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Well i have had my holley carb laying around in the box for a while and it cooled down this last after noon so i started to put it in. Getting it in its place was increadibly easy.
BUT it says no where in the install book on the proper way to try and hook up the throttle. I was out there for hours trying to get it work. i got nothing, i would still be out there trying to get the F*****G thing right but i ran out of daylight. I am going to lose my damn mind, it cant be this hard. It is a holley street 2bbl, part number 0-4412C. If anyone else has done this i would love to hear/see (pictures, lots probably) how you did it.
I am sure i am making it much harder than it needs to be. If anyone has done this install could you also tell me how you hooked up your fuel being how it looks like it needs a 90 degree bend to fit. And the vacume for the disributor cause it dosnt look like its going to fit either.
Well any help would be awesome. thanks everyone
Oh yah sorry it might be help full to know what its on huh? Its on a 66 f250 with a 352 and a stick so no tranny kick down.
Just a thought but you can make your own fuel line and bend it how you need it, cut it to length and use a tool to flare the end of the line how it needs to be, the vacuum to the dist needs to be manifold vacuum either from the bottom of the carb or the intake manifold port. as far as the linkage goes. post a pic so we can see what your up against. sometimes aftermarket installs dont go as planned!
alright i will get a pic up as soon as posible. Yes the install is deffinalty not going as planned. Thanks for the tip on the fuel line, what kind of tools do i need to make a new one? Thanks.
you need a flaring tool with the inserts to make double flares similar to brake line flares. Sears or your local oreilly have them. If you havent done this before dont expect your first one to be perfect but a little practice and you'll have it down!
you need a flaring tool with the inserts to make double flares similar to brake line flares. Sears or your local oreilly have them. If you havent done this before dont expect your first one to be perfect but a little practice and you'll have it down!
Alright thanks, and sorry i havnt gotten any pics up just yet.
But this is on a total side note, I used to go through boliver all the time. I lived in Stockton from age 4-12ish. I was even thinking of attending SMSU in springfeild once i am done with my general studies.
If it's the line from the fuel pump to carb suggest pricing out the cost for going with AN-8 flex line, to what it would cost for flaring, and bending tools, not to mention cost of 2-3 ft. of tubing. Posting pic as example, if should consider, may find cheaper at local auto store. Installed on the 65 and remove the Holly more often than want to admit and AN fittings make for quick and easy install and remove.
daves right about the flex line i hadn,t thought of that. it would be much easier I thnk. If I am seeing the pics correctly the vacuum port is on the rh side of the carb base. that should be ok to hook your vacuum advance to as these old trucks use manifold vacuum. As far as the throttl linkage try loosening the clamp and sliding the cable sheath back al the way to remove any slack in the cable. then if that works see it it goes to full throttle. if not you may have to manufacture another mount or cable. not sure there. check it out and let us know. I went to smsu small world huh!
Yes the vac port is on the right hand side, but there are no threads on it. Nothing matches up, I need to try and find something that works as a adapter of some sort.
But the actual throttle cable is not the problem. It is getting the throttle cable to actually move the flap things. The piece that the cable is attached to works totally independent of the piece that actually controls the flaps on the bottom of the carb. I will try and have a video of what i mean up with in a few hours.
The main thing i'm confused about is, when looking at the engine from the top on the left side. Theres the cable that connects and secures through two grommets. And under it is the piece that actually manuvers the flap to open the carburator.. Is that piece suppose to operate independently? I just can't see how it should go so that the carb gets opened up when there is nothing pulling that lever? Sorry, I am a complete newbie on carburators.
Your linkage is connected to the trans kickdown lever of the carb. You need a ball-type linkage stud to stick in one of the holes of the linkage arm to the left of where it's currently attached. I would ditch the current steel fuel line and get the necessary length of mild steel fuel line from your local parts house and bend it yourself to fit.