Hi all.. well i got a different engine in it and its running. Its holding great oil pressure and runs at a decent temp. (190-200)
The engine is a 302 fuel injected coverted to a carb'd engine. I changed the front gear from the carb' to the Fuelie block and also the cam.

Now it starts on the first pop of the starter... runs through all the gears great.. idles flawlessly.

Problem... there seems to be a miss but not showing signs of a "Miss" if that makes any sense.. you can feel it in the engine when its idling up through the rpm range. faster it turns the faster it goes.
There is a bunch of positive pressure comming from the valve covers.
The engine was sitting a while. I tore it apart checked all the bearings, cylinder walls and replaced all the gaskets and new timing chain.

Any suggestions

 

This is kind of a long shot (well, maybe not) but since this is a later model engine, I'd be curious if there is some sort of balance issue by using your old flexplate/flywheel with the newer engine (if you did that). If it's a concern, it'd be something to ask the guys in the Windsor forum because I do believe there were some balance changes at some point in the 302's lifespan.

 

thanks.. i will check.

 

yep theres a difference. if its a truck motor then anything before 92 had 28oz balance and after that moved to 50oz. if its a car motor they switched around 85 to roller blocks which have a 50 oz imbalance. i might be a few years off on the car motors, but basically if you switched the motor out and kept the flexplate it had you should be good to go. thats the way i went when i put a 90's 5.0 in my 74. just had to buy a new torque convertor to match up to the flexplate. hope that helps.

 

Late model engines also have a different firing order (351W style) than early small blocks (289/302).

Josh

 

ok... i just ran the block cast numbers its from 1980.. someone built it in 1997 and put it in a 95 f150 with a 5spd. . I have done the following: Removed and swapped from the fuelie -- the intake, timing chain, cover, oil pick up, oil pan, distributor, cam, fly wheel and clutch...

replaced it with all the similar parts from my 79 302 with a c4 so it all lines up to the previous 'old' equipment. Plus the fuel pump new distributor and new timing chain. Removed the pilot bushing and added my flywheel ect from the "old" engine. I added the emission plugs to the heads to seal that up properly. Vacuum lines appear to be correct. I could be wrong do not have a diagram. I ran the PVC to the intake/carb plate port. The breather is dumping into the air cleaner. The Vac. tree at the back of the intake is capped on the ones not used on Passanger side. The other side is hooked up the previously positioned lines. The other vacuum tree with 2 lines is hooked up to the previous used fitting... There was a threaded hole on the top of the very back of the bock that was open to the flywheel area. I put a plug in that as well.

Here are my specs at this time:: New Engine is bored .040 over. Cam is stock for a carb engine. Carb is a 2150 stock 2bbl. Timing is set at 8 btc. Oil pressure is at 50 turning 2100 rpm. Speed is 55mph at 2100. After about 15 min of driving at 55 mph its temp is 230 degrees. Thermostat is 160.
New spark plugs gapped at 44. Wires are all good. New cap & rotor. Distributor is new. Fuel psi is a constant 7 psi at idle of 750 rpm. I ran the pullies from the carb motor as well. Ac pump is not installed yet.
The pressure problem is solved. its was my mistake I pulled a bone head move and ran the pvc to the oil breather and then t'd it to the vacuum port at the bottom of the carb plate/ intake.. DUH .. I know. I fixed all that..
I do have alot of junk comming up from the tank.. I have two fuel filters installed.. one closes to the carb is clear and able to see rust etc accmulating on the filter itself. I added a concaved magnet from a electric motor from a RC Car (use to race) and zip tied it to the visable area. It is helping pull the particles from the line. was this a good idea or ???

Is this operating temp right? I still have a rough feeling going on until about 1300 rpm.. its a quick vibration that picks up with the rpms it possibly could be present at higher rpms but not noticable.

Thanks
Chris
( Someone might say "why isnt this guy asking other people in his area" well all my buddies are chevy people. Well everyone that use to be ford'ly inclined is dead to put it bluntly. This would be my grandfather he was a mechanic for ford since 1930's first car he sold was a 1936 ford he actually worked at the first ford dealership west of the mississippi river located here in Bloomsdale Missouri owned by EB Stanton called Stanton ford. Ok im rambling now)

Thanks again guys.. I will post all kinds of pics soon I am in the process of putting together a public page.

 

Are you sure the gauge is right?

You could have air pockets in the head/block. With the water rushing thru the engine so fast with the 160 stat you could be getting steam temperature and not water temperature.

Josh

 

I thought that too with the gauge. So I bought a new triple set and just installed the temp. Same reading.

How do I remove the air pockets? I had a friend come by tonight and said that on his 48 chevy.. go figure... he actually took a small drill and put a hole in the outer ring of the thermostat. This would allow air to move through the thermostat and not effect the action of it. Of course he tells me this after I put the engine back together. LOL

Thanks again.

 

I do that too, I drill a couple 3/16th inch holes in the t-stat.

It's just a thought. I would toss the 160 stat as well. your engine will be alot happier with a 195, or at least install a 180.

What pound cap are you running as well? 16 PSI hopefully.

Josh

 

Ok.. I will put in a 195 ... Cap is new also.. I will check the psi tomorrow. Its has the red release lever on it .. What is normal operating temp on this ya think?.... In other words.. when should I worry.. LOL

 

ok cap is a 13-14lb cap.. 195 is in with two little holes in it.
Just checked boiling temp of antifreeze and it was mixed a bit weak. I drained and remixed to 50/50

Before remix temp was 230-240 running 55 mph for 15 min.

Chime in when you have a chance.

 

Running temp with a 195 t-stat should be 195-200 degrees.

If I was hauling, towing or stuck in bumper-2-bumper traffic I wouldn't worry too much about 210-220, 230 degrees is really borderline for a normal system.

And 230 just cruising is plain brutal, something is wrong. Now I do not have a stock system by any means, but at 55 mph and 85 degrees out I can literally turn my electric fan off and still run 195, there is that much air being forced thru the radiator at that speed.

Another DIFFERENCE between the older 302 and the newer 5.0 302 is the WATER PUMP, the old ones, as your using, use a v-belt which turns the water pump opposite of a serpentine set-up which is what the 1995 F150 would have had.

Josh

 

everything else on the fuel inj motor was a 80 block and heads.
Im going to switch out to the proper mix and run it for about 30 miles at 65=70 that should make something halppen

 

So you're positive you have the correct pump?

So the engine is an 80, that was later installed in a 95 and is now in your 79?

The ratio of the coolant isn't going to have as much of an effect as you think unless you have 100% antifreeze in there. Then definately a 50/50 mix will cool better.

Josh

 

Correct the engine was installed built in 97 as per the build tag on the side of the block. I called the engine builders and checked it out

It was orignially a 80 block.
I have my originial water pump on the block. There is no play in the pump or any signs of leaks. So Im taking that it is good.
My Mix is more toward the water side I believe as per the gauge. Its showing a lower boiling temp about 135 or so.. when its a 5050 mix its up at 260 or so for a boiling temp.

Maybe I just need to drive it more than 30 miles. Heck Im up in the air here.

thanks back to work

C