Alas, my M5OD is fast dying since I no longer have 2nd and 4th gear synchronizers, or 3rd gear, period. I 'm wondering how difficult it is to drop and rebuild. Being a 4wd I'm wondering who has some tips and tricks on dropping it. This is a job that will be tackled by my wife and I, and we aren't that young anymore. No overhead lift, done outside with a minimum of tools and jacks. Not a job I'm looking forward to, but money is a problem that says I can't farm it out.
Any tips?

 

If you haven't done so, check the fluid level before doing anything else. Who knows, it may just be low, and fresh blood may make it last a bit longer.
I would rent or buy a transmission jack as the trans and transfer case combo is just too much to handle by arms and legs alone, much less get it lined up to stab the clutch when you put it back in.
You will need a special tool to disconnect the slave cylinder line. It displaces the spring that wedges the connector together. Ask at a parts place or the dealer.
Dunno if the M5 needs any weird special tools, but you could ask at a local trans shop. If you were to order your 'kit' from them, or get replacement parts, such as the synchros, they may be more likely to talk to you, and drop hints. They may even give you a good price on them doing the gizzard work...
tom

 

(this thread is related to my problem, not sure how to start a new one)
I have a 99 ranger, 2.5 liter, 5 speed manual,
just changed the clutch out with a new kit. that went well (thanks to some great advice on this site). Here's the problem:
there is a very slow leak out of the back of the transmission. It looks like fluid is coming out of where the drive shaft inserts. I'd guess it's 10 or 20 drops per day.
I added a little fluid today. truck was parked on a very slight grade pointing up. I filled it up to the fill hole (hope that it's not too much fluid).

 

I only have a 2wd, but the 4wd is simular from what a guy I know told me. He pulled it with the transfer case on and sid it was a PIA but it comes out much the same as the 2wd. What I have come up with are 2 long headless studs that I insert in to the engine and slide the trans out on and reverse the process to get it back in. The biggest problem i have experienced was with the pilot bearing as they are small and easily damaged and then they cause all kinds of shifting problems. Get a book and see what it takes to pull the transfer case or how they recommend to pyull the trans. Then replace everything while you are in there. Pilot bearing, slave cyl, clutch. I bought my stuff at autozone where they have a lifetime warrenty and I have changed the original out 2 times already made the exchange of the clutch assy with AZ again no questions asked. They have a Lifetime slave kit and that may be a plus as of the 3times I pulled the trans 1 was for the slave only which I had paid about $80 for to begin with, so the last time I put the warranteed slave in.

I paid around $1000 for rebuild of the transmission which had the mainshaft replaced along with 1st gear and then the OD went out about 30000 miles later thus the 2d time I pulled the trans. I changed the Slave here for GPS because they are problem prone. The last time I greased the pilot bearing up with extra grease, I also pulled the seal on the throw out bearing and packed it with a good quality grease. and then with the use of the studs was able to slide the trans in with minimal fuss. So if you have all the gears out as indicated you may need a new or arebuilt trans from the word go! Also make sure the plastic plugs on the shift rail are replaced with metal ones as the plastic allows the fluid to leak thus the internal problems.

As to the leaking tail shaft, easy fix. Pull the driveshaft and then the seal can be pulled and replaced. No you did not over fill. You could try some seal swell to see if that helps, but if its starting to leak its just as easy to replace since only the drive shaft needs to be pulled.

 

The rear seal is fixable without dropping the transmission. You do have to remove the driveshaft. Before replacing the seal, try to wiggle the output shaft where it rides in the tailhousing. If you can wiggle it around, the bushing in the tailhousing is likely worn. Otherwise, remove the shaft with the trans facing downhill, remove the seal, and install a new one. Put some grease on the splines in the driveshaft, and some gear lube or grease on the outer side of the driveshaft and install. Get to level ground and check the level. It should be within 1/4" of the fill on the side of the case.
tom

 

Mine is a job dealing with a 4wd tranny. I have a 2wd doner for parts.
1, Can it be done w/out using a hoist?
2, Do I have to remove/drop the exhaust?
3, Can it be taken apart and put together in piecies or does it need to be dropped as
a complete unit?
4, any unexpeceted supprises I should watch out for?
5, Special tools [I'm doing a rebuild]
6, any other things I'm ignorant of? [I'm sure there's plenty]

My job is being done outside on sandy soil by an old man [me]... sigh, so much for my 'vacation time'. And this is going to do a serious dent on my fishin' time.

 

Bazzman, chug on down to the transmission section below and post your questions. I can only give you generalized info from doing similar work on my own vehicles.
I repeat, I would not drop the transmission and transfer case without a jack. Sandy soil will not make that easy, even with a jack. I would expect you would have to raise it up, or at least have the front wheels on ramps to get enough clearance to slide the bell housing out from underneath. I know the bell from a Wind* barely fits out, or in, even raised up on ramps. I think I had to raise the tail housing to get it out from underneath. That was a 4.0 A4ld, but the bell housing is the same as a manual.
tom

 

I removed and tried a replacement seal, but couldn't get it to go in. it seemed like a fraction of a millimeter to big. I put the old part back in, greased the drive shaft and reinstalled. drove it for 15 minutes and no sign of a leak. I plan to keep an eye on over the next couple of days. tom and hank, thanks for answering my question.
Bazzman, the exhaust might be in your way (it was sort of in the way of mine, 2.5L 2wd ranger, but I did not have to remove it - used a ratchet type strap to pull it tight up against the chassis.)

 

I deceided that this is going to be too big a job for me to tackle outside on the ground so I'm farming it out. One last question, though. What years can I get a used one from?

 

Bazzman:
One last question, though. What years can I get a used one from?

Get to the transmission section... Might get a quicker response.

Gitterjack:

The rear seal needs to be whacked into place. It does not slide in easily, you have to use a persuader, aka hammer. Be gentle, though.
tom

 

I came up with [for me] a short term solution. I picked up a '91 F-150 4x4. I say short term because my wife want's it. Myself, I personally don't care for a big truck anymore and I sure as h*ll don't want to drive her Chevy station wagon. She doesn't either, and has been upset with me ever since I sold her '75 F-250 Ranger

 

A lot easier to buy a different truck than drop a trans & case. Plus, the boss is a lot happier. A double win!
Now, you can take your time, and buy some necessary tools, jacks, air compressor, impact wrench, etc to do the job on the tranny. Harbor Freight has a trans jack for $79.95, and you can find a 20% off coupon in the back of Motor Trend or Car & Driver.
Most transmissions don't need a whole lot of special tools to fix them. I have gotten gizzards out of transmissions that I bought by the pound as scrap iron, and used them to repair others. It worked, what can I say... Maybe you could find the same thing.
tom