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hey yall, my name is Ken, I have a 94 F150 with a 300 I6 Im either having low oil pressure or the sensor is about shot. mine reads somewhere before the "N" in NORMAL on the gauge. im thinking that the sensor is going out. because my truck doesnt knock or tick or anything of that sorts. i change the oil as regularly as possible only using OEM recommended oil 5w20. now it does work because when i change my oil and the pump primes the filter the gauge sweeps from L to right before the "N" and stays there its rarely ever moves altho it does move sometimes but hardley if any.
Keep in mind you are looking at the "IDIOT LIGHT" if the truck senses oil pressure it will kick the guage on... What you need is an actual mechanicle oil pressure guage. Look around online for an "auto meter" brand mechanicle oil pressure guage and wire it up inside your cab. It's the ONLY way you will get real time oil pressure, and to actually know if your not getting the proper amount of oil flow. They are cheap enough and will aid you in the future... if you want to make it all pretty...LMC Truck Parts - Page 86
hey my truck aint that bad lol just needs a little body work thats all. a dent in the fron fender and rusted out rear fenders just a little but aint that bad at all.
well see heres the thing, my friend has the same truck i do. down to the same engine.. but his oil gauge seems to work right. well it runs smack dab in the middle. but maybe its because hes running 10w30 or 10w40.. im wondering if the sending unit may have gone bad?? also changed my plugs today and got a tach.. everything went swell putting in the new plugs other than 2 stubborn ones...
well see heres the thing, my friend has the same truck i do. down to the same engine.. but his oil gauge seems to work right. well it runs smack dab in the middle. but maybe its because hes running 10w30 or 10w40.. im wondering if the sending unit may have gone bad?? also changed my plugs today and got a tach.. everything went swell putting in the new plugs other than 2 stubborn ones...
Ken, you gotta remember that isn't a real gauge in the dash-it's just a glorified idiot light. The 'sender' is just a switch that needs 7 psi to close. The 'gauge' in the dash has a 20 ohm resistor across it to force it to read 1/2 gauge when the switch is in the closed position.
Since you said you have no knocks or ticks, we can guess you have oil pressure. How much pressure would only be determined with a real oil pressure gauge.
Most likely your switch is going out or it has a bad connection.
Somewhere on the forum is a tutorial/how-to concerning making that 'ididot light' work like an actual gauge. It involves jumping out the resistor and using a real sending unit instead of a switch.
yeah im almost guarenteeting that the switch is going out... now that you tell me that.. im headed to MO just had my oil changed recently... and i just checked it today and everything looks fantastic. also put new plugs in taday too and that seems to make it run better WAY better...
Somewhere on the forum is a tutorial/how-to concerning making that 'ididot light' work like an actual gauge. It involves jumping out the resistor and using a real sending unit instead of a switch.
Ray
I don't suppose you know or remember the title of that thread do you??? I'm about to put the mechanicle guage in mine and would rather rewire the dash (if it's easier) instead of getting a A-pilar guage cluster... Please let me know if you find it!
I have found that the connection to the sending unit has gotten a little loose at times causing my oil pressure (gauge) to drop really low, even causing the dummy light to come on. Squeezing the contact in the wire "just a tad" to make a more solid connection made it all better. Trying this or replacing the sending unit is sure a lot easier than dropping the pan to find nothing wrong.
Half way down there's mention of the 45 degree adaptor and a picture of the sending unit. The Echlin number is is earlier in the post. In my case with 95 302 I had to bring the 45 degree adaptor out further and did that with the addition of two M-F brass fittings. When the older style sending unit is installed, it will give a variable output. The 20 ohm resistor that is in series with the oil pressure gauge input at the back of the console need to be jumpered out so the resistor is out of the circuit to the gauge.
Half way down there's mention of the 45 degree adaptor and a picture of the sending unit. The Echlin number is is earlier in the post. In my case with 95 302 I had to bring the 45 degree adaptor out further and did that with the addition of two M-F brass fittings. When the older style sending unit is installed, it will give a variable output. The 20 ohm resistor that is in series with the oil pressure gauge input at the back of the console need to be jumpered out so the resistor is out of the circuit to the gauge.
Seems pretty easy... I could do that! I am guessing this could also apply to my 300 I6... Does anyone have a picture of the resistor/ resistor location??? I'd have no idea what it looks like but would have no problem soldering in 1 piece of wire to jump the resistor! How much is a new sending unit?