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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Brake lines for 4x4

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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 07:49 PM
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Brake lines for 4x4

Im going to replace all the brake lines in my 63 F100 4x4 as well as a dual chamber MC.

All of the kits I see online for tubing are for the 2x4. Have any of you run into this?

Perhaps I could just order a 2x4 kit, then get the extra tubing I need from NAPA and finish it off.

Also, I would like to go with disc brakes all around eventually. Does this matter as far as how I route the tubing?

Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 09:20 PM
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I have a 63' 4x4 as well. I re did all the brake lines. I bought rubber lines online and i did the steel lines myself. I about a 25' roll of 3/16'' from napa and a kit to bend, cut, and flare the lines. If you dont want to do it yourself you might call the truck shop in Orange county.

800-243-8947
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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So, did you just follow your old lines? Or use some type of schematic to get the correct placement etc?

I can tell some of mine were redone and not run very clean.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Wall Flood
Im going to replace all the brake lines in my 63 F100 4x4 as well as a dual chamber MC.

All of the kits I see online for tubing are for the 2x4. Have any of you run into this?

Perhaps I could just order a 2x4 kit, then get the extra tubing I need from NAPA and finish it off.

Also, I would like to go with disc brakes all around eventually. Does this matter as far as how I route the tubing?

Thanks!
If you are going with discs eventually...unless the lines on your truck are badly rusted, I would not replace them.

Disc brakes require a dual master cylinder and proportioning valve, which means the rubber & steel lines will not be the same as your truck has now.

Why spend the money and have to do the same job twice?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 07:30 AM
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I just did it one line at a time, pulled one off, bent it to as close to the original as i could, then reassembled it. its pretty easy to do, but i had a service pit to stand in, which made life very easy. I'm not going to claim to have a perfect job and there is one part for sure that doesn't look the neatest, but there are no leaks and it works.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
If you are going with discs eventually...unless the lines on your truck are badly rusted, I would not replace them.

Disc brakes require a dual master cylinder and proportioning valve, which means the rubber & steel lines will not be the same as your truck has now.

Why spend the money and have to do the same job twice?
Because I have a leak that is squirting brake fluid about a foot across my frame when I have someone press the brake pedal down!!

That piece orf line needs to be replaced obviously, and when I look at the rest of it, it doesnt make me feel good.

So Id like to replace the entire set of lines, MC, and anything else making it all new. And since Im going with disc brakes Id liike to just go ahead and install the lines and parts I would need when Ido that.

Is this possible? To just replace the lines, MC etc, run the drums for now with all of that, and do the actual disc brake kits later?

Thanks-
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Wall Flood
Because I have a leak that is squirting brake fluid about a foot across my frame when I have someone press the brake pedal down!!

That piece of line needs to be replaced obviously, and when I look at the rest of it, it doesnt make me feel good.

So Id like to replace the entire set of lines, MC, and anything else making it all new. And since Im going with disc brakes Id liike to just go ahead and install the lines and parts I would need when Ido that.

Is this possible? To just replace the lines, MC etc, run the drums for now with all of that, and do the actual disc brake kits later?

Thanks-
Your truck does not have a proportioning valve, as it made its first appearance in 1967 along with the dual master cylinders. The valves used with discs are not the same as used with drums.

The lines that lead from the proportioning valve to the wheel cylinders are not the same without a valve.

This means you will have to replace the lines again when you add discs.

I'd replace the line that's rusted out, wait to replace the others when you make the swap.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 10:39 AM
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Since upgrade pending I would fix the line, or fittings that leak. Replaced brake lines on 65, found local auto parts store carries 10' sections of ridgid tubing; never learned the act of flaring soft tubing, then cut, bend, and flared the fitting. Before flaring suggest running the brake line thru short section of rubber tubing where it passes thru chassis. Posting couple links as refresher in event decide to go with the 'do it yourselfer' route.

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/05...ics/index.html

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_07...ing/index.html
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
I'd replace the line that's rusted out, wait to replace the others when you make the swap.
My fear is if I replace just that one section of tubing then another piece further down the line will fail. I think I should at the least replace all the metal tubing, and the lines that go to the wheels.

Keeping in mind this is a truck that is going to be driven a lot. In city traffic no less.

If I cannot upgrade to the later model MC now because of the proportioning valve then I suppose I will have to leave that for later. I wish I could upgrade to that now, as well as all new tubing, then do the hoses to the wheel cylinders when I do the actual conversion.
 
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