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As the title suggests My a/c started acting up a couple days ago.
Anybody out there an A/C pro? I need one.
During my 30 minute trip home from work the past two days I noticed something strange. The a/c will be plenty cold then it will start to smell like a defrosting fridge and the air will not be cold. Then it will just start getting cold again.
My 30 minute drive consists of about 15 minutes interstate and 15 minutes redlight traffic.
The first day it did this is when I was in stop and go traffic with the redlights. I dismissed it because there was little air flow and it got cooler when I started moving.
The second day it did it while I was traveling on the interstate. It was cold at first then got warmer then after a couple miles got cold again.
Also when it gets warm I don't mean warm like the heater is on, more like it is just warmer than a/c but a bit cooler than the vent.
I also don't think it is the vacuum because it still blows thru the vents and not the defrost.
Also the Fords use to have a weak link in the condenser tube farrel connection in front of the radiator that can leak. The factory unit also came with some weak clutches on the Compressor. Check the wiring connection at the Compressor for issues. Vacuum leaks can swap the air flow around, so basically there is a multitude of issues that could be a contributor, to include in line filter fouling. But check the other posting area out and you should get some more help.
One of the first things they will want is ambient air temperature and suction and discharge pressures.
Rocky,
Thanks. I will have to get out there tomorrow after 0800 am soccer practice. Not mine BTW. Anyway an update. I came hoem today with absolutely no a/c at all.
I can get ambient air temps. But what is suction and discharge pressures and where do I take those measurements and how?
Neal it sounds like it was cycling.
Take a look around for oil, usually when theres a leak youll see oil, or you could try putting soap and bubbles on some connections and look for bubbles.
To get the suction pressure you would hook a gauge up to the bigger of the 2 refrigeration lines, should be insulation on this line as well.
I forget how its layed out on our trucks, but I THINK the suction line is the one that runs by the firewall and comes into the back of the compressor if your standing in front of the truck.
Discharge line will be the smaller diameter line.
you might need a clutch. As the A/C clutch gets older it loses it's ability to pull in the plate on the comperssor in when hot. As soon as it cools a little it will work again. A quick check is to drive till the A/C stops working, stop & kill the engine, turn the key on with the engine off & push on the frt. plate in & see if it grabs. if it grabs then you need a clutch.
Rocky,
Thanks. I will have to get out there tomorrow after 0800 am soccer practice. Not mine BTW. Anyway an update. I came hoem today with absolutely no a/c at all.
I can get ambient air temps. But what is suction and discharge pressures and where do I take those measurements and how?
Thanks alot Rocky.
Not good, if your clutch is not engaging then you either have bad wires, weak clutch magnets or #1 no refrigerant or no pressure. Go get some refrigerant with dye and recharge it and look for leaks. If you are running it then the leaks will only show up on the discharge line (high pressure) but you can turn it off and the system pressure will equalize across and you can check for leaks on the suction side (low pressure). Recharging with can of refrigerant should help you troubleshoot but it will not remove the non-condensables from the system (air), so the system will not operate by design pressures until the air is removed and its properly charged. If you dont have gauges you can buy a gauge and then buy the refrigerant. I think your system is a R-134 like mine. Your actually lucky on the lenght of time it lasted, mine crapped out in 3 yrs. I replaced the core and pulled a vac and recharged it and its been good for 8 yrs now.
Then here is some DIY study material
Check this out. http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...Gf8MP1c&page=2
Rocky
Neal, do you have any refrigeration gauges? You'll need the 134a adapters as well. Chances are you are low on refrigerant, the compressor will cycle off on low pressure (to safe gaurd) which sounds like what is going on. If the leak is big enuf you can soap bubble the joints, lines, etc. Both sides will be under pressure the suction side should not be under vaccum during operation so you will see bubbles. For a 40* coil you should have roughly 35psi on the low side. With all the more these systems hold a leak wouldn't have to be very big to go flat.
I agree that you are probably low on refrigerant. You can add a can of refrigerant yourself. You must fill the system using the schrader valve on the LOW PRESSURE side. It will be the larger of the two lines. If you do not have gauges,or feel comfortable doing this, most a/c shops charge about 50-75 dollars to properly fill your system purging the air and making it run like new again.
. If you are running it then the leaks will only show up on the discharge line (high pressure) but you can turn it off and the system pressure will equalize across and you can check for leaks on the suction side (low pressure).
You can have a leak on the low side show up wiht it running. As long as its not running in a vacuum the leak should show up.
Thanks guys. I will start to diagnose tomorrow after church. I had a day trip to make today with the wife. Please stay tuned. I may need som help tomorrow. I don't have gauges but I do have Harbor Freight almost across the street.
Thanks for the tips. I am going to start with electrical then clutch then pressures/leaks. In that order.
IIRC the LPS (low pressure switch) is located on the PS of the engine compt near the accumulator. You'll be able to tell with a test light or meter if it's dropping out.
Just a suggestion I had this on mine sounds like the exact same thing start the truck and open the hood turn the a/c on and wiggle the plug to the high presure switch, if it comes on there ya go the replacement from the Ford dealer $40.00 bucks easy to change, the plug is located on the aluminum tube right back by the compressor. Good Luck
What happens is it loses connection due to wear on the plug itself.