No mine didnt go easily. Other guys told me if I didnt get it right, it would never get 400 miles. I do got a drain. I'm debating weather to tackle it here at work.

 

I'm sure you are aware that just as soon as you remove the plug and get the oil drained then get the pan bolts nearly removed, then the Monsoons will start, either that or an unusually large mosquito swarm. . Maybe someone will come up with something thats easier to do first!! From what you describe, it does sound like the parking pawl is not adjusted right. Bad news is you dont know just how high a speed it will "grab"

As I sit out by the pool in the cool of the evening, with a "beverage of choice" in hand, I will be thinking--------Glad its not me!! LOL

 

Seems to me that there is something that rotates when there is no load coming from the engine. It's being rotated by the driveline because there's no load to keep it from rotating. This thinking leads me to think transfer case chain.

 

The chain is not rotating. I know this because one of my tests was to tye rap the front driveshaft. (the tie rap didnt break) Its been so long since I rebuilt my AOD in my last Bronco, I cant remember what the park key even looks like. I'm assuming the E40D is simalar. What actuates it on a E40D?

 

MY 89 makes a grining noise when leting of the gas as well, there is also a bearing "whiring noise" or "chirp" what ever you want to call it, relevent to driveline pressure. From the research I have done, I think mine is a pinion bearing, and the driveline pressure is putting positive on the pinion gear and causing the noise, and when the pressure is removed the teeth and grind on each other, but that is just my $.02.

 

I have another E4OD case out back that I have removed the guts, cleaned up and painted to rebuild. I have all the new parts, including a roller brg center support and a 5-6 pinion fwd clutch assy----you know how the roundtuits work I dont think I removed the parking gear lever or rod that goes back to the "Pawl" assy at the rear outside of the main case. If I can figure out how to post a picture, I will take a pic tomorrow with my dig camera and post. If I am too dumb to post it, I can email it to you for a look-see.

 

Thanks Ben,
Dave, I know what your talking about, but I diont think that could be thwe case on mine because it makes the noise (and doesnt) when in newtral.

Here is something I have come up with. It may be stupid. Assuming the parking pawl is opperated (reliesed) by hydroulic pressure. Also assuming my pump is not so strong, when I let off the gas and the engine goes to idle and the pressure goes down. The pawl kind of half way engages. when I step back on the gas, the pressure goes back up and pulls the pawl away. Does this make any since?

The only thing is, the tranny is running good otherwise. And this wasnt a problem before I changed the T/C. I know its possible to damage the pump by not installing the T/C correct. Is it possible to hurt it so it pumps less? (meaning is it all or nothing?)

In any case, I'm getting depressed about pulling the tranny again on my next break.

 

Mark---I am very sure that the parking pawl and linkage rod is not hydraulically operated, it is a straight mechanical linkage. It is very similar to the one in most of Ford auto's such as the AOD.

I am up to my hindquarters in alligators this morning, but will fight my way back to my "shed" for a looksee at my disassembled E4OD and give you a verbal shortly. Also get a pic of it and , now that I think of it, the ATSG manual may have a good pic. Maybe we can come up with some other cause rather than doing a tear down again.

Back in a while--

 

I just verified that the linkage is all mechanical. I can only see one condition that would allow the actual pawl to engage the notched wheel on the tailshaft, inside the tailshaft portion of the tranny. There is a spring that returns the pawl back to the withdrawn and clear state after the selector is moved out of "P". All other positions of the selector having a '"sliding" motion at the pawl until "P" is reached, then it will engage the pawl. When you come out of Park, the spring withdraws the pawl from engagement.

I dont see how a simple jarring around while replacing the TC could break that spring, certainly less jarring than it gets from jumping mudholes or potholes! The linkage attaches directly to the shaft/arm that the selector arm connects to on the outside at the MLPS. For the selector to be so far off, your MLPS would not put you in any gear except "P". Good news is, in my opinion, it "aint" the parking Pawl. Bad news is that no telling what your problem is.

I have some good pics, but dont know how to post them. I can PM them to you and you can post, but they are quite large jpg's and I have not had a chance to rescale them. The Mods may not like the large files, so if you have access to broadband up there, (just got phones up there last week ) I will email to you. PM me if you want email or if I can send Via PM----

 

Thanks Ben,

You can hold off right now on the pics. I got some other feelers out there. I'm waiting for response.

 

Just giving you guys an update. It turned out to be the transfer case. It started to go in to newtral (transfercase) by itself. It always worked in four low. But only sometimes in 2 or 4 hi. I havent torn it down yet. I got another in a junkyard. It had a universal yoke instead of the flange for the carden. I swaped them and it works great.

I will rebuild mine when I get a chance. I'll let you guys know what it was. Thanks for the help.

 

Transfer Case Shifter needed to be adjusted?

 

Get under the truck and try to turn each side the shaft, if it feels loose, then it might be a worn and ready to be replace u-joint.

 

I'm not sure I understand the last two responses. I have the junkyard T-Case in it now and all is well. The shifter has no adjustment. There is no newtral between 2H and 4H. Only between 4H and 4L. I'll know after I open it. but Its going to half to wait.