check out these wires on the passenger side inner fender (mainly this connector). I bypassed the connector and my problem was solved.
Look for signs of melting or corrosion, because they are often time bombs in terms of how they fail after 20 years.
In my case, the problem showed itself when ever there was a slight spike in electrical load like turn signals or head lights turning on. The clock radio would reset everytime and one time it even cut out for a split second while signaling for a lane change at night on the highway. Dave pointed me in the right direction that time and I found the connector warm to the touch next morning.
You will find the connector near the regulator.
Check out these wires on the passenger side inner fender (mainly this connector). I bypassed the connector and my problem was solved.
Look for signs of melting or corrosion, because they are often time bombs in terms of how they fail after 20 years.
In my case, the problem showed itself when ever there was a slight spike in electrical load like turn signals or head lights turning on. The clock radio would reset everytime and one time it even cut out for a split second while signaling for a lane change at night on the highway. Dave pointed me in the right direction that time and I found the connector warm to the touch next morning.
You will find the connector near the regulator.
I dont have that connector anymore Dave I had the problem long ago like you had and by passed it previously.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Oh. Well forget that then.
What about your ground straps on the engine and the body? There should be a strap tying the rear of the engine to the firewall. Sometimes those can get corrode and stop current.
What about your ground straps on the engine and the body? There should be a strap tying the rear of the engine to the firewall. Sometimes those can get corrode and stop current.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
PROBLEM FIXED!!!! Gotta say I am happy about how the 3G operates, no more flashy lights, there brighter and steady. Only set be back $160.00
The problem was a missing constant power wire to power my truck, it was the thick gauge yellow wire, ran it straight to the battery.
The problem was a missing constant power wire to power my truck, it was the thick gauge yellow wire, ran it straight to the battery.
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