Hey everyone- after being home for almost 2 weeks, I finally am getting to installing my new 17* HPOP. I was wondering 2 things- (1) should I just get a new IPR from the dealer as mine has over 215,000 miles on it, or (2) should I just swap out the old one? If I swap it, how the hell do I get it out? I tried putting the HPOP in a vice and using adjustable wrench on the flats where the IPR meets the HPOP case, but either it's stuck or I need more strenght to turn it, kinda scared to break it. HELP!! I need it back together today!

 

Update- the stealership said they sell them for $340, but he can give it to me for a mere $250- WTF!?!?! I thought they were like $150? Now I think I need to just swap the damn things out!

 

Deiselsite has some I think and I dont think there Dealer pricing.

 

Lose the adjustable wrench.(they're only good for rounding off perfectly good nuts)

IIRC it's 1 1/16" or 1 1/8"

They can be a little "snug".

 

Hey I just got it our with (LOL) a big *** pipe wrench, and surprisingly I didn't take off the corners (like my adjustable did hehe). So now that it's out, should I just stick it back in, or maybe do some sorta "rebuild"??

 

Danny...First off let me say ''Thanks'' for defending this country.Your service is appreciated.
If it is not putting up bad readings or taking longer to start I would put it back in.I have not replaced mine and I have 225k.I have seen them on Ebay but you want one now.

 

Check Ed's site. If you can reuse the old one for a few days while he ships a new one to ya, it should be around 150 or so. (I think)

I was a little off.

F81Z9C968AB $311.50 $0.00 $186.90
Little less than 200 shipped.

 

Thanks guys, yeah, I think I'll stick the old one back in and see how she goes. I'm hoping the somewhat rough idle is from a worn out HPOP. If it goes good, I'll get around to sticking a new one in later on. Thanks for the boost of confidence! I still gotta drop my 55 gal tank and do the intank return mods...... hopefully I don't run outta beer!

 

Don't rebuild it. They are a pain to get right. It is easy to screw it up. Very small parts and it is easy to smash the internals if you tighten it too much.

I would run the old one for now, and buy a new one. Stick the new one in and use the old one as a spare. That is what I would do.

 

Oh and you can buy them for a 1/3 of that price on ebay... brand new!

 

Welcome back brother, the guys above got you squared away...

 

Got it all done a couple of hours ago, I'd say the hardest part was getting the damn EPR line connected back to the EPS. I still got a little romp (injectors probably hurt from water in fuel in the past), but hopefully I'll get better mileage wit a new 17* pump. Thanks again folks!

 

Update- Truck's running great, but today when I went outside to run to Lowes for project crap, I saw a oil puddle under the truck so I ran it up, and found the HPOP line at the pump for the pass bank leaking so I thought maybe the fitting was loose from the factory, took a wrench to it and it was tight. Took the damn line off, took the fitting off, the o-ring was perfect. SO I out it all together again, ran it up, and this time looked at it with a mirror and my trusty Surefire flashlight. Sure as chit, the damn line is leaking at the QD. I guess too many disconnects with "other" than the tool made for the job (my shaved 1/2" open end wrench) finally did it in?? So hopefully the stealership has one in stock so I can replace it tommorow..... will it ever end???

 

Those are spendy at the steelership. Just make sure you clean everything off and watch it leak. You gotta find it first. Good luck

 

Oh yeah it was the line, there's a sleeve under the little rubber wiprer grommet that you push down on, and that sleeve was split like a collar, and that's where it was leaking from. Don't even know how that happens. Oh well, I got it fixed with my "military" discount of $145. Just happy to have her running again!