Noise
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 1
Noise
Got a new problem on my last drive to work. When I let off the gas, it makes a gear grinding noise. If I step back on the gas, it goes quiet. If I hold some gas on while slowing down with brake, its quiet. I believe it's in the transfer case, but not sure. It makes the sound weather in 2H or 4H.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
So, positive torque pressure equals "no noise" but negative equals "noise". Does it do it with the transmission in neutral...rather can you coast in neutral and stop without causing the noise? I only ask because I dealt with this issue a few years back only to discover the double-cardon u-joint at the front of the rear DS was going. Wasn't easy to diagnose either because it really felt like T-case issues. I could be completely wrong but its a less expensive fix than t-case rebuilding.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 1
I'm sure its not the carden. (I've had many failures of them) I just replaced the Torque converter. Is this a posible cause? It sounds just like trying to shift to 4H from 2H while moving. I will try the neutral tonite.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Hmm, I wouldn't think the TC would be causing any adverse conditions as far back the the transfer case especially if you aren't experiencing any shift problems from the transmission itself. Electronic or manual t-case? With a manual, I could see perhaps linkage adjustment.
Here's a thought, does the problem persist with 4HI engaged?
Here's a thought, does the problem persist with 4HI engaged?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 214
Likes: 1
From: Grain Valley, MO
I'd go for either a U joint or the CV itself. Put it on jackstands at full droop and rotate the wheels, front and back, and look for binding or play in the drivetrain. You hear it when you're not under power only because the motor masks the noise when you're on the throttle. You don't have a transfer case problem. Did you have the problem before you replaced the torque converter?
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 1
I did not have the problem before. It was fine for three hundred miles after I put the T/C in. It started during the last hundred miles of a four hundred mile trip. The motor is not masking it. If I let off at seventy MPH, it is loud and fast. If I then slowly add throttle the sound catches up and disappears as if two gears mesh. Kind of like shifting a standard without the clutch.
I really dont think its a u-joint. I have busted or warn out many, many u-joints over the years. None sound like this.
I really dont think its a u-joint. I have busted or warn out many, many u-joints over the years. None sound like this.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 1
I did some more testing today. I drove at 40 mph. Shift in to newtral with my foot on the gas. (coasting with engine at 2000 rpm) No noise! I let off the gas and the noise comes. (still coasting) It would seem to be in the T/C or trans.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow
I would say that if the problem still comes and goes with the motor. both in D and N then the problem is before the trans. maybe the T/C or in the engine. what happens if you bring the engine up around 2500RPMs and then let it drop off while in park?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 214
Likes: 1
From: Grain Valley, MO
In order to replace a torque converter you need to remove the tranny, transfer case and drive shafts. When you put it back together is it possible you didn't tighten a driveshaft flange or seat a U joint cap correctly? Maybe a loose U joint U bolt? If such a thing did happen it would allow movement between the joint bearing cap and the mounting flange. Definite noise and vibration. Take the time to crawl back under and recheck all your bolts. I think you have something loose. Would a driveshaft out of phase cause this situation?
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 1
Out of phase would only apply if I took the slip joints apart. (I didnt) The noise goes up and down with the engine when in newtral. (coasting) I think that would rule out loose u-joints. I will try reving the engine in park. I dont know why I didnt think of that.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 1
I finnally figured out what it sounds like. It sounds like shifting in to park while moving. If you have never done this, the park key will not engage until the vehical slows down. I believe the park key is rubbing. Why it only rubs when I let off the throttle, I dont know.
I found this out when I was out testing some things. I stopped, got out very quickly and looked underneeth. The truck drifted back about a foot and clicked twice. (I had it in park) I then grabed the tire and was able to roll the truck another foot and it clicked some more. I drove back to my work and put it in park. It wont move now. But probubly the key will ware out quickly. Any ideas? Is the key accessable from the pan?
I found this out when I was out testing some things. I stopped, got out very quickly and looked underneeth. The truck drifted back about a foot and clicked twice. (I had it in park) I then grabed the tire and was able to roll the truck another foot and it clicked some more. I drove back to my work and put it in park. It wont move now. But probubly the key will ware out quickly. Any ideas? Is the key accessable from the pan?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 3
From: Longwood, Fl
Gotta ask 
Although you sound like you are pretty through. The TQ conv did not completely seat into the pump easily when I did mine. Mine acted a little funny when I did it, almost like a "double" seating. If the bell seated good and flat, thats as good as you can do. Also, since your converter didnt have a plug, hope you got every thing full of fluid.
Sounds strange that it would do this if you didnt disturb anything else. Yes the parking pawl lever can be seen with the pan off. Should be easy to tell, if the adjustment is off at the lever. Maybe the adjustment at the MLPS got off somehow.
Hope you got a drain plug in the tranny pan!
LOL
Although you sound like you are pretty through. The TQ conv did not completely seat into the pump easily when I did mine. Mine acted a little funny when I did it, almost like a "double" seating. If the bell seated good and flat, thats as good as you can do. Also, since your converter didnt have a plug, hope you got every thing full of fluid.Sounds strange that it would do this if you didnt disturb anything else. Yes the parking pawl lever can be seen with the pan off. Should be easy to tell, if the adjustment is off at the lever. Maybe the adjustment at the MLPS got off somehow.
Hope you got a drain plug in the tranny pan!
LOL