someone please help!!
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 79
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someone please help!!
My 65 352 3 speed f100 is running like crap. I replaced the cap, put a pertonix points eliminator in it, new wires, new plugs (gapped .45 for the pertronix), new fuel filter, timing adjusted with a light, 2 barrel carb completely overhauled by a professional. I checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the outlet line and it sprayed a good amount of fuel out.
After i put tires on it today the truck decided to leave me stranded on the way home. I thought it was out of gas (which it wasnt) I put some in it and it limped home. Barely. Now the truck barely idles, sputters and hesitates on acceleration bad. What else is left? What am I missing????
After i put tires on it today the truck decided to leave me stranded on the way home. I thought it was out of gas (which it wasnt) I put some in it and it limped home. Barely. Now the truck barely idles, sputters and hesitates on acceleration bad. What else is left? What am I missing????
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 804
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From: Maricopa
sounds like a vacuum leak. check all the hoses. A good way to check is to cap one end and blow on the other while the hose is submerged in water, look for bubbles. if you do see them either replace the hose or if it's close to the end and the hose is long enough you can just cut it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
You don't mention when it ever ran well.
Consider what is required:
You have to have an unrestricted air supply to the carb.
You need a good fuel supply. With the ignition off, looking down into the carb can you see a healthy stream of fuel from the accelerator pump when you operate the throttle?
You need to have good compression in all cylinders.
The engine has to have good mechanical timing between the crankshaft and the camshaft. The cam has to positively open the valves at the right times.
You need good ignition timing. Check the firing order as well as the timing with the light.
Does the engine reach operating temperature?
Consider what is required:
You have to have an unrestricted air supply to the carb.
You need a good fuel supply. With the ignition off, looking down into the carb can you see a healthy stream of fuel from the accelerator pump when you operate the throttle?
You need to have good compression in all cylinders.
The engine has to have good mechanical timing between the crankshaft and the camshaft. The cam has to positively open the valves at the right times.
You need good ignition timing. Check the firing order as well as the timing with the light.
Does the engine reach operating temperature?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
My 65 352 3 speed f100 is running like crap.
I replaced the cap, put a pertonix points eliminator in it, new wires, new plugs (gapped .45 for the pertronix), new fuel filter, timing adjusted with a light, 2 barrel carb completely overhauled
by a professional. I checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the outlet line and it sprayed a good amount of fuel out.
After i put tires on it today the truck decided to leave me stranded on the way home. I thought it was out of gas (which it wasnt) I put some in it and it limped home. Barely.
Now the truck barely idles, sputters and hesitates on acceleration bad.
I replaced the cap, put a pertonix points eliminator in it, new wires, new plugs (gapped .45 for the pertronix), new fuel filter, timing adjusted with a light, 2 barrel carb completely overhauled
by a professional. I checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the outlet line and it sprayed a good amount of fuel out.After i put tires on it today the truck decided to leave me stranded on the way home. I thought it was out of gas (which it wasnt) I put some in it and it limped home. Barely.
Now the truck barely idles, sputters and hesitates on acceleration bad.
You say the carb was overhauled, but the problem is...how old were the parts the 'professional' installed? Ozone, humidity greatly affects rubber parts.
If the accelerator pump diaphragm and check valve have hardened up, this is the usual reason for stuttering, stumbling, hesistating, bogging down from a dead stop or when accelerating at speed.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Agreed, another trick to tell if you have a lean condition as well is with the air cleaner off partially cover the top of the carb with your hand. If it smoothes out you have a lean condition either fuel or vacuum leak
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 79
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The one thing I haven't replaced yet is the coil but this certainly seems like a fuel problem to me. Can a faulty coil cause this? It does,after all, look to be about 45 years old.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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Ok,
I tested the coil. It's fine. Fuel pressure coming out of the pump is reading 5 psi on my gauge. Pumps fine. As I was looking at it scratching my head trying to diagnose what now seemed more like a timing issue than a fuel issue, I remembered the pertronix points eliminator. After installation I couldn't get my truck started and had to call their tech support. The tech told me that on alot of ford trucks the magnetic ring that goes inside the distributor sometimes wont sit flush with the top of the "points" part of the points eliminator. He said to use an o ring to keep them flush. I got them flush but forgot the O ring. Apparently what has happened is after one good drive the magnetic ring lowered back down under the where it should have been giving the engine hell and apparently poor ignition. I re adjusted it and the truck starts, idles and accelerates fine. I appreciate everyones response and now I hope this thread will help someone in the future who will make the same dumb mistake I made.
I tested the coil. It's fine. Fuel pressure coming out of the pump is reading 5 psi on my gauge. Pumps fine. As I was looking at it scratching my head trying to diagnose what now seemed more like a timing issue than a fuel issue, I remembered the pertronix points eliminator. After installation I couldn't get my truck started and had to call their tech support. The tech told me that on alot of ford trucks the magnetic ring that goes inside the distributor sometimes wont sit flush with the top of the "points" part of the points eliminator. He said to use an o ring to keep them flush. I got them flush but forgot the O ring. Apparently what has happened is after one good drive the magnetic ring lowered back down under the where it should have been giving the engine hell and apparently poor ignition. I re adjusted it and the truck starts, idles and accelerates fine. I appreciate everyones response and now I hope this thread will help someone in the future who will make the same dumb mistake I made.
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