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Tranny Problems... Solutions?

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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #1  
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Tranny Problems... Solutions?

I just bought a 2002 F250 with 200k on it. Dsl of course. Anyways I think it has the original tranny in it and I knew this would be a problem that I would have to deal with. The tranny *clunks* between gears somewhat to agressively. I know it's a truck but this is just way too rugged of a gear change.

My question is: is there any way to prolong the need for a rebuild? Will changing the fluids help smoothness at all? Any tranny cocktail gimmick I can toss in there to make things a bit better?

Thanks,
Scott
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 05:03 AM
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Changing the fluid usually will make it shift smoother.

There could be reasons it is shifting hard that a fluid change won't help. There could be a stuck accumulator valve, or a bad pressure control solenoid, etc.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 05:42 AM
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Mark -

Could it possibly also be that there is either a chip on the ECU, or that a prior owner used a programmer that is affecting the shifting? Maybe even a shift kit/valve body of some sort?

Scott -

do you know the prior owner by any chance? any way to find out of the truck was modified at all, especially in regards to a programmer?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 12:11 PM
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Yes I could call the PO and see but I doubt it, everything on the truck was bone stock and it seems even general matainance was disregarded. I'll start by changing the tranny fluid, after that I need to look into replacing parts. It really *clunks* into gear from time to time. Most of the time it just feels like a clutch drop in between gears on a manual.

Could it be that the gears are just that worn down? A failing u-joint wouldn't put all this clunking through the drive-train between gears would it?

Thanks guys I really do appreciate it!
Scott
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 02:40 PM
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Congrats on the "new" truck Scott!
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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I was thinking the same thing, shift kit or performance VB until you said bone stock. What I would do is change all the fluids, start off fresh.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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It could be A bad U-joint or a dry slip joint, even a bad rubber mount on the center carrier bearing. This is all stuff you will need to check out any way being a new ( to you ) truck.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 12:27 AM
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Well I bought some of this... http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...smission%20Fix

But I think I'm going to return it based on what I've read it's a complete gimmick. Hopefully it is not the trans. but regardless I'm gonna change the fluid this weekend.

Thanks for all the input guys I do appreciate it
-Scott
 
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 08:12 AM
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Pay close attention to what Mark Kovalski said above.

The line pressure modulator valve has a tendency to "stick" at high mileages, causing erratic shifting points. Since it's common, Sonnax has developed a fix, and it's easy to install yourself if you're mechanically-inclined.

It wouldn't hurt to drop the pan anyway on your first oil change, just to see what's in there, and to clean the ring magnet around the drain plug.

See:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=3

Pop
 
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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Will it become apparent where this part "goes" onceI drop the pan? I've never really worked on an auto tranny before. If you've done it before how long of a job is it? I don't actually have to start pulling gears etc to gain access do I?

Thanks,
Scott
 
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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How do I know if I have a low or deep oilpan? Can you tell by looking at it? Maybe some one can inform me. Maybe it has a small leak to boot lol =(
<BR><BR>

 
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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. Subscribing.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by beefey
Will it become apparent where this part "goes" onceI drop the pan? I've never really worked on an auto tranny before. If you've done it before how long of a job is it? I don't actually have to start pulling gears etc to gain access do I?
The instructions that come with the kit are pretty comprehensive, and it should take about three hours, beginning to end, if you're slow.

The "valve body" is essentially in two pieces, and you'll be pulling one part down by unbolting it. There are no ***** inside to lose or screw up. Only special tool you'll need is an inch-pound torque wrench to put it back together properly.

You should plan to change the fluid at the same time.

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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by beefey
How do I know if I have a low or deep oilpan? Can you tell by looking at it? Maybe some one can inform me. Maybe it has a small leak to boot lol =(
<BR><BR>

That's your oil pan, the shallow/deep pan is the trans pan. Looking at the oil pan, I think you have some serious cleaning to do so you can figure out where all that crud came from!
 
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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x2 on the cleaning...
 
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