Anybody see any draw back in plumbing CCV into exhaust, I never installed pyro and downpipe is tapped........

 

There has been threads on this discusion and from what I read, it isn't a good idea, a bump for more solid answers.

 

I believe it creates too much backpressure.

And you'd probably want to not use the bung on your downpipe for your pyro. That's post-turbo and typically it would be mounted pre-turbo.

 

Shouldn't be an issue as long as its toward the end of your exhaust (after muffler)..

I have mine plumbed into the fresh air vent that goes into the cab.

 

LOL!!! Are you serious???

 

Otto -- that has been tested with pressure/vacuum gauges on the engine, and the pressure goes *UP* in the engine when the CCV is plumbed into the exhaust, no matter how or where it was done (yes, even at the end of the tail pipe).

I would strongly suggest you avoid doing it. Mine is run all the way out by the tail pipe through a hose, and so far, no issues. It was the first mod I ever did back in Feb/March of '07 -- shortly before I met you down in PC. It's still there and still working...

 

No, just kidding.. Mine goes to the back of the truck and vents by the spare tire.

 

Thanka for replies . I run it down frame ,and to a vented collector. Just trying to avoid WORK. maybe turn it into a hooka

 

For a little more work and a few bucks more you could have a closed system that does not stink when you are sitting at a light.

For example (photo):

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - cavitation's Album: Closed system CCV re-route

 

You could vent it through the exhaust as long as it was introduced via a venturi. Very simple, just some mild metal work for the exhaust pipe. Then the flow of exhaust, through the venturi (pressure gradient), would create a vacuum for the CCV.

 

I think you may have a problem at idle or low speed, not enough exhaust flow to creatate the pressure gradient needed to make the needed vacuum. just my .02 cents

 

Cavitation, where did you come up with the collection unit? I may change mine to something like you made. good looking setup.

 

Thanks bfife. The collection unit can be ordered from McMaster-Carr online. Here is a link to it:
McMaster-Carr

It is the Nylon T-strainer with clear bowl. I use the 1.5 inch opening port unit. I ordered it with the 40x20 mesh screen which is a larger opening mesh screen. I believe the percentage of open area is between 40 and 50%. The screen is just a clinging surface for oil in the vapor stream. The lower the number screen selection, the larger the mesh opening. A couple other forum members wanted me to do a complete parts list with fittings, reducer connections and barbs. The entire set up. I said I will get that done. I will be doing that some time in the next week.

 

Nice setup and writeup, real clean, good job

 

Here is the parts list for those interested in building the same:


Materials list

Item: Canister/Nylon T-Strainer
Company: McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
Part #: 9875K221
Price: $29.27

Company: Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Item: Nylon 1.5 inch male to 1 inch female reducer (quantity 2)
Part #: NC-24-16 (Price $1.87 each)

Company: Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Item: Nylon 1”x 1” straight male threaded (quantity 1)
Part #: N16MCB-16 (Price $1.12)

Company: Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Item: Nylon 1”x 1” male barb 90 degree one end threaded elbow (quantity 1)
Part #: N16MEB-16 (Price $1.26)

Company: Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Industrial Specialties Mfg.
Item: Nylon “1 x 1” male barb 90 degree elbow (quantity 1)
Part #: N16EUB-16 (Price $1.44)

Home Depot items
1” inside diameter straight brass barb, only need 1. (connects return hose to L shaped intake short rubber hose)

1” copper 90 degree copper fittings, only need 2. (one to connect reversed dog house to hose and one for return path route to connect to intake.)

Hose specs -
Approx 13 feet of 1” inside diameter rubber hose if mounting unit in the frame rail location I used. I used Gates Premo flex petroleum rated hose but Parker petroleum rated hose is good stuff as well. Don't use common heater hose.