I cleaned my spider using a wire wheel on a drill. Started off with a coarse wire whel and finished up wth a finer one.

Turned out real nice.

 

Great Job on the Van Turbo.
I have a 2000 E350SD 7.3L and I can get about 35 # boost using the 60 or 80 tune.

One thing I have been learning is the CPS/CPM will affect the entire Rig timing and performance. I have the Shim's (4) and I'm tuning the new Blue International 1876736C91 with the shims. I'm running it with no shims now, then I will add one, then I will add 2 and so on up to 4 shims.

I will log all idle readings using the AIC/ACPM and other findings for each shim added.
If you have never seen the shims they are like large washers that fit over the CPS before you plug it in the engine. They are super thin made of brass (Non-Magnetic) and all four (4) shims together make about a 1/16" thickness. So they may be like 1/64th of an inch each thick. The International truck tech told me that they fine tune the Swat Trucks and Rescue trucks using the shims to get the best performance. It's not something people really talk about very much and it's an important part to install correct as it can mean 2-3 MPG more and that adds up to more power and speed. The Top International Truck Tech's check the air gap on the cam sensors. .025 - .030 is the spec. Most people just slap them in and never look back. They also use clean Vaseline to lube the O-Ring and not wheel bearing grease. I just wanted to pass onto you Gents what I have learned recently.

The new Blue CPS 1876736C91 from International is the same one that Ford packages now using this Ford Part Number F4TZ-12K073-C and when you look at the housing on the new Blue Ford packaged CPS it has the International part number stamped into the plastic housing next to the 3 prong electrical connection.

Stay away from the Ford Gray CPS Units because many are for the pre-1999.5 powerstrokes and will make your Rig run hot and screw up the timing. Many of them will make you mis-fire Cylinder #3 & #8 and you lose serious fuel economy.

Best to you all,
Russ

 

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I want to clean up the wiring on the spider like this and get rid of what I don't need anymore, how do I do it?

 

chris u still waiting till the N.E.S.T GTG for the install? If so Petey and I both have van turbos with out that wiring or plumbing.
i suggest getting a aih delete from clay
Riffraff Diesel: AIH Delete Plug
only other thing you will need is a pack of 470 ohm resistors from radio shack

 

The van turbo has no wastegate, so the entire wastegate controller goes away. The only other thing I removed was the AIH. What you can't see in that pic is that I cut the AIH off and used the threaded part as a plug. I now have a Riff-Raff plug with boost gauge fitting.

Here are pics of both the RDP plug and the AIH with element cut off:


Here's what the spider looks like today:

 

This is interesting stuff. I have heard about shimming the CPS.

Does #8 pass the CCT with a blue CPS installed?

Can shimming the CPS affect CCT results?

Edit : When using the depth gauge do you measure to X, the recess, or Y, the face of the cam gear.

 

So let me get this straight... you guys are taking the turbo out of an old E350 van and throwing them in your truck for more power?

 

e99 super duties use a e99 e series van turbo
99.5 -03 use 99.5 -03 e series van turbo
the vans are not intercooled so the housings are bigger to keep the egt's down

 

yes, The compressor side is the same as that stock L99 turbo. The difference is on the exhaust side. It has a 1.15A/R exhaust housing and a different exhaust wheel.

I would not say the van turbo is for performance. I would go 38r for a turbo before the van turbo. The only thing is the 38r is about 3-4 times more expensive. I use my van turbo for work. You will see a 200-250 degree drop in EGT's. I love mine. But if I wanted a real street demon I would go H2e or GT42 instead of a van turbo.

I hope this helps.

 

It's not that the van turbo in & of itself *makes* more power -- you flat out need more fuel for that. Period. What the van turbo does is LET you run larger injectors -- the larger exhaust housing favors the upper end of the RPM range, while creating some lag down low (a characteristic of all larger housings). If I were to cram the amount of fuel I am now into a stock turbo, it would be hugely restrictive. The back pressure and EGTs would shoot through the roof. The upside of the 38r is the larger compressor wheel & ball-bearing journal bearings. But the exhaust side is similar (or the same) as stock. I'm making ~450/1000 off my van turbo, so it will make lots of power. Max boost on the van turbo is around 35ish psi, max boost on the 38r is 40.

 

The Answer is "Y", the face of the cam gear.

Some people have dirt, grease and build-up around the CPS on the block. It needs to be cleaned very well before the install to insure there is nothing holding it out even a slight bit. Like a speck of sand or Sand(s) in grease could hold it out 1/64th or more.

Some engines have the metal casting with a ridge, then they need to "Under Shim" the CPS, by grinding the front of the block with either a rough to medium Hand Drill wire wheel (Or some people have used a Fine to Medium Dremel Tool Wheel) You need a steady hand. They need to do this to help achieve the minimum .025 gap. Then some gaps may be .035 or .040 and in this case the (4) brass shims will come in handy to help you get the gap between the .025 to .030 range for optimum efficiency.

Not only will I set my CPS to the .025 to .030 gap, but I will also try the CPS with No shims, check findings, then one shim, check findings, then 2 shims and so on. Then If I find that 2 shims is the rocket ship setting I will pass it on. If I find that it's 3 shims I will pass it on.

It may not be the measurement of the CPS to dial it in. It may be as easy as installing between one to four shims and that's it.

Thanks for all the help gents in this Forum as well as many others I go to.

 

Well I got impatient and decided to pull the turbo today because the new one is coming tomorrow. Also decided to try and track down my exhaust leak so started unbolting the up-pipes. Gonna order the Bellowed Up-pipes from Clay tomorrow. I hope I can have everything done by the end of the week. I'm also gonna do a couple other things while I'm waiting on the up-pipes like my FRX and clean EBP sensor and tube. Then all I need is my chip burned and I'll be done for a while.

As far as the AIH delete, I have one already. I just want to get rid of the wires to the right of it. Do I just pull the red and green hoses off and plug up all the holes? What about the plug next to them? What is it and can I just disconnect it?

 

Another thing I wanted to mention about the CPS/CPM install besides the shim's is the Magnetic Part of the Part.

The old, original CPS made back in 2000 or so had very strong magnetic pull on the tip that plugs into the Block.

The newer CPS/CPM just don't have as much magnetic pull.

So I have this German made Green Device by WIHA that makes tools/items magnetized and demagnetized. So I am leaving one of the new Blue CPS tips I got from International in the Magnet Device to strengthen it up for 2 days.



I don't know what all it will do but I'm going to give it a shot.

Inside these things it's like a huge coil of copper wire, like a transformer. Well after all this is a transducer.

The magnet has something to do with sending the signal to the CPU.

It may be a long shot, but I'm giving it a shot.

When the CPS is installed using the 18 lb./FT Torque on the 10MM Bolt, the Tip of the CPS should be about 1 1/8" in to the tip.

And I wanted to also remind you Gents installing the Turbos to use Safety Wire so the turbo Bolts will not back out on you. You can use a little high heat never sieze on the bolts if you use the safety wire.

McMaster-Carr sells the grade 8 Bolts with the Safety wire holes pre-drilled for you.

Or ITP Sells the Turbo Bolt kit. We are using safety wire for everything now.




best to you all,
Russ